I updated yeaterday’s entry, so if you want to know how the day went please go back and take a look.
Today started very fresh but a lot less cold than yesterday and I had soon warmed up with a spot of rapid walking. The paths were easy all the way with almost no road walking. The scenery changed from time to time with open pasture, shady oak trees and great swathes of cereal crop.
At one time I spied a peaceful bull (to be honest it could have been a cow, but a bull suited my sentimentality). He was lying under a cork tree and I was instantly reminded of the children’s storybook ‘Ferdinand’ about a bull that was bred to fight in the bullring, but he only wanted to sit under the cork tree and smell the flowers, I tiptoed over the field to get a closer photo, but he saw me coming and stood up before I could get my shot. What a shame. Ferdinand was one of my girls’ (and my) favourite bedtime stories.
The historic city of Salamanca came into view from about ten km away and the spires of the cathedral stood out on the skyline for a couple of hours. By the end of the walk I was in the company of English Paul, French Olivier and German Toby and we walked straight to the Albergue alongside the cathedral, knowing that they wouldn’t allow anyone in until 16:00 but, as luck would have it, the hospitalera was at the door when we arrived at 13:30 and she allowed us to leave our packs inside so that we could take a look around the city unencumbered.
Having seen the city from such a distance it seemed t take forever to reach the centre and it was worth every step. A beautiful place, but unfortunately absolutely full of tourists, with large groups traipsing around after guides. I don’t mind tourists when I am being one, but I don’t like to compete for space when I am walking. I may try to do the roof tour of the cathedral in a while to get a better feel for the layout of the city – update have just done the rooftop and bell tower tour. Fabulous. I scared myself silly having to walk back down an uneven stone spiral stairway – but hey – it was just another step outside my comfort zone.
Unfortunately the massive Plaza Mayor is being set up for some event and the whole of the centre of the square was taken up with hoardings, which rather spoiled the effect. We found a restaurant and I ordered a bacon bocadillo which was absolutely what the doctor ordered and then I purchased some healthy food for a light salad supper in a Carrefour express supermarket, before heading back to check into the Albergue. I grabbed the last bottom bunk. There are only sixteen places here and there are three women amongst thirteen men. But the bonus here is that there are female showers and, low and behold, the floors were not covered in water and I had a lovely hot shower.
I am sad that we are losing one of our ‘family’ tomorrow. French-Canadian Daniel is finishing this leg of his Via de la Plata in Salamanca before returning home. I have enjoyed so much listening to his lovely voice (you know ladies…perfect English spoken with a strong French accent!). But of course that is the way of the camino – pilgrims come and go and hopefully leave a lasting impression.
An update about the Czech guys with the dogs. We saw them in San Pedro last night and they said they were walking on into Salamanca because they had no money for themselves or dogs. I gave them some money for the dogs and they set off to complete a 50 km stretch into the city. We saw them again when we arrived. They were begging on the street and seemed to have collected a few euros on top of their credencials that they had spread out on the pavement. One of the dogs had an injury though, she had hurt her foot during the walk and they were planning a visit to the vet which hopefully would be given for free. It is impossible not to like these guys and admire their determination to compete the camino without any funds.
Distance according to Wikiloc – 24.5 km
Accumulated elevation uphill 103 metres
Accumulated elevation downhill 291 metres
Total distance walked 814.3 km, average 27.1 km per day
Trepidatious traveller - camino blog 
Can’t help but think about the injured dog, do hope they managed to get her treated successfully. Have to say you appear to be getting stronger and stronger Maggie .
P and J x
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The last I knew there had been one visit to the vet with the result that the dog had an infection. One injection given and one due next day. The Czech guy had decided to take the train up north. The dogs were strays in Spain so I am sure they are having a better life than they would have otherwise. The guys were working their way up to the northern coast where they we’re planning to make sand sculptures on the beach and earn enough money to buy a car to continue their travels. I hope they make it, they were nice guys.
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Who was the ‘I Love You’ sky banner for I wonder? I guess we’ll never know! I think your sounding stronger and stronger everyday too and now 2/3rds done…incredible! Buen Camino
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Yes, the poor dog. He didn’t ask to make a pilgrimage. Hope the two guy got help for him.
Haven’t heard much about foot problems and that ‘s terrific. More power to you, Maggie.
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Feet haven even good for a while now Tess – and long may it last!
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Fingers crossed for you. The end is near. ❤
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Maggie the Gods must be smiling on you. Having the Hospitalera awaiting your arrival to receive your bags so you could go off sight-seeing. I’m in awe. Salamanca looks like a gorgeous city. Delighted you were able to have a nice hot shower with no “men’s mess”. Hope the Czech lads make it. Buen camino.
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Salamanca was beautiful but sooo full of tourists.
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I enjoy hearing your comments about the camino community you have known. What would you say is the main difference between this and other Caminos you’ve walked, besides the number of Caminos. Are there opportunities to attend mass on this camino or other peregrino rituals? I’m not very religious myself but might like to attend a mass or two.
Buenos Camino.
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I think them main difference is the very uneven ratio of men to women and the predominance of French (although that has lessened a bit now, day 39). And the lack of places to stop for a coffee. I am coming across more villages now but they are very small with no facilities. I will think harder and report more fully on this aspect after I have finished.
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I think David sent the banner up to cheer you on!
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Maggie, soon you will be in Zamora. Hope you get to check out the albergue. I will be hospitalera there July 15 to 31.
I’ve been enjoying your posts very much,especially your pics. Ultreia Ingrid
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It’s a lovely place Ingrid, I am sure you will enjoy it, there was a very kind french hospitalero at the albergue when I was there and the facilities are very good.
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Another good day Maggie
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Your daily summaries and pictures are lovely. Almost as if one were walking alongside you. Happy trails.
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Looked like a perfect walk today! Yes, I feel sorry for the dogs, too. I feel like one should not have an animal if they can’t even take care of themselves.
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The dogs had been strays Kristina and they were at least receiving a lot of affection.
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Hello Maggie
Thank you for the description of your camino from Malaga to Santiago in 2015.
I have recently followed in your footsteps from Malaga to Salamanca and just returned home to Denmark a week ago. I could recognise much from your blog. Obviously this time of year is much warmer than in May, and I will continue next spring from Salamanca to Santiago when my Spanish has improved and it is less hot. I had to skip three days walking due to heat and took the bus to Merida, where I stayed 3 days and only went out between morning and midday due to temperatures up to 47 degrees! I read in the Ivar camino site, that an English pilgrim died a few days after starting from Seville during this heatwave. That is realy sad !
After Merida I started to meet other pilgrims which I had otherwise not.
I realy realy loved the Extremadura region. People are relaxed and the landscape is overwhelmingly beautiful. It has been a fantastic way of living during 4 weeks just walking along day after day, looking at nature, lighting a candle once in a while in a church for my brother, whom I would have loved to be with me other than in my thoughts
Many greetings Bendt
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Hello Bendt
Your Camino sounds amazing. I couldn’t have walked in that heat. In fact I have only just started wLking again after the very hot summer here in Spain. Mérida is a good place to take a rest.
I felt a bit uncomfortable for a while after reaching Mérida and meeting so many pilgrims, having seen no one but my walking partner since Malaga, but I got used to it soon enough. I loved the Mozárabe and particularly the Sanabres.
Many thanks for your comment and Buen Camino for next year. Keep in touch.
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