Sorry for the prolonged silence. I was hoping that if I left it a few days I might have some positive news.
So, to recap, on Wednesday my right leg gave out part way through the stage. I battled pain and inability to walk through sheer determination and a good deal of stupidity. But in reality there wasn’t really much option. On a national holiday (Mayday) and passing through only villages with one or two inhabitants, my only options were to flag down one of the very few passing cars or magic a taxi number from somewhere.
Once I stopped walking I just couldn’t put any weight on my leg, even with the help of my walking poles. Luckily we stopped in a larger village where an extremely kind man immediately offered to drive us back to where we had started that morning, the only town in the area of size and with an emergency department. The doctor there upon examination decided that it was a hip problem and gave me an injection of Metamizole (which is banned in the UK and other northern European countries as it has been known to cause death, although apparently harmless to Spanish). I was told to rest for a day or two before starting to walk again.
We returned to the Hostal Moreno and I somehow managed to walk the long corridor to our allocated room. I needed to visit the bathroom during the night and it took me about fifteen minutes to walk a few metres. I returned to bed on my hands and knees. In the morning there was no improvement and I accepted my partner’s offer to drive the 700 kms to collect me.
I only left my bed to visit the bathroom and on subsequent trips I knelt on a blanket and pulled myself along with my hands. By the time I departed, that must have been the cleanest stretch of floor and the dirtiest blanket in the hostal. It was also the most undignified thing I have ever done whilst sober! But it worked.
Nina was my guardian angel. Shopping for goodies, bringing me an occasional glass of wine, keeping my spirits up and just being there.
David duly arrived on Thursday evening and we left on Friday morning. An eight hour journey where I didn’t dare drink more than a few sips of water because there was no way that I could use a public toilet en route. Luckily I have a cast iron bladder and didn’t suffer.
We passed signs for so many places that I had walked through on this and other caminos…Cuenca, Madrid, Segovia, Córdoba, Almería, Granada, Málaga. We rushed past the spectacular landscape that I had experienced at a much more leisurely pace. David took a couple of coffee breaks whilst I stayed in the car, but he brought me a good selection of snacks for the journey. I did just stand, hanging onto the car door during one break, just to give my backside a change of scenery!
We drove immediately to the emergency department of the hospital nearest to home, where I received the best possible service, taken from the car in a wheelchair, passing through the triage system before I even had the chance to use the loo, seen by a doctor within fifteen minutes, then whizzed off to the x-ray department, administered another injection to my posterior and after about a half hour wait a return visit to the doctor. This time I was told that I was suffering from an inflamed ligament / tendonitis with no fracture to the hip. This made much more sense to me as I couldn’t see how an issue with my hip could come on so suddenly. I was in and out of the hospital within 1.5 hours, made a quick stop down the road to buy some crutches and was then on the last leg home. Just a quick stop to collect Roly, our dog, from our friends who had happily agreed to look after him for the night, and then finally sitting in my own chair.
Yesterday (Saturday) I couldn’t detect any improvement at all, but today there is a slight change in the right direction. And so I am confident that within a few days I will be moving around more easily.
An inflamed ligament doesn’t sound as though it should have caused me such a problem, but I think I have a fairly high pain threshold, and I don’t think I have been making a fuss about nothing.
So my camino is over for this year. Nina decided to catch a bus to Burgos and then to León and she is now walking along the Camino Frances. We had a very emotional parting. I could not have hoped for a better walking partner and friend. She is a wise and caring woman with a great sense of fun. I am sure I will be privileged to walk with her again before too long.
David is quite pleased to have me home early, Roly made a big fuss of me for about five minutes and I have hardly seen him since (he chooses to be an outside dog), but the cat has jumped on my lap at every opportunity (and as I am spending 90% of my time sitting of lying, there is a lot of opportunity!)
Rather than be too upset about cutting my camino short, I appreciate that I have walked six prior caminos with no issues other than the odd blister. How lucky is that? And I am truly appreciative of the care and loyalty from Nina and David, and although it was a long journey home, how much more difficult it would have been if I had to return to another country, or if I had been walking alone. I am one lucky and grateful pilgrim.
Thanks to everyone who has expressed concern, either through the blog or via private message. I so appreciate your care. And also for the many messages of support I received along the way. I love to read your comments even though I don’t have time to respond directly.
THANK YOU to one and all.
Edit: after getting around on crutches for a few weeks, I felt progress with my hip was not as it should be. Long story short, I organised an MRI and was aghast to be told that I had a stress fracture through the right femoral head (ball joint of hip). Apparently such a fine fracture with no displacement of bone does not show on an x-ray.
Trepidatious traveller - camino blog 
Ah so happy that you are back home and on the mend. Thank you so much for your wonderful blog, I looked forward to it every night, I have missed. Take care of yourself, and I will look forward to your next adventure, thanks again, kind regards, from beautiful Cork, Ireland 😎😎
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I am glad to hear that you are resting at home comfortably. Wishing you a full recovery…body and spirit renewed..
I have followed your blog for many years. .I admire your strength and I walked vicariously through your blog while I was enduring cancer treatments in 2017…I hope to walk another camino in the future. ..I have walked the Camino Frances in 2012 and the Portuguese from Lisbon in 2015…
It is your strength and stamina that admire. We have a pilgrims group here in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan. ..Canada and I have recommended your blog as a place of inspiration and beautiful pictures. ..thank you for sharing your Caminos. .
Wishing you love & light
Darlene
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Oh Magwood, what a scary sudden ending to your Camino. I have been in awe of the distances you guys were clocking up and they are well over what I can cope with these days ( started Camino walking in 2006).
It is amazing, how suddenly it is all over.
I remember, sustaining a metatarsal fracture and lysfrancs sprain ( diagnosed much later) on day 1 of the Geneva route to Le Puy. Apart from hitchhiking for a couple of segments I hobbled the 350 km to Le Puy with dogged determination.
On the last day, I had to stop every hour and when I got to Le Puy, I couldn’t walk any more.
It is amazing what one can tolerate if one decides!
Anyway, I wish you a speedy recovery and may you pace yourself and tune in to early warning signals from your body. Sounds like you could have done with more nutritious food on this walk too!
I recommend the Geneva and Le Puy routes , if you feel like a change. I am off to walk the Le Puy for the 3rd time at the end of May. For me it has the perfect mix of variable, lush and ever changing nature, only a couple of small, but pretty towns to negotiate, charming villages, abundant range of athmospheric accommodation and good pilgrim infrastructure. Then there are the gastronomic delights….
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May your healing continue. What a surprise ending for you, such an indefatigable walker. I was walking my own bit of the Via Francigena during most of your walk, with almost no internet or time to read, so I missed most of your journey this time, but I will revisit. Please send updates up the road (metaphorical).
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How was the Francigena?
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I’ve been thinking of you so much and wondering if you were doing ok. Those last few days sound very difficult but Yeah! for Nina! I am sad to hear that you had to return home but I’m glad you’re safe and on the mend! Having had to do the same myself, it’s so sad to call an end to a walk… but there is always the next one… and the next one! Enjoy your recovery in comfort. Take Care Maggie ❤ xx
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Well, it’s sad but with your wonderful positive attitude it seems you have come to terms with this setback very quickly. How quickly the tendonitis become so debilitating. A lesson to us all. Best wishes for a speedy recovery. They may be time for a little one later in the year. Regards Alan
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Glad to hear you’re safe back home and enjoying the best of care. I hope your recovery is quick and complete. From the sound of it, this was a tough camino from the start. Hats off to you and Nina for taking us all with you. I hope we were not a burden, even virtually.
Best wishes
Ian
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Glad your home and getting better. Sorry you cut your Camino short. Will miss your daily report and pictures which I really enjoy. Heal fast. God bless.
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Hello Maggie,
We are so sorry to hear your news. It is not the end of the Camino you hoped for, but now you are safe, which is the main thing.
We wish you a speedy and complete recovery
Jean and Michael
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Even the best-laid schemes go awry, Maggie. Sounds like you are being well cared for. – you deserve the rest x
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I’m so sorry to hear about your injury, but sounds like you’re in good hands. I understand your disappointment, as I’m grounded right now with a painful Morton’s Neuroma – but I expect both of us will be walking again soon! Sending love and healing thoughts
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Thank you for the update Maggie – we have been wondering, having followed your journey thus far. Sorry your Camino journey has come to an end for the time being, but glad you are home safe. Wishing you a speedy recovery – thank you for the wonderful posts and photos – looking forward to following you the next time xx
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I’m truly sorry to hear about the sudden end to your Camino. You have been an inspiration to me, though in 5 Caminos I can never hope to walk your distances. I am now in Sahagún having walked (only) from Frómista, and battling a meniscus tear in my knee which occurred before I left home. The cortisone injection I had has worn off, so I’m only doing 10 km days. But the weather is lovely and the Romanesque churches make it all worthwhile.
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Thanks Mags for filling us in the last leg of your camino – what a horrible end but you still have wonderful memories of this special walk. I can’t tell you how saddened I was to hear that you had to abandon your walk but I am so grateful that there are no broken bones. Good rest and lots of TLC for the body and soul will soon have you bouncing around again. What a super star David was to come all that way to fetch you. I know just how super strong you are and to have you go down was a real indicator of how much pain you must have been in. Get well soon my lovely friend and hope to have you alongside me on my next camino In September. Love always and speedy healingXXXXX
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And I thought you must be having internet problems! How quickly tendonitis can develop- is there anything you could have done? Glad to hear you are back home, heal well and enjoy the sunshine.
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Maggie,
I understand how you feel (I presume) as I had a knee injury 3 years ago on the Via de la Plata that ended my Camino in Ourense. I am now a little more than a year out from a knee replacement and plotting my next Camino.
I recommend Tennyson’s “Ulysses” in times of age related trial (I am not saying your injury is age related, but mine was) which concludes “Made weak by time and fate, but strong in will
To strive, to seek, to find, and not to yield.”
Buen Camino to you whenever you resume.
Stephen
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Sorry you had to stop your Camino, but glad it is nothing serious. I have walked the caminos thru your blogs, and enjoy them tremendously. Plese take care and write how you are feeling.
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Every morning I would look for your posts in my email inbox and as each day progressed I feared the worst, So glad to hear you are alright and on the mend. Rest up and get strong again, there is always next year! Take care of yourself, Melx
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Ditto ditto ditto Maggie to all these wonderful messages of support. If I may add mine with bucketloads of reiki we should collectively have you hurtling along another Camino Camino in no time. Much meta for a rapid recuperation.
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Maybe just make that one Camino at a time…!!
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Geoff and I were so sad to hear of your injury but so glad that Saint David was able to come and collect you. Onwards and upwards. Much love xx
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Well, after 6 plus Caminos (more than a lot of people have done), I think you’ve earned the right to take it easy for awhile! As usual, I’ve enjoyed following along and seeing your pictures on this one. Take it easy and until next time, Adieu 💐
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Sorry to hear of the unplanned end of this camino and best wishes for a quick recovery! Last year I experienced for the first time on my walks I’ve done a situation where I couldn’t go on. I was hiking the extremely difficult GR20 in Corsica and after the first 3 days I was sick and weak from dehydration and nutrition issues which made continuing quite dangerous on such difficult mountain hiking so I stopped. It was humbling but I was thankful and grateful also for the help I received from kind strangers. I’ve found the time since then til my next walk making me long even more for being out there and I’m sure you will be as motivated and ready to go on your next journey!
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My wife always says “things like this happen for a reason”. I always remind her that maybe, just maybe, that reason is to just piss us off. I’m hoping you have a better reason. Sorry you had to stop early. I’ll be missing your updates.
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Dear Maggi, that was a very smart decision! Try to rest there will be time for more Caminos once you get strong. Thanks a lot for being an inspiration and for sharing your wonderful experiences with all of us pilgrims. I hope we’ll hear from you soon again. A big hug😘
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I have been checking each day for news from you, knowing that you’d get back to us when you were ready. Thanks for the update. It must have been so disappointing. Odd in a way that it was so sudden and severe, but at least you didn’t have to wrestle with a decision. I hope and expect that you will recover fully and be back walking before long. Slower and shorter is fine! Please keep posting about this journey – we are all interested!
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I am so sorry your Camino was cut short. I really enjoy following along while you are walking. Hopefully you will have a speedy recovery and you will be back on another walking adventure soon.
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I’m so sorry you had to end your Camino this year, but it sounds like you’re on the mend and you’re keeping such a great spirit. Get well soon!
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I’m sorry you have to interrupt the camino. Hope you will be well soon and that we can read about new hikes again. You have a lovely cat! Have a nice summer!
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What a shame but you’ve done the right thing, you can always finish it at a later date. Take the time to recover fully. Best Wishes. R
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Mea culpa my friend! I have not been following you as closely as I should. There have been other matters on my mind namely my breast cancer and my brother’ pancreatic cancer. I’m on the mend although the chemo pill is creating havoc on my system and my brother is in the end stages of his earthly journey. I admire your strength and fortitude as well as your good fortune to be able to carry on your love of long distance hiking. With a bit of patience and a lot of training, I hope to someday do another Camino! You are my role model! Get well soon! ❣️
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Oh Sue, I do so hope you will be back on track as soon as possible. A friend of mine has just changed her breast cancer medication and is feeling so much better for it. So sorry to hear about your brother. It puts such minor injuries as mine well and truly in perspective. Wishing you both the very best that life can bring. Maggie xx
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Thanks for taking the time to answer Maggie! I will pull through and my brother has the most amazing spirit this you’ve ever seen! ❤️
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So sorry to hear that your adventures have ended but best to take care of your body. Hope all heals quickly and I know you will be back on the Camino again! Thanks for your posts and pics and a great read!
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Beste Maggie,
Neem me niet kwalijk dat ik in het Nederlands schrijf, dit is mijn moedertaal. Ik volg je al enkele jaren en sta versteld van je belevenissen. Ik kijk uit naar elk nieuw bericht van jou. Ik vind het echt spijtig dat je dit jaar jouw caminoplannen niet tot een goed einde hebt kunnen brengen. Ik ben een Belgische vrouw van 70 jaar. Jij was mijn inspiratiebron om mij ook aan een camino te wagen. In de maand januari had ik ook veel last aan mijn rechterheup – onderrug. Toch hebben mijn man en ik tussen 14 april en 2 mei een deel van de via de la Plata gelopen. Zonder jouw inspiratie zou ik er misschien nooit aan begonnen zijn. Ik hoop stellig dat je medisch probleem snel van de baan mag zijn. Een hartelijke groet, Amanda I
>
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Hola Amanda. Heel erg bedankt voor je vriendelijke bericht. Ik herstel langzaam beweging in mijn heup, maar ik denk dat het langer zal duren dan ik eerst dacht. Ik ben zo blij dat je volledig hersteld bent van je blessure en een deel van de Via de la Plata hebt gelopen. Ik hoop echt dat ik over vijf jaar, als ik net zo oud ben, nog steeds zal lopen. Buen camino voor je volgende avontuur.
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Ci dispiace molto sei la nostra ” apri pista” ti abbiamo seguito sul TORRES. E a luglio anche noi sulla RUTA LANA…. Buon riposo. ti consigliamo per il prossimo da Santander lebaniego olvidado. Ciao Yvonne e Luca da Milano
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Grazie, Yvonne e Luca. Stavo progettando di percorrere la seconda metà dell’Olvidado dopo la Lana – un giorno succederà. A luglio, assicurati di avere un buon cappello o un ombrello migliore per le prime tappe della Lana. Non c’è ombra Buen camino!
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A presto.ciao.luca e ivonne da milano
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finally managed to catch up with your postings & send you happy thoughts of what you have done & what you will do – ” Plenty time to get a book going ” ( probs not in the right moment of time/frame of mind ! ) knew something was”ent right when i did”nt get me daily updates – keep your chin-up & hope you recover soon
regards
The 2 geordies xx
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Hi Magwood, I wanted to write as you’ve been a real source of inspiration for my husband and me doing caminos over the last few years. I’m so sorry you have had hip problems this year and that you’ve had to cut things short. As you said, though, it’s so great you’ve been surrounded by friends and family to help you and even more amazing that you’ve walked so many caminos so far.
Anyway, I wanted to say thank you so much for your detailed blog posts- they’ve helped us plan and prepare so much, and perhaps more than anything get excited about being back on the road.
Looking forward to reading about your next adventure very soon, Dorrie
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So lovely to hear from you Dorrie and I’m delighted that you have found the blog useful. It was indeed a big disappointment to have to give up this year, but there will hopefully be many more years ahead for me to finish the Lana and start lots of other caminos.
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Just found this blog.. so am relieved to understand what happened. You were so very fortunate with your friend and partner and the kindness of Spanish strangers (which I have experienced also). Really hope you have totally recovered and will be underway again in 2020.
Philip
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Many thanks Philip. People are so kind, including all the folks that read this blog. Thanks for your concern and now the new year has arrived I am planning my next camino.
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Thanks for your concern Philip. I’m not sure how I would have coped alone, but of course there is always a way and generally people are so kind and helpful. I’m well on the way to a full recovery and am busy planning for the next one!
Buen camino
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