Panadella to Tárrega, 31 km

Elevation gain 146 m

Elevation loss 485 m

Total distance 82 km

We almost missed the turn onto the track when we started off this morning. It is very soon after leaving the hostel and passing the petrol station on the left.

Once again there is a huge amount of rain forecast for the middle of our walk – we shall see!

But right now as we set off for the day, the sun is shining bright in the blue blue sky. We have crop fields on one side and pine trees on the other, and at the moment all is very well indeed.

At 4km we pass through the first tiny village with its beautifully renovated properties. We’re then on a road until we reach the next village, Sant Antoni at 5.7 km. There is a shop, which is not open at 08:30, but there is a bar at the exit of the town which is open and offers a nice stamp for our credenciales.

Then we’re still walking on hard surface, but more like agricultural tracks through fields of weaving crops under a mackerel sky

At 9.5 km after passing through the village of Sant Pere dels Arquells there is an option to go to the right on the road or straight on which is a motocross path. We’re taking the motocross path because someone has recommended it.

The motocross track soon turns into a dirt trail and it is stunningly beautiful with wide agricultural vistas and luckily no motorbikes to kick dust up into our faces

After about 1.5 km on this trail we turn onto a very narrow winding stony path up between scrubby pines, holly oak and holm oak – and I am instantly reminded of one of my favourite walks from when I lived in Spain, but instead of the wide open countryside in the distance that I see today, in Cómpeta we had mountain views leading down to the blue Mediterranean. I couldn’t really say which was better though.

There are lots of wildflowers. I’ve seen several lizards a huge cricket and the bird song is loud and beautiful.

There are foxgloves growing amongst the trees, but sadly they are not in flower yet – it will be stunning in a week or two.

I have fallen far behind the others whilst I stop to take photos and just admire the views and when I am moving, I dictate these notes along the way because if I didn’t, I would certainly not remember much detail about where I’ve walked – there would be a general, “oh my goodness that was lovely”.

Marilyn and I were sidetracked by a large group of school children screeching about the dirt tracks on bicycles at the village of Vergós and we found ourselves following arrows that took us on the road for the next few kms into Cervera, whereas there was an option to stay on track as far as the town.

We decide not to follow directions into the centre of Cervera which is situated atop a steep hill and work our way around the streets to avoid the climb.

At 18 km we’re back on a wide stony track with scrubby steep hills on one side and cereal crops on the other. We stopped for a quick break at this beautiful crumbling ancient church to rest our feet for a while and eat a few supplies.

I haven’t found my happy place with my backpack yet and keep adjusting various straps to make it more comfortable. It usually takes a few days to get sorted, hopefully not much longer !

More road at 23.5 km and then the rain comes down again, very heavily for a good while. By the time it lets up we have reached El Talladell, 27km – a very pretty ancient village full of stone houses – really charming. We find a bar but it shuts at 14:00 and we arrive at 14:20 so we sit for a while and dry off our gear.

It’s only a couple of km to our stage end at the large town of Tárrega and we stop in a pretty square for a couple of tapas and a refreshing fizzy drink, before making our way to the Albergue that is situated at the far end of the town in an industrial area. The registration period is over long before we arrive so we have to call the Policia Local to come and register us. When they turn up 30 minutes later they are very patient and kind.

The Albergue is situated in the building pictured below. There are 14 beds, two bathrooms, and a kitchen with just a fridge and microwave and no utensils, crockery or cutlery – just a few glasses. There are several supermarkets en route to the albergue.

I’ll add contact details for the Albergue at a later date.