Today was a day of two halves with lots of ups and downs. Last night’s village had more running fuentes than I have seen anywhere (there have actually been very few), but this place has them in every street. I should have realised that it had to be coming from somewhere, and it all seemed to be travelling along today’s route.
The first few km’s were downhill along a back road, but the following nearly 3.5 km went in the other direction – very steeply. The track rose 328 metres over 3.5 km, and practically all of the track was running with spring water, sometimes over rocky surfaces, but just as often over spongy mud, resulting in thick squelchy boggy areas. Now, as I may have mentioned, my boots are not performing at 100% water resistance, barely even 20% I would guess, so I picked my way through these areas very carefully with a fair amount of success. I was basically walking up a rocky gully except for the flatfish areas of bog. But the surroundings were beautiful, through woodland with the sun slanting through the branches. And when I reached the top, my feet were dry.
There was then a very sharp descent into the village Vilavello where I stopped for a hot drink after having walked for 12 km.
I have now passed from the province of Zamora in Castilla y León to the province of Ourense in Galicia. The second half of the walk reminded me very much of my first time in Galicia when walking the Camino Frances. The landscape was rugged and beautiful, with huge granite boulders to walk over and around and colourful yellow and purple flowers and the ever present broom. It was stunning and the km’s soon mounted wandering through this vast landscape. The last half hour was spent on the road approaching our destination.
The albergue at La Gudiña is operated by the Xunta of Galicia and my notes tell me there are 48 places, but I have only seen 24, there may be another room but I can’t imagine where. The Xunta albergues provide disposable sheets and pillowcases which are very welcome and the cost here is 6€. Tonight there is a ‘mujeres’ bathroom with one loo, two basins and two showers – all very clean and smart. The kitchen (unusually for Xunta) is fully equipped and pilgrim friendly.
I was very annoyed at myself today for not removing the rubber tips from my walking poles every time I was off road. Towards the end of the day one of the original rubber feet was sucked off deep in a bog. I lost my first one on about day 4 or 5 when I was swishing my pole in some long grass to try and clean it off. One swish too many and up it came minus its foot. I looked long and hard but couldn’t see it. I hate the sound of metal tips clacking on hard surfaces and I was lucky to find a ferreteria where I managed to buy a few replacements – by no means a perfect fit but just about ok with a lot of pushing and shoving. I have already worn through one of these and had to replace it and now I have to use the last one – and make sure I remove them whenever I am off road.
Distance according to Wikiloc – 25.5 km
Accumulated elevation uphill 506 metres
Accumulated elevation downhill 549 metres
Total distance walked 1,110.3 km, average 27.1 km per day
Trepidatious traveller - camino blog 
Klick klick klick 😲 Maggie, today’s pictures are Your best yet.
LikeLike
Why thank you kind Sir!
LikeLike
Maggie well done on keeping your feet dry. I don’t like the sound of all this elevation but it doesn’t seem to take a feather out of you. Shame about the tips for your walking poles but you should be okay with one, until you are finished. Hope you have a pleasant evening. Can you drink the water that comes from the fuentes? Buen camino
LikeLiked by 1 person
Mostly they have a sign to say the water is not treated. I know the fountains at home that the locals drink from and I am happy to follow suit, but would be a bit wary about an unknown source. On this occasion though I just followed the example of the young guy before me and it tasted lovely and was ice cold.
LikeLike
You certainly seemed to have picked the right time for the wild flowers, love the many pictures! I am also enjoying your pictures of the Fuentes, When I did the Frances, I believe I snapped every one! Enjoy each moment.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thanks Bonnie. I am trying to restrict my flower photos to new examples, but as they are getting less and less, I feel bound to provide a few repeats. I love them all, but have a few special favourites. At the moment it is the tiny heathers that give so much colour – just beautiful.
LikeLiked by 1 person
I’m keen to see your journey on a map, Maggie. Maybe when you get home….
LikeLike
Hi Nancy, David has sent some images of the route to a few people. I will ask him to send you a copy.
LikeLike
My friend Michael lost his pole tip on a street drain grate in Pamplona. Luckily I had a spare to give him. The drain ate it up. At the time I thought it was funny. I don’t like the clacking noise either. Surprise anyone would want to clack clack clack down the street.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Some people seem oblivious to it Kristina, but I doubt the residents of the tiny villages feel the same at 06:30!
LikeLike
Oh, how beautiful! I’ve elevated you to one of my heroine’s. Your pictures, as I’ve told you before, tell such a beautiful story, then you conjoin the pictures with such descriptive narrative. Thank you!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Forgot to offer you—Buen Camino!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thanks for so many pictures this time. The walk today looks treacherous. Glad you make it without a major spill. ❤ ❤
LikeLiked by 1 person
I’m with you on the pole tips! A couple of years ago on the Arles Camino I encountered a Nordic Walking class just outside Montpellier, about twenty of them without a single rubber tip. The noise was dreadful and now I always have a spare handy.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Wow, that must have been awful. I can’t understand that some people don’t recognise how annoying they are being.
LikeLike
Hi Maggie,
I know only too well how disconcerting that metronomic tapping can become when bare pole meets raw road. I had the same predicament on last year’s Camino Portuguese, no success at any commercial outlet, until one morning at breakfast the delightful Kiwi Margaret reached across the table and gifted me a spare pair which were surplus to her requirements – that lovely spirit of pilgrim generosity. As always it’s a daily delight to begin with your latest entry, enjoy the remainder of the way! Brian
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thanks Brian. I knew my pacerpole tips wouldn’t wear out, so didn’t take my spares. I didn’t think about losing them as this hasn’t happened before. I shall know better next time! I am now using one that is too small and has to be ‘screwed’ on and off, and one that is too big and has to be stuffed with a bit of paper. I am very anxious about losing them and am forever putting them on and off. But at least I am keeping my conscience clear and not upsetting the locals.
LikeLike
Love your blog am starting the same in August,done the Camino Frances 4 times thought I needed a change, Buen Camino..Tony…
Sent from my iPad
LikeLike
Hi Tony. Glad to hear of someone else walking the Mozarabe. Are you starting from Málaga? You will definitely feel the difference from the camino Frances. Let me know if I can help in any way.
Buen camino!
LikeLike
Beautiful pics, especially the flowers. 🙂
LikeLiked by 1 person
Lovely pics
LikeLiked by 1 person
Fantastic journey,David can I be cheeky and ask you for a copy of the route Maggie is taking,my email address is …..
LikeLike
I have removed your email address from the public domain as I am fairly sure David has now sent you the info.
LikeLike