Today started as yesterday finished – walking along the road, but for even further this time – almost 15 km. It was a very quiet road with no shoulder, but very few cars passed us and it was not at all threatening. Walking along the road in the morning is a drag – but not nearly such a drag as walking on the road at the end of the day which is a real drain on depleted resources.
I was very excited today to see my first dog rose of this camino
The views on either side of the road were similar to those we had been enjoying for the last few days, but somehow viewing from the road detracts from the splendour. There was a brief respite of about 4 km on a lovely flat smooth sandy track before returning to the road for our approach into town.
Castuera is a vibrant, sizeable town of more than 6,000 inhabitants. We would have preferred to walk further than 20 km, but I definitely did not fancy a trek of over 40 km to the next accommodstion. There was an option in between at Estación de tren de Quintana 7 km further down the road, but our notes told us that the accommodstion here would only accept parties of 15 or more. However, during our brief morning break I thought I would test this theory and made a phone call to the given number. In my very best spanish I said “good morning, I am a pilgrim travelling with one friend. Can we sleep with you tonight.” Whereby the poor guy on the other end of the phone spluttered “what, who are you”. It became apparent that the printed telephone number was incorrect and I had propositioned a poor old man with an offer he could most definitely refuse!
But his loss was our gain. We arrived at the Ayuntamiento of Castuera before midday and enquired at the desk if they had an Albergue for pilgrims. We were directed to the office of the Policia Local, and the local Bobby and a townhall official took all the details from our credencials and our passports, during which time a very dapper chap walked into the office and introduced himself in perfect English as the mayor of Castuera, welcomed us to his town and chatted to us for a few minutes. There was a prescribed charge of 8€, which I much prefer to the donativo model, and then we were escorted by the policeman to the Albergue.
And now we are in pilgrim heaven. The Castuero albergue opened in September 2014 and is pristine and huge and generous in every way. There are two dormitories, each with two sets of bunks (with crisply laundered sheets), but with room for at least double that. Two large bathrooms with modern fixtures and fittings, a large kitchen/dining area and a courtyard back and front. If you are making this journey, you owe it to yourself to stop in Castuera and enjoy the efforts that the town has provided for pilgrims.
We walked back into town to find some supplies and look for a bar. I purchased provisions for a salad supper and we called into a bar opposite the townhall. George ordered a toastie, but I decided to wait and eat from my supplies. I asked for, and was served, a delicious glass of chilled dry white wine and alongside was given a tapa of sausages and fried potatoes. Wifi was excellent at the bar, and as I was busy catching up with all the comments on my blog from the last few days, in walked señor Alcalde who kindly offered to buy us a drink. I ordered a third glass of wine (they weren’t generous measures) and was given another tasty tapa of tuna and potato salad. So I was sufficiently fed and more than sufficiently wined for the princely sum of 3€. I am loving this town more by the hour! And I will jolly well have to go back later to send off this latest post.
Distance according to wikiloc (my own recording) 20.5 km, Fitbit recorded steps 27,457
Accumulated elevation uphill 109 metres
Accumulated elevation downhill 167 metres
Total distance walked 396.40 km, average 26.42 km per day
Today’s spend – albergue 8€, supplies 6.76€, drinks 4.50€. Spend for the day 19.36€
Fourteen days total spend 386.16€
Trepidatious traveller - camino blog 
Yippee…it sounds like you have found Pilgrims heaven!
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Regarding the long distances you have been doing, I can’t believe that medieval pilgrims did that much. They couldn’t have been as fit as you. I once read that on the route from Le Puy, there were places to stay every 14 kms.
(Written during a thunderstorm in Ponferrada – glad I’m not walking today!)
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Yes, when you consider the clothes and footwear they would have been using, you would imagine that it would have been very tough going. Shame about your weather, we still have it lovely down here. Buen camino!
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Great entry Maggie – sounds like you found a wonderful place to stay, which must be a relief. I’m still laughing about the phone call you made!
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Maggie I just love your blog. You make the Camino Mozarabe sound very attractive. Many of the albergues you have come to seem to be new and very under utilized. Is that because not many pilgrims come that route or is it too long and strenuous? I presume your feet are okay as you haven’t mentioned them today? Have a good nights sleep and Buen Camino
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Hi Magwood,
That is the Camino at it’s best.
Slan Leat,
Sean
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I get so psyched whenever I read your accounts for the day especially how you can communicate in Spanish. You’re an inspiration! Ultreya! Buen camino!
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Great blog
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Sounds like its been a really good stay this time. So glad you’ve enjoyed some dry white wine and good food after a not too arduous day. Hope you enjoy the clean sheets and good luck for tomorrow. xxx
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In 2008 there was an albergue at Campanario: Albergue Rural de la Estacion, the only pilgrim albergue on the Camino Mozarabe. It was in a disused railway station. The tourist office in Castuera telephoned for me to make sure it would be open. 20 euros included dinner, wine and a few beers. I was the only guest. Apart from smelling like wet animals, it was fine.
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It was a fair way out of town AJ. What a trailblazer you were.
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Hi Maggie, i love your blog reading how your doing. It must be hard for you after a day walking and then writing. And all this beautiful foot’s. xxxxx
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i mean foto’s
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What an offer you made to that poor old man in Estación de tren de Quintana! 🙂 The mayor of Castuera definitely sounds like he makes a great effort to welcome people to his town. Well done to him. Lovely photos as always Maggie
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Beautiful. Some of the newer albuerges are sublime, and the best thing is that you can often have them all to yourself! Lucky you, buen camino.
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Again, thank you for your posts. I’m with you in spirit every step–except that I’d probably be a couple hours behind you, I’m not a fast walker! Loving your pictures. Your descriptions of everything along your way are very memorable. How are your feet?
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So happy you found such a delightful stop off place. You SO deserve it; especially those 3 glasses of vino!
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