Monreal to Pamplona, 26.5 km

Elevation gain 441 m

Elevation loss 542 m

Total distance walked 451.5 km

I was reminded how an albergue works when there are a number of pilgrims staying. The commotion started at 04:30 with inconsiderate people making a racket rustling carrier bags and communicating in voices that definitely weren’t whispers. We were the last to leave at around 07:00.

1. We have a lovely narrow dirt track winding up and down hills. But when we stopped for a rest at 6.5 km and check the track, I see that we overshot our turn off by 450 m. We are not walking the standard stage to Puente La Reina but taking a diversion to Pamplona which has better transport options for us.

We’re back on gravel tracks but fairly smooth and not dead straight. I realise pretty soon that we are heading towards a big hill that we have to climb over. And then the route is interrupted by a farmer who has fenced the approach and installed a very barky dog. In order to regain the track we had to walk along the edge of a wheat field (note: we were walking carefully to do least damage, not like our recent Prime Minister Theresa May!!) It was full of brambles and gorse grabbing at us as we passed, and then over a newly mown hay field and down a very steep bank! It was necessary to climb over a few fences before we were finally back on track – so don’t follow my route unless you like an adventure!

Then it was on to a nice dirt track through overhanging trees, so we had plenty of shade albeit uphill all the way

I have to say it felt very good to reach what I hoped was the top of that hill although there were a few more climbs to tackle. The problem with following random tracks is that things can change – rights of ways can be withdrawn. But we made it. We were passed by a group of 15 or 20 mountain bikers whizzing down the hill and a couple of runners and various people out for some Sunday exercise.

And once we crested the top of the hill at 13 km Pamplona came into view far far away. There are wonderful signs of life in the fields – horses with foals and cows with calves. This is what I have really missed on this Camino – live animals breathing fresh air under a blue sky.

There was a last hoorah from poppies adorning a wheat field and after various tracks and a little bit of road walking we had reached the outskirts of the city at 21.5 km and stopped at our first opportunity for refreshment and a bite to eat.

We passed a huge number of shiny new apartment buildings that lined both sides of the approach road for kilometres and finally made it to the old city centre after 26.5 km.

And so we have completed our last day of walking. I made it without injury. My body didn’t let me down this time, and I am very happy about that. Tomorrow I will get the bus to Bilbao and fly home the following day.

Paul and I have stuffed ourselves with excellent food this evening – the first time I have eaten properly in three or four days. Marilyn is on her way to Barcelona and is flying back to South Africa tomorrow. Sadly her ankle is still painful. It has been great to spend time with fab camino buddies, making more memories to last for years to come.

Until the next time…