Distance 25.5 km
Accumulated elevation uphill 737m
Accumulated elevation downhill 755m
Well, they said it would be hard and they weren’t kidding. Did you see that elevation profile? It was an absolute killer, although to be honest the second half seemed just as difficult although it pales to insignificance when viewed as above.
I have only myself to blame because there were many options on this stage where I could have chosen a less trying route. But I went for the ‘alpinista’ track first of all, and then opted to stick with the GR121 trail which is a little longer and harder, but hugs the coastline. The image above shows just 23.3 kms, but I forgot to turn on the GPS until I thought about how impressed you would all be when you saw it, and by that time I had already walked for 3 km.
There were a lot of Shetland type ponies around, some with very newborn foals who were still working out how to use their legs.
It was certainly hard, but absolutely beautiful, walking through woodland, heathland and rocky tracks. In fact the vast majority of this stage was over rocky tracks which are quite hard on the feet, metaphorically and literally.
As you can see from the elevation profile I dropped back down to sea level at Pasajes de San Juan. It seems to be a busy working port. Two huge container ships motored past as I walked through, one with the legend ‘Airbus on board’.
I stopped for a beer and looked at the menu, but the menu del dia was 12.90 euros so I didn’t bother to eat. A small beer was 2.30 euros – outrageous. I then had to cross the estuary by ferry (0.70 euros) together with some giggling schoolgirls and the postman complete with his letter buggy. I walked to the other side of the inlet and stopped to eat some cheese and jamon that I had bought last night and then continued on my way, having to climb a ridiculous amount of very steep steps that seemed to go on forever.
I have seen some flowers today that are new to me – the pretty yellow trumpet is very low growing on heathland, the pink stag horn was in a hedgerow and the white flower was quite small with leaves like a peony.
But the weather was kind to me. It was dull, and cloudy, but it did not rain. After studying the forecasts for the last few days I was convinced I would be walking through a storm. This stage would have been dangerous in wet weather. The smooth rock that I was walking over most of the day would have been very slippery if wet. But all was well and here I am in San Sebastián.
I opted to stay at a hostal as the albergue is quite a way out of the city and I wanted to have a mooch around this lovely place. I was a bit miffed when I arrived at the Urban House hostal (22.40 euros) when I was told that I would be staying in another property a block away (a good five minute walk) as there is a large group staying at the main place. But it has turned out well because so far I am the only person here, although another woman is due to arrive at some point. I am in a nice four bed room with balcony overlooking a pretty square and bars on either side.
Tomorrow is forecast to rain all day – oh well, let’s hope they got it wrong again!
Trepidatious traveller - camino blog 
Wonderful photos and deep respect for doing such a hard first stage x
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It was certainly a toughie
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I love your post! I’ll keep paying attention to this one because is in my bucket list.
Buen Camino!!!!
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I hope it’s useful for you Jeannette – it’s been a beautiful start
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Great Post
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Many thanks
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welcome
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Bravo… I love your blog! The Norte is on my wish list too…. maybe 2018?!
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I hope there will be some useful info for you
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Beautiful photos Maggie. I remember that first day!
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Tough one, wasn’t it! Am enjoying your blog also x
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Hi Maggie, Ingrid here… looking forward to your journey… especially since I am not walking any Caminos this year. Next year… looking at part of the Norte with a side adventure into the Picos de Europa… and then finishing on the Primitivo… keeping a close eye on you.
Buen Camino, Light and Love…
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Thanks Ingrid. I’m sure I must have a year without a Camino some time in the future…
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From “Poor George”
Go Maggie go!
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Go Super George too. How are you getting on?
Buen Camino!
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Hi Maggie, Your posts always give me so much pleasure, and as my Camino for this year has gone sideways, I will be eagerly looking forward to your updates.
Stay safe, enjoy,
Bonnie
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Sorry to hear your Camino won’t be taking place. But it will always be here for another year.
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I love your posts with your honesty and direct comments. Until you I thought I was the only one who gets nervous before starting out. And your descriptions and photos are always evocative.
Buen Camino. Val
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Thanks Val. Yes, I’m always a bit (very) anxious. But now I’m here I’m feeling very laid back
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I remember that day well. I got so lost in Irún I nearly gave up on the whole thing. Glad you had a good first day on the Camino. Bueno Camino and enjoy Orio for me. (My profile pic is from that second day near Orio 🙂 )
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I’ve just been talking to a pilgrim who was wandering around Irun for three hours yesterday. Starting from the municipal albergue it’s very easy.
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I started from the Puente de Santiago. I missed so many arrows that first day.
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Did you start your Camino Norte from the municipal alburque in Irun? Thank you. I will be starting on May 12th by myself.
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Yes, I did Justine. The albergue was very good.
Buen Camino!
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Buen Camino to you Maggie. Safe travels and thank you.
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Wow, That elevation looks like a killer indeed, I thought the climb to Orrisson was tough, but this is in another league completly. Well done on mastering it. Ultrea!
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Very hard, but not nearly so long as the napolean route. As soon as it’s over you can forget the pain (almost!)
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Impressive start to your journey. As always great story telling and wonderful photos. I am feeling exhausted can we go for a more gentler elevation tomorrow? xx
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It was a lot gentler Maggie, but it felt just as hard on my poor old body.
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Best wishes to you! I admire your strength and perseverance! An impressive first day, indeed.
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Thanks Christine. I’m hoping there won’t be any more days quite that hard.
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So glad I found your web site! I recently finished the Camino Del Norte and look forward to reliving it through your posts. You discription was very accurate!
Buen Camino!
rba
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Glad it’s true to your memory. Thanks for your company
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🙂
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Shame – how the rain sucks when all we want to do is enjoy the paths with good soothing sun – hope you have a great day and stay safe. Today we are in Córdoba and will be setting off soon – millions of people here for some festival – lovely photos thanks 😃🌞🌻😘
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It’s the patio festival. I’ve always wanted to go, but am on Camino every year. Can’t believe the progress you’re making. It seems you are covering the ground faster than we did last year xxx
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Hooley Dooley Maggie! That elevation profile! How were your knees and calves!!! It sounds as though you had a wonderful first day though – such beautiful photos – I particularly loved the ones of the ponies and the butterfly.
I hope that you had a restful night’s sleep and that the weather for today will be kind, and not as forecast.
Take joy in every step –
Camino hugs –
Jenny xxx
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Knees and calves were OK, but the lungs were completely buggered! Ankles are a bit wobbly though – glad I’m wearing solid boots. xx
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I’m not surprised that your lungs were buggered Maggie! I think perhaps you need to have a very small, lightweight flask of a suitable adult beverage in your pack – so restorative to the lungs when sipped slowly as needed!
Take joy in every step –
Jenny xxx
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I’v never tried that one Jenny…now could I manage the extra weight??
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Hopefully, your hard first day will make the rest seem easy! Many pilgrims walking alongside?
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Maggie, as usual I am in awe of you. Well done on a wonderful first day. Beautiful photos and I’m delighted the rain held off. Buen Camino xx
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Wonderful photos Maggie. I wish I was as fit as you. Good luck with this trip. I shall be following you every day xx
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Hi! I will be starting on this route from San Sebastian in May…hope to make use of all of your information! Thank you.
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I hope I can provide you with some useful info. Buen Camino for May!
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Only 38 days left!! xx
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This is awesome thank you so much for sharing ; this may be my next Camino and very little Info out there. Please continue and Buen Camino
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Are you a member of the Camino forum? You can find loads of info. Take a look at my resources page if you don’t know about it – there is a link.
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Hi Maggie, I’ll be following you as you post. In comparison to the first day on the Frances, how does that first climb rate? Tougher? I hope you get good weather after Ribedeo as I would love to see how you get on during your walk to Ferrol!
David
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A tougher ascent than the Napolean, but oh so much shorter. I just had to stop every few paces and catch my breath and turn around and enjoy the view. I hope I can giv you some useful info re Ribadeo to Ferrol – Vamos a ver!
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Will be following because I plan to do this route 2018.
I’m leaving Friday to do the Portugal route👣
Buen Camino😎
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Bom Caminho to you Sandra. I hope you have a wonderful Camino.
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Well written, I’ll befollowing your progress eagerly. I’m walking the Pyrenees Haute Route to Hendaye in the summer, then it will be across the river to Irun and Camino’s del Norte and Primitivo to SdC
Buen Camino
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Wow, that sounds like s very long hike – would love t hear more about it. Buen Camino!
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I am glad I ran across your blog link! I was scheduled to start in San Sebastián Saturday (yesterday) morning for a leisurely walk to Santander. But I am at home, on ice, with a bulging disc and pinched nerve instead. I really love your writing and photos! I hope to get there eventually!
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Ouch! So sorry to hear that. I hope it improves very soon.
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Really enjoying your Camino so far-hope you are too!
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How impressive is your first day!!! My husband and I are planning to do this route next year or the year after. Will be following your posts. And your photographs – wonderful. Buen Camino!
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This was the most helpful article I’ve read about Camino del Norte. I’m curious if it’s just steep or if it’s also challenging to walk? We’re considering this in summer of 2017. I look forward to more of your experience!
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I’m certainly finding it challenging, but perhaps someone fitter than me would cope better.
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Good morning magwood! Thank you for your blog. I love it! I plan to walk the Camino August 12, 2016. I am so excited! I am walking alone but I know I won’t be alone…. How long did it take you to cross the mountains? My accommodation are in Roncesvalles. Been Camino!
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Roncesvalles is on the Camino Frances. As far as I remember we left St Jean at around 8:30 and arrived st Roncesvalles around 17:00. A tough day, but beautiful. Buen Camino!
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great description of the first day ..lovely
pictures … thanks for sharing. ..
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Hi, I just found your blog. I’m presently walking the Camino Norte behind you. I left San Sebastián today after walking the Alpine Route on Monday. I had a constant drizzle almost all the way, which was ok, however, I’d prefer not having rain gear on while making those climbs. I’m in Zarautz tonight. Where are you now? Great photos! I saw lots of potentially good photo possibilities, but couldn’t discipline myself to extract my camera from my pack. And surprisingly, the wet rocks weren’t slippery.
-Robert
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Oh wow, great to hear from you. Glad you didn’t don’t have any issues with the wet terrain – you are probably more sure footed than me.
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Hi Maggie – I hope you enjoy your Camino. Reading your post and seeing your photos reminded me of walking the same route with my 14 year old son 4 years ago. I hope that you enjoy your experience- Joan
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That must have been a challenge for a youngster Joan. How did he cope?
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Thanks for the link on the camino.uk site, Maggie. I’ve been wanting to do the route you are on, but opted to go back to the Frances again next month. Will be following to see how you’re getting along.
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It is very nice to read what I have got coming ahead me and my friends in 2 weeks time. Are there many pilgrims on the walk?
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Wonderful to read your blog about Camino Norte – I am considering doing this but coming from New Zealand so it’s a toss up whether to do thus or Francais for a second time. Are you meeting many fellow travellers?
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Hi Karen, yes there are plenty of other pilgrims walking. Mostly French and Germans, although the French all seem to have chosen to walk the Primitivo.
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Thank you so much for this blog.
If you compare to the other Camino’s- how well is it marked with arrows? If notwell marked, was a guide enough or did u need any GPS?
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It is mostly very well signed. I went wrong a couple of times, but only because I really wasn’t paying attention. I do need to concentrate on looking for the arrows – but there are plenty marking the way. I tend only to use a guide if I am unsure about the route.
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Hi!
What wonderful pictures. What a great adventure…
My husband and I walked the Frances in 2010 as our honeymoon. It was such a life-changing, wonderful, warm experience.
We now have three kids, who’ll be five (great hiker), four and two next Summer. We’d love to walk part of the Norte with them in the Summer of 2017 (for about two weeks). Of course, this means that we won’t be able to do more than 10 km a day.
Do you think this is possible, given the greater distance between towns with hotels, refugios etc.? And what’s the one bit of the trip you would suggest? (Ideally with quite some coastline)
Thanks a million for your advice!
Eline
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Hi Eline, wow you’re brave. I find it hard enough looking after myself, let alone three children!
On the Norte you have the great advantage of the Feve train that runs all along the coast. You could make the Feve part of your adventure so that you can walk whatever distance the children can manage and then hop on the train to the destination of your choice. There are some lovely beaches that the children will enjoy. The Norte departs from the coast quite often and there is a lot of road walking which would be a nightmare with little ones. You might find it preferable to take the GR routes where appropriate.
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I have just discovered your site and find it very inspiring . I love your Fotos and text.I have walked the camino Francese from my hometown in Switzerland to Santjago in three stages a couple of years ago.Last year I walked the camino Portuguese from Porto to Santjago and on to Finisterre and Muxia.I decided to take more time and enjoy some Sightseeing and places along the way.this spring I walked part of the Tolosana from Arles to Toulouse and am hoping to finish this one in September or next spring.At first I was feeling an odity as my friends could not understand me doing anything like that ,despite the fact that I have been hiking all over Europe and in the U.S. A. and Canada as well.When I joined a Swiss organisation and found other crazy people.As I am getting older,nearly 73 years old, I wonder what I can do in the near future.I would love to do the camino del Northe or the via della plata.
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Hi Margrit, many thanks for your kind comments. How long was your Camino from home? It must have been an amazing experience. If I’m still walking caminos in ten years, when I’m your age, I shall be very happy.
It is good to be part of a community of like-minded people who ‘get’ your obsession. I find the Camino forums provide that support system for me.
Buen Camino for your next one!
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I am thinking of walking the Norte next year.
I walked the frances in April and it was perfect. I met a girl that was walking the Norte but she said there was so few people and she found it very lonely.
I am a solo traveller and really like the albergue family. When would you suggest would be better to go? May June or July??? Ideally I would like to be staying with at least 20 others each night.
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Hi Kelly. Personally I prefer to walk in early spring, largely because I love the landscape so much at that time of year, and also to avoid excessive heat. When I walked the Norte I started the last week of April, there were about 10 or so pilgrims in the albergue in Irun that first night, but I met plenty of other people along the way that hadn’t been there that night. Be aware that some albergues don’t open until after 1 May and on a couple of occasions I had to stay in private accommodation which blew my budget a bit. I walked similar stages with probably around 8 others, and that really is sufficient to feel a ‘family’ atmosphere. Sometimes I walked different stages and was out of step with the others for a day or two and pretty much on my own. But we tended to meet up again along the way. I stuck with the Norte route, rather than peeling off onto the Primitivo and from that point on I was pretty much on my own because all my lovely friends were heading off in the other direction. But after a moment of sadness, I looked upon it as a whole new adventure and went on to meet others who I shared time with.
The Primitivo is very busy compared to the Norte (I walked the Primitivo the following year) and you will find it hard to be alone on that route.
So to answer your question, I would walk May/June and not worry at all about how many others will be walking – there will be sufficient other pilgrims for you to bond with.
Buen camino!
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