Porriño to Redondela 16 km

https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/porrino-redondela-237258500

Having struggled to wake Mikey out of his stupor this morning we finally set off at almost 9 o’clock, but it’s a very short stage we are walking today, so no matter.

This is a new experience walking with Mikey – obviously new because we haven’t done it before. Normally, when walking with another, you tend to walk at slightly different paces and part company from time to time along the way, meeting up again at some point further on. 

This experience is very different because we are walking every step together and Mikey is a real chatterbox, which is lovely but doesn’t leave much time for contemplation.

There was no rain today (although it came down in some style during the night). But it remained persistently grey with only the tiniest glimpse of blue sky behind the clouds on rare occasions. 

The scenery is pleasant enough but the walking is almost entirely on road – mostly very quiet with very few cars

We stop at a very pretty village called Mos at just over 6 km for a drink for me and a pain au chocolat for Mikey.  There are several albergues in this village and it would make a nice place to stay as there are sufficient bars/restaurants here.

There are lots of pilgrims walking at the moment – many with just day packs so presumably with some sort of tour company. Or maybe they’re walking just a stage at a time.  We met a group of Canadians, saw our Japanese friend a few times, took photos for a Brazilian peregrina. Mikey is very comfortable communicating with strangers – and does himself (and me) proud with his general demeanour.   

There are a few climbs that get my lungs working overtime and one severe decline of 120m over less than 1km.   I’m using my walking poles a lot less often these last few caminos and Mikey has taken them over for much of the time. But I’m quick to claim them back during an incline and most definitely needed them on that ridiculously steep downhill. 

Mikey found it particularly difficult to coordinate his limbs when using the poles all day yesterday and most of today, and then towards the end of today’s stage he suddenly found his rhythm and is using them like a pro. 

We arrived at Redondela at around 13:00 and easily found our lodgings for the night at Albergue A Conserveira – so much nicer than the junta Albergue I stayed in last time I was here (the bunk beds were pushed together in pairs so that you were to all intents and purposes sleeping with a stranger). This place has well laid out bathrooms, as much privacy as you could want in the dormitory cubicles and good kitchen facilities. What’s not to like?  €15 each. 

So far the albergues have only accepted cash payments which isn’t a problem now that I have visited the hole in the wall. 

This afternoon I have sipped my first glass of Albariño. This is my favourite white wine, grown in Galicia and northern Portugal. The grapes are usually (I believe – I’m a sure someone will correct me if I’m wrong) grown from long stems so that the grapes stay free of mildew and rot.

6 Fun Facts About Albariño

1. On the Wine Day Calendar, August 1st is Albariño Day!
2. Some of the oldest Albariño vines are said to be up to 300 years old, though most are much younger. (For comparison, the oldest known grapevine in the world is over 400 years old.)
3. It’s common to see the word “Albariño” on Spanish labels, unlike other areas which label by region.
4. Spanish and Portuguese winemakers traditionally prioritize freshness with Albariño, though a few producers age it in oak for added complexity.
5. The grapes are tiny with thick skins. Not only does this make Albariño harder to produce, but it also results in a distinct raw-almond or citrus-pith-like bitterness from the skin’s phenol content.
6. Most Albariño vineyards have a very different look. Vines are trellised above your head on Pergolas to help keep grapes dry and rot-free.