Lumbier to Monreal, 22.8 km

Elevation gain 483 m

Elevation loss 371 m

Total distance walked 425 km

I seem to have picked up a head cold during yesterday‘s walk and I’m finding today a bit of a struggle, having to constantly blow my nose and having difficulty breathing through my nose. I also have to say I’m so tired of these gravel tracks and I can see one looming ahead and continuing as far as the eye can see.

The wind is still very strong although it doesn’t have the bitter coldness to it. As I walk past a field of barley it is ripling and swaying and looking quite magical.

Arrows are very sketchy today so it’s lucky that I’ve downloaded a track otherwise I’m not sure we would know where we were going.

There’s a 2.5 km steady climb on the road but only four vehicles pass us all the time we were on it. I think most people are using the motorway that runs close by.

The arrows are really bizarre today. There are none whatsoever at really crucial points and then suddenly one pops up out of nowhere. I don’t think you could walk this route without having some sort of track to follow.

There are the usual crop fields of wheat, barley, and oats but also many fields of broad bean. So there is nice green scenery but the gravel path is relentless.

We pass through a series of immaculately kept villages. None with any services. I wonder if there is a program for renovation in this area because it seems unlikely that there should be no dilapidation in these tiny remote villages.

I had been wishing for a dirt track through trees for most of this stage and finally my wish was granted shortly before reaching our stage end at Monreal, another large village/small town that is very pretty. There notes that I had researched told me there were all services here, but sadly there is no shop but two bars that sell food. The albergue here is very nice – good kitchen facilities, 20 beds, sufficient bathroom facilities if the place isn’t full. Tonight we are joined at the Albergue by 8 other pilgrims, none of whom we’ve seen before.

Albergue de Peregrinos, C. Santa Barbara, 4, 690 024 701. email: alberguemonreal@koine-aequalitas.es, €10, 20 places, kitchen, washing machine, rave reviews