Total distance 72.9
Daily average 24.3
Today’s accumulated uphill elevation 462m
Today’s accumulated downhill elevation 514m
Last evening I didn’t move from the albergue. Partly because it was reported that there were no shops open to buy groceries, and then it started to pour with rain. So I ordered a meal from the hospitalera, not the greatest lasagne I have tasted, but it did the job.
I then spent the evening responding to all the really lovely comments I have received. I know I won’t have time to do this very often, but please don’t let that stop you commenting – I do read them all and they are very morale-boosting. I will try to answer any questions that are asked, and if appropriate will do this in a blog post in case anyone else is interested in the matter.
The boots that were meant to be left at home, but stepped up to the mark at the last moment, have been performing very well. No blisters (yet), and I have been very thankful for the ankle support over all these rocky paths. They do feel a little short in the toe box but it hasn’t caused any issues so far and I’ve walked down some very steep descents.
Today’s walk began with one of these – a very steep downward stone path, and I picked my way down it very carefully. It had rained a lot during the night and was still looking threatening when I left, so I donned my shoulder cape and my newly made gaiters. I made these the day before I left home, feeling sure they would be needed.
Today was my first day of mud – plenty of it and very slippery, so it was a slow journey. I was walking alone for a few hours and then suddenly there was a wave of 7 or 8 pilgrims all coming from nowhere, including a guy on a horse. I was very happy to let them pass by, although I had a chat with a couple of French guys and stopped at a bar and had lunch with them. Beer again, and a very small roll filled with chorizo omelette that was delicious (so good I bought another one to take away). Five euros for the lot.
Later I saw the guy on a horse again, another Frenchman I think. He had just been meeting with a guy driving a horse box to give his four-legged friend some lunch before setting off again. We chatted a little in Spanish – he had ridden along the Via de la Plata last year
As it happened it didn’t actually rain for hours, although there was a short-lived heavy shower around mid-day. And that was it.
There was a lot of road walking today – most of it very pleasant and, to be honest, a relief from the slippery mud and uncomfortable stones of the tracks. A forum member is walking a day ahead of me and recommended that I take the high track on the GR 121 at Elorriaga. He said it was the most spectacular route he has taken on Camino. But alas I missed the turn off so remained on the Camino.
I have taken a short stage into Deba, where it is necessary to call into the information office to register and get a key to the municipal albergue. I was the only one to have done this before they closed at 14:00, and then the hospitalera doesn’t turn up at the albergue until 16:00. So I was allocated bed number one, and was here on my own for two hours. Bliss.
It is a large albergue, situated in an old railway station building, above the waiting room. I hope the trains don’t run all night! Fifty-six beds in rooms of 8, split over two floors. The floor I am on has a bathroom with two wc’s and two showers, and is very clean and well presented, with a large common room and washing & drying facilities, but no kitchen. Cost 5 euros.
I also managed to find a grocery store in the town centre just before it shut for the day (Sunday). So I was able to buy some supplies for tonight and tomorrow – Jamon, cheese, bread roll, tomatoes, mandarins, chocolate and a bottle of cava, all for a fraction over 8 euros. So now I am feeling more comfortable about the prices in northern Spain.
The sun is now shining and drying my washing. I had thought that my gaiters were self-cleaning because I couldn’t see any dirt on them, but it turns out the thick mud had dried to the same colour as the cloth they are made of. I didn’t see much point in washing them as they will only ever be used in muddy conditions. I made them from the same water resistant fabric that I made my hiking skirt. They fasten with Velcro at the back and are kept in place with my knee braces, which are proving to be very versatile items, although they have never been used for their intended purpose.
The other pilgrims at the albergue are all youngsters as far as I know. Alan and Alex who I met in Irun, a lovely American girl Nicky who was at the albergue last night and I’m not sure who else, but I counted ten pairs of boots – plus mine.
Trepidatious traveller - camino blog 
Great Post
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Dead sexy those gaiters Maggie!
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Aren’t they just? No such thing as vanity on the Camino!
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Maggie,
I so look forward to your posts. I recently, April 10 2016, completed the Camino Del Norte, and look forward every day to re-living it through your beautiful pics and comments.
Bueno Camino!
rba
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I hope the posts live up to the reality that you experinced.
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Yes I did withot luck! I keep trying. Which one is the best t for you the coastal or the interior?
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I would take the coastal from Porto. I didn’t due to bad weather, but it was an awful stage – I couldn’t recommend it.
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I enjoy reading your post, I need your encouragement since I’m getting ready to start soon the Camino Portuguess ( coastal) on my own and I’m very nervous, I want to find people on the camino not to feel alone. Buen camino Maggie and still waiting to know what kind of camara do you have and it’s size. Thank a lot for your amazing information. Buen camino!
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Have you tried looking for s walking partner? There are lots of forums and groups where you could ask. If you need info, ask me and I will give you some links. Although I am sure there will be plenty pilgrims walking the route.
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good stuff Maggie.Joan and me enjoying the pics and text.We head to Lisbon tomorrow and start walking our camino on Weds.Stay healthy
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A great Bom Caminho to you Alan and Joan. I hope you have a wonderful time.
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Buen Camino!
I’ll be interested to read your comments on Deba. I have my own opinion about the town. Good luck tomorrow on the Deba-Markina trail! Hope we can meet up when you reach Bilbao, la capital del mundo.
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Gorgeous flowers – Gorgeous pictures! Thank you—Buen Camino!
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you have inspired me to try the London Marathon
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Not sure how that happened! I love watching the London marathon on TV – so inspiring. I hope you make it.
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Great information, keep up with the posting! I will be doing starting from Irun on June 8th, so I am taking notes on your experience.
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Buen Camino Maggie
i walked the Camino Francais over five years finishing in 2014. Thinking about another stretch of five days somewhere but not sure where to start. Best of luck.
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Hello Maggie, I love your posts and I look forward to hearing about each day on your Camino. Can you tell me how you generate the elevation and distance graphics?
Inspiration plus!
Buen Camino
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Well done Maggie! Those elevation profiles look very dramatic. I’m enjoying walking with you, albeit from the comfort of home. Looking forward to the next instalment. I like your details such as prices, standards and facilities at the albergues. Viv 🙂
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Hello Maggie, I love your posts and I look forward to hearing about each day on your Camino. Can you tell me how you generate the elevation and distance graphics?
Inspiration plus!
Buen Camino
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Hi my friend! Just to let you know I read you every night! You lucky girl, only one rain-shower untill now….keep going and enjoying ! Big hug. Renate
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Hi Maggie! Following your journey and so excited to read your posts everyday! I was wondering if you could tell me what kind of GPS you’re using. I like that it tells you accumulated downhill/uphill elevation and gives a graph also. Thank you and take good care in your walking!!! Nadine
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Hi Maggie. Love your posts. I look forward to them every day. What kind of GPS device are you using? Love the elevation profiles. Wishing you all the best on this Camino. Stay strong and healthy! Nadine
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You’re doing wonderfully Maggie. Your graphs really speak to the elevation involved in this Camino. Thank you for posting such detailed information – it’s very helpful to those of us who will walk in your footsteps this year (my daughter in law and myself). I curious about your comment about your boots. Are they old boots for new boots? I plan to walk my second Camino in the same boots I walked the Portuguese Camino last year.as they still seem fine. How many treks do you get out of your boots?
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Thank you so much for sharing your journey. Just a few more weeks until I start mine!
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I am interested to hear how the gaiters are, for keeping rain water off the boots. Weren’t those knees braces used last year to hold your crocs on, when you had to ford some streams? Or was it something else? Maybe I should try to a gaiter arrangement that can be attached to the pants. When we perfect the equipment, we’ll have to stop walking, but that won’t happen any time soon! (P.S. I have just slept the first night in my own bed in over 2 months. What a treat!)
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The gaiters haven’t really had much of s test yet, the rain was very little, but they certainly kept the mud off my pants.
I know that feeling of sleeping in your own bed for the first time in weeks. And sll the other conveniences (luxuries) of being st home that we normally take so much for granted.
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Those knee braces are very versatile! Although they haven’t been used for their intended purpose yet. I think the gaiters would work well, but haven’t really put them to the test yet.
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Once again Maggie I’m struck by how green and beautiful the scenery is in the north compared with Andalusia. I’m enjoying the blog very much and as someone else said, love all the details of the cost of things and what you are eating. Did you drink the whole bottle of Cava? I only ask as someone who gets bad headaches from Cava. Buen Camino xx
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Love the gaiters!
You walk farther than I would care to on certain days but I understand the comment about not wanting to eat in a noisy bar immediately following thebsolitude of the trail. I like the tips about lodging, taking about a more scenic route and the slippery rocky path. Are you using Nordic poles?
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I’m so happy I’ve found your blog right now!
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Watching you all the way Maggie, love the accessories. Stay safe x
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Thanks for your inspiring words! I just completed the CP coastal route. It is beautiful. My first walk to Santiago.
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Hello Alan. I may have to return to the Portuguese route and walk the coastal path. So glad you enjoyed your first camino. I’m sure you’ll be back.
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