Trepidatious traveller – camino blog | Camino de Santiago de Compostela

Assessment of clothes and gear

Posted on 16/06/2013 by magwood

This post is an assessment of the items that I took on my 2013 camino from the point of view of a trekking novice. I have since gained a little experience and have posted an assessment of the items I used on my 2014 camino here.

If you would like to see my 2013 packing list, detailing all items taken on my camino, with their respective weights, take a look here. Or if you want an exel file to edit with your own info, leave a comment with your email address and I will send you a copy.
My 2014 list can be seen here

For various reasons I had only a few days in which to buy most of my gear and with no prior experience of trekking I had to rely on research involving trawling the extremely helpful camino forums; on the help of sales assistants; and on instinct. I am largely very pleased with my choices.

Backpack – Osprey Atmos 35 litre
I chose this pack on recommendation from reports on the forums. It is probably a bit smaller than some would like and I found it easier to use with my sleeping bag strapped on the outside, which also helped it to balance on its base when not being worn. I particularly appreciated the mesh ventilation panel that holds the pack way from your body and allows an air flow. The pack is very light and once I got used to it, I found it very comfortable. I found the waist straps very annoying because they would always fold back on themselves so that I had to reach behind my back and under the pack to fish them out. Eventually I fixed the straps in a forward position with very lightweight cable ties. The pack showed no signs of wear after five solid weeks of use. If I’d had the experience that I now have, I would possibly have chosen differently, but it worked well enough.

Sleeping bag – Snugpak 7 degrees C
I chose a ‘mummy’ style sleeping bag because of weight issues. However I found this shape to be so restrictive that I would not use it again. There were many nights when it was not sufficiently warm and I had to use the blankets that were supplied in most albergues.
I also used a silk liner and a bed bug protection undersheet pre-treated with permethrin. We did not encounter any problems with bed bugs on our camino.

Boots – Mammut Atlas GTX Mid Walking Boots
I found it extremely difficult to find boots to fit me. I take a UK size 7 and was advised that I would need an 8 for trekking boots. However there were not many ladies’ boots available in the shops in a size 8. Many assistants tried to sell me men’s boots, but my feet are quite narrow and men’s boots were no good at all. These Mammut boots were the first ones (of dozens) that I tried that felt as though they fitted correctly. The vibram sole was extremely slip resistant, but the tread on the outside of the heels was completely worn down by the end of my journey. A thicker sole would have been more comfortable on the rough stoney ground. The gore-tex lining protected my feet from snow, deep mud and most rain. But on a couple of occasions when we were walking in hard rain all day my feet did get wet. Generally I was pleased with these boots and the uppers show no signs of wear at all. I think a pair of supportive in-soles would have made them more comfortable.

Walking poles – Pacer poles
I was amazed that I didn’t see any other pacer poles on the camino. I have never used trekking poles before but I certainly know the benefits of them now. The handles of the pacer poles are so comfortable that they felt like an extension of my hands. They always fell naturally into the desired position, without any effort on my part. I did have difficulty with the adjustable sections though. The length is adjusted by twisting the sections into place, but if my hands were sweaty I could not get sufficient grip to turn them. And once they were firmly in place I found it very difficult to free them. For me, this was a major problem and in the end I got a strong man to fix them at the correct height for walking on the level and then had to leave them unadjusted when walking up or down hill. However I used them every step of my journey and not only did they take a lot of strain from my joints, but also caused my hands not to swell, which I had found to be a big problem before I used the poles. (I have since been told by the suppliers that an air lock can cause the poles to lock up, and they should be taken to pieces from time to time. Since doing this, I have not had any further problems with them jamming.)

Rain jacket – North Face Venture Jacket (style A57Y)
Very lightweight, breathable, with long pit zips for ventilation. Should be waterproof and probably would be if worn without a pack. But carrying a pack somehow allows rain to penetrate and although I wasn’t soaked under the raincoat I was most definitely very damp. I read a lot of negative things about ponchos on the forums and I think they look absolutely ridiculous, but if I was to undertake a similar journey, I would definitely buy a lightweight poncho.

Trousers
I purchased two pairs of zip off pants, both in the sales. Again, I had no experience and didn’t really think beyond the fit. However I soon learned that the most important thing about walking trousers is the placement of the pockets. One pair had leg pockets at exactly the right level to be comfortably accessible, whereas the others were really awkward to get to. Needless to say, one pair was worn almost constantly and only when I had not been able to dry them did I resort to the others.

T-shirts
Two short sleeved and one long sleeve merino wool t-shirts. Again, bought in the sale for half price, but still very expensive. I only wore the long sleeve shirt once or twice during the day, although I did sleep in it on cold nights. They were great, could be worn for more than one day without getting smelly, washed well and were ok in the tumble dryer, although the instructions said not to dry in this way. If the weather had been any warmer I would have needed to walk in a sleeveless top.

Socks
Two pairs mid weight, two pairs liner socks, and one pair 1000 mile socks, all high percentage merino wool. Wore two pairs of socks (together) for the first couple of weeks but still got blisters on my heels. Eventually wore just one pair of socks and found this to be more comfortable and no blisters, but my feet had probably hardened up by then anyway.

Duck down body warmer – Rab
Very light weight and comfortable to wear. However duck down was not very practical as it did not wick moisture. However it dried very quickly and would pack down to almost nothing. I generally love body warmers and wear them a lot in normal life, but I would not take a feather item on a similar journey.

Fleece
I bought a cheap fleece, but in training found that the sleeves were too tight to pull up when I got warm. I decided to cut off the sleeves and use those only. I found this a very practical solution. Every morning I would put on the sleeves, tucked inside my t-shirt sleeves and under my bra straps to secure them. When I warmed up I could just pull the sleeves off without having to remove my pack. This probably sounds a bit daft to most people, but it really worked for me and I was very pleased with my invention. Most mornings started with fleece sleeves, body warmer and jacket, then as I warmed up, off came the jacket, then a bit later the sleeves and finally the body warmer. (Have since discovered cyclists’ arm warmers and will be purchasing a pair for my next camino)

Underwear
2 x everyday bras
I found some merino wool pants sold by a UK company called Finisterre. They were very comfortable and washed and dried easily.
Long johns, synthetic fibre. Wore a couple of times under walking trousers on particularly cold days, and often to sleep in.

Accessories
Gloves – I took fleece gloves and thin nylon liners. I used both a lot, as it could be quite chilly in the mornings, and because I was using poles, my hands were exposed to the elements at all times.

Buff ‘infinity’ – I took a long tubular scarf that protected my neck from the sun and the cold, and was particularly good wrapped around my head and neck in strong winds. I also wore it a lot in the evenings. It was very useful.

Visor – my home-made visor was made with the peak from a baseball cap and a section of a standard buff (BUFF®, a tube of seamless microfibre material, multifunctional headwear ideal for many activities. can be worn as a neckwarmer, headband, wristband, facemask, hairband, balaclava, scarf, scrunchie, bandana). I wore it every day for walking. It kept my hair out of my face and protected me from sun and rain and I wouldn’t have wanted to be without it.

Bum bag – leather waist bag that carried endless items I wanted to hand, and also my money and documents. I made a secondary safety clasp so that if the clip came undone (as it did a couple of times) it remained securely in place. It was easy to pick up and take with me in the evenings or when visiting the loo in the albergues. Another item that was indispensable.

Relaxing clothes
A silk skirt that weighed practically nothing and packed into a tiny ball.
Cashmere cardigan, light weight and practical.
Cotton T-shirt that I didn’t wear very much
2x cotton vest tops which I wore a lot, both in the evenings and as sleep wear
Lightweight cargo pants, put in as an extra at the very last minute and worn a great deal
Footless tights
1x pair underwear
Pair of ‘pretty’ crocs

I didn’t have warm enough relaxing clothes and often wore my walking t-shirts in the evening. My crocs looked nice with my skirt but rather silly with socks. However ugly normal crocs are, they would have been much more practical.

Technology
iPad mini – this is a fabulous piece of technology, so light in comparison to the full size version. I used it as a camera, a photo editor, for skyping, for writing my blog and posting it, for emails and Facebook, and as a book reader, I made a carry case that attached to my bum bag and I was able to access it very quickly and conveniently whenever I wanted to take a photo.

iPhone – used for phone calls and viber and for listening to music.

And finally…..
I am amending this post because I have realised that I failed to comment on the most important item of equipment that I took on my camino – my body!

I am on the verge of being 60 (just a week hence) and I am certainly aware of a few creaks and aches, particularly after a session of gardening, but I rarely have any problems that a good walk will not ease. I have remained vaguely fit because of the physical exercise necessary to look after and exercise a horse, and because I walk my dog very morning, but until I commenced training for my camino I had never done any serious trekking.

I commenced my practice walks at 7km, next day 12, and the next 17. The following week I walked 19km, 20 and 23. I gradually introduced my new boots, walking poles and backpack. I finally reached my goal of 30+km shortly before departure for my camino. But no amount of training can prepare you for walking between 20-35km every day, for weeks on end.

The the first week I could barely shuffle along at the end of the day and all my joints and muscles seemed to be aching to extreme, but between weeks 2 &.3 it gradually became a little easier and everything seemed to fit more comfortably. Part of my problem with stiffness was because I did not stretch at the end of the day’s walk. There are many simple and gentle stretches that will ease aches and pains – as you would do at the end of an exercise class. I shall make a concerted effort to stretch each day on my next camino and hopefully will notice the difference.

The human body is an incredible piece of equipment, ever ready to adapt to whatever challenge we throw at it. And then of course there is the mind – and how that broadens to encompass all it encounters, strange and uncomfortable situations, disturbed nights, conversing with new people and coping with the unknown and unexpected.

My parents didn’t look after their bodies. They smoked and took almost no exercise. They had very active minds, but very idle bodies. And they both suffered physical difficulties in later years. I will try my utmost to look after my body as I get older. I find it amazing that it carried me almost 1,000km during my camino Frances and I would like to think that I will give it the respect it deserves in years to come, by keeping fit and active. And once again, I offer my deep and sincere thanks to Ella for getting me up out of my chair and onto my feet, pushing my boundaries with very step.

Posted in Camino assessments and reflections, Camino de Santiago de Compostela | Tagged Camino de Santiago., Camino Frances, gear assessment, packing list | 12 Comments

Life after the camino, (falling in love with Santiago) 24 and 25 May 2013

Posted on 26/05/2013 by magwood

David arrived at about 10pm last night (Thursday) and after dumping his bag at the hotel we went towards the old town for a ‘welcome to Santiago’ drink. The next morning we decided against breakfast in the hotel and I showed David the approach to the city that pilgrims follow towards the cathedral. After admiring the beautiful cathedral square we found a cafe in a lovely old building for breakfast, and then visited the museum of the city, where there were very intricate models of the old city and the cathedral.

The whole of the ancient city is pedestrianised, apart from the odd delivery vehicle, taxis and police cars, so there is a very leisurely feel to the place and although it is extremely busy with tourists there are no vehicles to dodge.

We have discovered that the botafumeiro will not be swinging at the pilgrims’ mass at noon today, but that it will be used after the 7:30pm mass this evening, so we decide that we will attend the later ‘performance’.

The square in front of the cathedral is huge and devoid of commercialisation, no bars, no shops just a vast space full of people looking up in awe at the surrounding buildings. Because of its history as a destination for pilgrims since medieval times the old city is full of ancient monasteries, convents and hospitals, many now converted to hotels, university buildings, schools, local authority offices and museums. The whole of one side of the cathedral square is taken up by a parador in the building of the royal hospital dating back to 1499 and suggested to be ‘the oldest hotel in the world’. We walk in to have a look around and stop for a drink in the bar. I notice a door in the corner and find that it leads to an outside terrace, tucked right up in the corner of the main square, quite hidden away but with a real vantage point to view all that is going on. We move outside and have a couple more drinks to while away the time in the lovely sunshine. When we manage to tear ourselves away from the parador terrace we mooch around the narrow streets deciding where we shall eat lunch.

This choice is entirely governed by my ‘scallop-fest’, which David is very keen to indulge in as he is also rather fond of them. We decide to revisit the scene of my first encounter with the shell fish, but although they are good, they are a little over-cooked. Maybe that will cure me of my lust for zamburiñas for the time being.

In the afternoon we seek out a park that I have been told has wonderful views towards the cathedral spires. After taking a very round-about route, I realise it is the same park that I visited the day before and could have been reached much more directly, but never mind, it was fun to discover some new streets. We climb to the top of the park where we expect to see the stunning views, but everything in the direction of the cathedral is hidden by the leaves on the trees. I wonder if the view is only available in the winter months and we turn and walk back down, when suddenly at a lower level, we can see what all the fuss is about.

We return to the hotel to change into warmer clothes and set off once again to the cathedral for the mass. We arrive in good time to find seats where I think we will have a good vantage point and the botafumeiro will soar immediately above our heads. As a ‘heathen’ I am disappointed by the mass, no singing as in the pilgrims’ mass, in fact all very business-like. It is over relatively quickly and then the incense burner is hauled upward by the six red-cloaked attendants, and as they expertly pull on the ropes it starts to swing, gaining incredible height and swinging in a huge arc above us, billowing out incense as it passes. At the same time the organ starts up and the nun with the magic voice starts to sing. I filmed it for a while and then just turned the video off because I wanted to properly enjoy the experience to the full. The music and the splendour are truly fabulous.

After the service we find a cosy bar for a light supper and then return to the hotel.

David wants breakfast in the hotel this morning (Saturday), before checking out. Luckily we can leave our bags there for the day. The staff at the hotel have been very friendly and helpful and the room has been impeccably cleaned every day. Although it doesn’t have much character, we would not fault it at all.

We wandered through the food market which is very close to the hotel. It is a pity that Ella didn’t have time to discover this market because she is passionate about food and would have loved to see all the goods on show.

I remember being told in the cathedral office that it is possible to take a rooftop tour. So we book a tour for mid-day and mosey over to the corner of the square to while away half an hour or so until noon. But to our dismay the pardor terrace is not in use and the door to the bar is locked. Unperturbed, David walks to the main entrance and through to the bar and asks the attendant if he will serve us drinks on the terrace. “No” is the response, in the usual brusque no-nonsense Spanish way. So David orders the drinks which the bar tender insists are delivered to a table in the lounge where David must sit. Whereupon David picks up the cups of hot chocolate and carries them through reception, out of the main entrance (where a wedding party are arriving) and the fifty metres or so to the terrace where I am waiting. Some people just don’t take “no” for an answer – thank goodness!

Our tour coincides with the start of the pilgrims’ mass and as we walk into the cathedral to access the tower steps the ‘wonder nun’ breaks into song and David is mesmerised and wants to stay for the service. I persuade him to join the tour and assure him that the service will still be going on when we have finished the tour, as it lasted for an hour and three quarters when I attended it and the tour is only for one hour. He hesitatingly follows and after a few stops for explanations of various objects (in very fast Spanish that I cannot understand very well) we reach the roof. I have seen from aerial photos and from models that the roof is in the shape of a cross and is grey in colour.

What I had not realised is that this grey area is made of slabs of stone in steps up to the apex. The minute I exit onto the roof I feel like a child in a toy shop. I am free to wander at will around this huge area of rooftop, up and down the steps, looking over parapets down onto the square below. I absolutely loved it. This is one of the great things about the Spanish – you are allowed to do things that are potentially a bit dangeous and use your common sense to look after yourself. In the UK the health and safety police would ban anything of the sort.

I was taken back to childhood again, when I lived in Tewkesbury between the age of 8 and 14. I went to a senior school that was connected to Tewkesbury Abbey and we were allowed (in the good old days before the damned health and safety police were invented) to have access to the tower roof. It was tiny in comparison to what I was experiencing today, but I remember finding it very exciting.

I leave the guided group and explore on my own, up and down the steps of all the aspects, seeing all the statues and spires from a different angle, and I really am like a child in my enjoyment, clicking away with my camera and ipad, totally lost in the moment.

I peer through a dirty window of a dome and can vaguely see some sculptures but when I put my ipad to the window it somehow lights up the scene inside and I realise I am looking down on all the finery that rises above the altar and the golden statue of Saint James.

All too soon (although we must have been on the roof for at least forty-five minutes) we are ushered back inside and as we emerge onto the gallery above the cathedral floor, the botafumeiro is in action again and wonder-nun is singing her special song, and we get to see it from yet another angle.

If I seem irreverent in my description, please believe that I have the greatest respect for everything that I witnessed in the cathedral of Santiago. It is a most special place and if you ever get the opportunity to attend the pilgrims’ mass, please go along and you will absolutely know what I mean.

We sat quietly for a while before leaving the cathedral via the shop where I bought a mug with, of course, a botafumeiro print, and then visited a cafe at the rear of the church and contemplated our visit. We both absolutely love this place, the inner city is ancient and beautiful and full of character. It is a place to visit where you don’t need to rush around making sure you see this and that. It is a totally leisurely place meant for strolling, eating and drinking and admiring the architecture. I would highly recommend Santiago as a city for a short break, and it is so cheap to fly from Málaga that it certainly won’t break the bank.

We took one last stroll to the park and could hear some chanting and drumming so went to investigate. We came across a group performing what we discovered to be Capoeira, a Brazilian martial art incorporating elements of dance and music, developed by slaves in the 16th century. It was very entertaining for half and hour in the sunshine. Google it – it is very interesting.

The time soon came to return to the hotel, collect our bags and catch the bus to the airport. As we took off the sun was setting in the distance and halfway through the flight I looked out of the window and saw the full moon shining below us. It was stunning. I had never looked down on the moon before. A perfect end to a fabulous few days.

Posted in A view of life, Camino de Santiago de Compostela | 7 Comments

And we’re off! Day 1, 16 April 2013, St Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles, 27.1 km

Posted on 18/04/2013 by magwood

I had pre-arranged a taxi from Biarritz airport (which cost almost as much as my two flights put together) and watched eagerly as we passed by the French landscape. There were mountains on all sides and I wondered which one we would have to cross the next day. The houses are built in chalet style and the land is very green.

It is an hour’s drive to St Jean Pied de Port and it was 9pm when I arrived. Ella had already chummed up with a Danish guy called Søren. I had a quick bite to eat with them at the albergue that Ella had booked us into before going to bed in a dormitory of 14 beds, I think 12 of them were being used by all nationalities. There were two loos and two showers between us which didn’t seem to be a problem. There was a lot or rustling before everyone settled down to sleep and I set my alarm for 06:30 so that I could use the facilities before everyone else was up.

We had breakfast at 07:30 and then I had to go to the pilgrims’ office to get my credential (the pilgrim’s passport that gets stamped at each overnight stay). Ella had obtained her’s the previous day when she arrived. We then set out in search of somewhere to buy something to eat on our journey. There was almost nothing open – what a lack of initiative by the local shop owners – there are loads of people leaving town every day, and I expect most of them need food. We finally found a bread shop and a deli and we set off with Søren on the start of our trek. He is a very useful guy to have around – he is a guide for outdoor activities and so is very knowledgeable about how we should conduct ourselves.

It is 8:15am by the time we leave town and it is literally an uphill struggle that continues for 22km. Imagine la rampa in Cómpeta continuing for 22km and then turning round and walking down it for a further 5km.

The scenery is stunning, mountains in all directions, lots of farm animals close to town and further into the wilderness there were wild ponies roaming at will, all looking very well fed on the abundant grass.

Halfway through the morning we hooked up with a Dutch guy called Peter and the four of us stuck together throughout the walk. Ella found it really difficult to begin with and I gave her my walking poles to see if they helped. I must say that I missed them though. Søren walked slower than his normal pace in order to stay with us and under his instruction we stopped every hour or so for ten minutes and took our boots and socks off to air our feet.

We stopped at 12:30pm to eat some lunch and rested for half an hour in the sunshine before tackling the hardest part of the climb.

There was quite a lot of snow at this height, mostly on the mountain sides but we had to walk through quite a bit of it, and lots of very wet and deep mud. Our boots were well and truly christened. It was however a beautiful day, warm and sunny but not too hot, we were all walking in shorts and short sleeved T-shirts.

After crossing the border into Spain and Navarra We finally reached the highest point at 1,429 metres at 3:45pm and from here it was all downhill, some of it in snow, some in mud, both of which were very slippery. I almost went down in the mud, first of all skidding and then over-compensating and almost falling backwards. I did however end up on the ground whilst walking through a forest of beech trees, but not much harm was done, except to my pride.

Just before reaching our destination we came across the stone that had been placed in memory of the Brazilian pilgrim who had died a couple of weeks ago whilst attempting the route we had just taken.

We finally reached the albergue at Roncesvalles at just after 5pm. The building is an old monastery with accommodation for 180 pilgrims over three floors, with very modern facilities. The beds are in cubicles of four (two up, two down) with very clean and tidy loos and shower rooms.

After signing in and getting our credentials stamped, we showered, did our laundry and wandered over to the nearby bar where we ordered a beer and a pilgrims’ menu for 7pm. There are two sittings, and there were at least 80 people at the 7pm sitting, no idea how many at the later one. But there must have been at least 100 pilgrims who set off from St Jean this morning. I had no idea there would be this number.

After dinner I attended the pilgrims’ mass at the monastery church, not really my thing but I thought I should attend. I then set about writing up my blog but ran out of time to post this one. Wifi shut down at 9:30pm and lights out at 10:00pm.

It is now 10:45pm and I hope I can add photos to this in the morning and post it, so that I don’t get behind with my blog.

Incidentally the guy we are sharing our cubicle with is a very consistent snorer and I don’t know where my ear plugs are!

It has been a very hard day but we made it and hopefully we will get stronger each day.

Posted in Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Camino Frances, Walking the walk | Tagged albergue, Biarritz airport, Camino blog, Camino de Santiago blog, Camino de Santiago., Camino Frances, dormitory, Napoleon pass, Navarra, pilgrim's credential, Pyrenees, Roncesvalles, St Jean Pied de Port | 27 Comments

Two days in Santiago

Posted on 29/10/2025 by magwood

Thanks so much to everyone for all the supportive comments. They are really very much appreciated.

Santiago day 1

After enjoying the included breakfast at the hospidaria we wandered over to the food market where Mikey bought yet another mango. And then visited the Pilgrims’ Office to collect our Compostelas. The system here has changed since I last collected one. There are now computers in an anteroom where you input your details and are then issued a ticket with a number and take your place in a queue until your number is called. There was no queue and we were able to walk right in and claim the Compostela. Mikey also requested a distance certificate.

Next stop – the cathedral for the pilgrims’ mass. Things have also changed a lot since I was last here. There’s now a one way system for entering/exiting, there are many more security guards than I’ve seen previously, there is no entry at all at the Pórtico de Gloria (the main doors from Praza do Obradoiro). I’m positive I have entered by these doors in the past but I’ve read that there has been no access for years.

When Mikey and I entered through the southern door for the mass we were counted in by a guard with a clicker. Sadly the botofumeiro didn’t swing. As we were about to leave the cathedral we bumped into Paul (English) and Sam (South African) who we met on day one and again on day five when we arranged to see them in Santiago for lunch.

After lunch I took Mikey to meet the two Marias in the parque de Alameda. Little Maria seemed a bit disapproving when Mikey placed his armpit close to her nose 😂

In the evening we wandered over to Praza do Obradoiro to watch the ‘Tunos’ performing under the arches. They really are great fun with beautiful strong voices. They must love what they do as they turn up every night, and in the rain last night there wasn’t a huge crowd to fill the collection plate (tambourine). Mikey seemed to enjoy the show, no sign that he thought it was a bit naff.

Santiago day 2

I discovered that a guy who comments on my blog is in Santiago with his wife, after walking the Camino Frances for the third time. We arrange to meet over churros and chocolate and spend a lovely hour or so with them and their friend. You can check out his blog here

We’ve purchased tickets for the cathedral rooftop tour which come with free admission to the Museum.

So we wander over for a mooch around, then find some late lunch, and suddenly it’s time for our tour.

I specifically selected the 17:00 tour as the weather forecast predicted that the rain would have stopped by then, and indeed it had. Not only that but the sun put in an appearance and the conditions were absolutely perfect for our tour. There has been a complete new roof since I last did this in 2013. Mikey made my heart miss a few beats as he leapt around the steeply sloping roof like a mountain goat but the guide didn’t seem fazed – I expect she’s dealt with a lot more alarming kids’ antics. The tour included a climb to the top of the Torre de la Carraca where the views over Praza do Obradoiro with the sun setting behind made for the perfect finale to a perfect mini camino.

All that was left was a quick visit to the cathedral to light a couple of candles, after which Mikey returned to his room and I went in search of my last couple of glasses of Albariño before returning to the UK tomorrow.

There is a small disappointment to report though. As mentioned previously, on the morning of my departure from the UK I accidentally smashed my much loved and greatly treasured camino mug. I thought that I would be able to replace it at the cathedral shop but they no longer sell that design. I couldn’t find anything that comes remotely close to how much I loved that mug. But hey-ho, if that’s my biggest problem I’m doing ok.

Thanks again to one and all for your much appreciated company. Until the next time…

Posted in Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Camino Portuguese, Camino Portuguese Variante Espiritual | Tagged Camino blog, Camino de Santiago blog, Camino de Santiago de compostela, Camino de Santiago., camino Portuguese, Camino Portuguese Variante Espiritual, long distance hiking, Portugal, Spain, travel | 8 Comments

Camino Portuguese from Valença, Stage 6

Posted on 28/10/2025 by magwood

Vilanova de Arousa to Pontesecures by boat 28 km

Pontesecures to Santiago de Compostela on foot, 28.4 km

https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/puentecesures-catedral-de-santiago-237882833

Last night’s accommodation was at Albergue A Corticela, €20 each. Nicely presented, maybe 12 places – we were in a room for 4. We were planning to do a major laundry session so that we could arrive into Santiago nice and fresh but there was no tumble drier and no outside space to hang washing so we didn’t dare. Therefore we shall enter Santiago as did pilgrims over the ages – a bit stinky – one of us a bit more stinky than the other 😉

Today’s stage commences with a boat ride at 08:00. Cost €30 per person. It’s a little (a lot) more comfortable, and a great deal warmer, than my last experience of this trip. Today we are travelling inside a large boat whereas as previously we were transported on a rib, great fun but…

Then v now…

It’s possible to walk along the Rio Ulla into Padron but this boat trip is accepted by the Pilgrims’ Office as a bona fide form of transport and it’s very pleasant. It covers around 28km and leaves a further 28 km to walk into Santiago. The start time is tide dependent and today’s 08:00 departure makes the onward walk a better prospect than last time when we departed at 10:00 meaning that we didn’t arrive into Santiago until 18:30. Also we have the promise of another sunny blue sky day so that will help us along way.

I count 44 pilgrims on the boat – and we are offered free hot drinks, orange juice, and cakes throughout the journey (of which Mikey takes great advantage).

It’s lovely to watch the sun come up and reflect on the ocean. We pass by mussel beds – over 2,000 of them according to the Captain – Spain is the second largest mussel producer in world.

We land at 09:45 and it’s very cold when we disembark. I have to find my gloves to stop my hands going numb. Every time we’ve found ourselves close to water the temperature seems to drop a few degrees and the wind picks up. Luckily it’s a very sunny day.

We take the short walk into Padron, where Mikey scans his phone for a convenient supermarket to purchase snacks for the day. I dissuade him from buying a couple of giant mangoes which would add more than a kilo to his pack weight and advise that there will be plenty opportunities in Santiago.

We are walking on roads since leaving the boat some narrow lanes through tiny hamlets, some major roads but not for too long, and some quite busy without any shoulder which is not very nice. Mikey is feeling a bit weary so we’ve taken a couple of stops.

As the day progresses it gets very warm and I become the weary one whilst Mikey finds a new lease of energy and bullies me to continue without another break.

After a long, long day we finally enter the outskirts of Santiago. Mikey is now really determined to find his much desired mango and pops into several shops along the way but can’t find any that are suitably ripe.

We finally reach Praza do Obradoiro (the cathedral square) at 17:30, exactly as we had predicted. At my insistence we have a brief hug, I wipe a tear or two, and take the obligatory selfie.

And there it is! Another camino completed. A very different camino for me and perhaps the most special since my first that I walked with my daughter Ella.

I love Santiago. The splendour of the historic buildings, the grand squares and narrow alleyways, the familiarity after so many visits.

We continue the short distance to our lodgings for the next three nights – it’s not far, in fact directly opposite the north entrance to cathedral. I have opted to stay at the Hospidaria San Martin Pinario, a huge and ancient monastery, now converted to an hotel. They reserve the very basic rooms on the fourth floor for pilgrims at a special rate of €30 per night. The albergue I usually use is now charging €22 for a bunk bed in a dorm so it doesn’t seem too much of an extravagance to stay here and give us both the treat of the privacy of a wall between us.

Mikey takes to his room and dives on his bed to watch a movie for 90 minutes whilst I get changed and wander out for a glass of wine. But then my Nana instincts overcome my need for alcohol and I go in search of mangoes and return triumphant bearing fruit.

Later we find a restaurant for a shared pizza and I can finally scratch my wine itch while Mikey plans his next camino.

He also mentions in passing that this has been one of the best holidays he’s ever had!

Nana duties well and truly accomplished

Camino Portuguese from Valença, Stage 5

Posted on 26/10/2025 by magwood

Armenteira to Vilanova de Arousa, 24.75 km

https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/armenteira-vilanova-de-arousa-237747148

Having made a mammoth effort to wake Mikey this morning, which takes something upwards of half an hour, we are the very last to leave at 07:59. The first track is very close to albergue and we are immediately walking on the most beautiful path alongside a swiftly flowing stream through woodland of native trees and the occasional ubiquitous eucalyptus.

The clocks went back last night so it is a bit lighter for walking in the morning, which is very welcome

There’s a lovely resting spot with a café at 4 km where we treat ourselves to hot chocolate each and a really squishy brownie to share. And we discover we’re not the last pilgrims on the trail as a few others turn up after we’ve arrived.

There are many local Sunday walkers passing in the opposite direction making the most of their wonderful surroundings. And more speeding cyclists than I ever want to see – mostly considerate.

At around 6.5 km we transfer from the path alongside the fast flowing stream to a path alongside a fast flowing very wide river. The sun has come out to play and there’s a bit of a breeze and a blue, blue sky. What an absolute treat to be walking in Spain on a day like this.

Mikey takes advantage of every opportunity to climb up, crawl under or shimmy down any and every obstacle along the way. We stop to take a photo of a cormorant and he offers to scoot down the river bank to get a better view. The next photo opportunity is a heron, and then some ducks and another heron.

As we have already secured our accommodation for this evening, we decide we can just stroll along without any rush.

There are many more pilgrims on this route than I had anticipated. The albergue last night I think slept 17 people and I’m sure it was completely full. And there were lots of other people staying in other places. It’s possible to stay in the monastery, but we didn’t want to spend €50 per person to take advantage of it.

There are lots of opportunities for shadow pics again today

*Autumn leaves casting stunning colour*
*onto the river*

We stop again at Ponte Arnelas at around 13.5 km where we pop into a shop for Mikey to buy some cheese to make a chunky bocadillo and we sit on a wall to snack.

It seems that the walk along the riverbank is now over and as we leave town we are on a fairly main road with a decent shoulder, before soon transferring to a very quite country road.

Day five of walking and I’m suddenly aware that my backpack is sitting comfortably, I’m not feeling the weight and it’s not bothering me at all. Got there in the end.

As we’re in no rush we stop again at 16 km for a refreshing drink in a pretty bar

The last part of the walk is along the coastline on a sandy track overlooking beaches and rock formations and a sparkling turquoise sea. It’s very beautiful.

We cross the footbridge into Vilanova de Arousa after nearly 25 km. Mikey’s longest walk yet. He really is a star, never complaining and chatting away nineteen to dozen from start to finish

Camino Portuguese from Valença, stage 4

Posted on 26/10/2025 by magwood

Pontevedra to Armenteira 23.5 km

https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/pontevedra-armenteira-237550178

After leaving Pontevedra over the once-Roman bridge we continue through the suburbs and into the countryside until we reach the parting of the ways at around 4 km – right for the Portuguese central route and left for the Variante Espiritual. We bear off to the left.

After walking nearly 6.5 km, we are on a delightful narrow woodland track albeit rising quite steeply in places. But the incline pales into insignificance compared with what’s to come.

We eventually pass into a eucalyptus forest – a lovely soft path to walk on but with lots of the waste these trees produce just waiting to trip us up.

The massive monastery at Poio impressed us at almost 10km and we have a lovely grassy walk above the inlet between Poio and Combarro.

We stop in Combarro to buy supplies for tonight and a munch along the way and then call into a café and order hot chocolate for me and a smoothie for Mikey

And then the serious climb begins. Up, up, up and up some more, and then some more after that.

After the ridiculously steep climb from Combarro we continue ever upwards through a eucalyptus forest walking on a road initially (I don’t remember any vehicles passing). We come to a mirador overlooking the bay far below.

We continue on the road until 17 km when we are very happy to be diverted onto a lovely soft forest path, where we remain until we start our descent, first continuing on the soft path and then much more steeply on a narrow rocky track where the earth has been washed away leaving slippery boulders to navigate. I failed in my navigation skills and slipped on some mossy rock and landed very delicately on my backside. Luckily my backpack took most of the brunt and I didn’t jolt my back or hurt my legs or feet, but my left arm got rather scraged and bloodied. But arms aren’t crucial to walking so no big deal.

We arrive at the tiny hamlet of Armenteira at around 15:30 having covered 23.5 km with 577 metres of elevation gain. It was a challenging climb but incredibly the higher we climbed, the easier it got. We actually became acclimatised to the incline.

Mikey was an absolute star – not a single whinge – stoically climbing ever higher as though he’d been walking caminos forever.

We’re staying at the Junta albergue which is a ten minute walk out of the village, €10, very basic but good bathrooms and really nice dining area.

Mikey has joined me in the village, at the bar, where the local hombres are enjoying their Saturday afternoon with much lubrication, lots of smoking and incredibly loud voices.

We cross the road to the monastery and the lovely nun serving in the shop where they sell trinkets and homemade soap gives us a stamp in our credenciales and a lovely chat.

The cloister is beautiful and we join the 19:00 Pilgrim blessing service. I’m not at all religious and find the service rather long. Mikey stays for quite a while but decides to leave before the end. I stay on but it’s quite hard going.

Back at the albergue we eat the food we bought earlier and Mikey finds himself a comfortable spot to do a bit of scrolling.

Camino Portuguese from Valença, stage 3

Posted on 24/10/2025 by magwood

Redondela to Pontevedra 22 km

I realise after we have walked 2.5 km that I hadn’t started to record the walk. So the Wikiloc info is showing a shorter distance than we actually walked.

https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/cepeda-pontevedra-237381110

The day started with a round of alarms ringing from various directions. It didn’t particularly bother me because I had already been awake for quite some time, but I don’t understand how people can be so indifferent to their very immediate neighbours. I don’t sleep for long hours and if I’ve settled down for the night by 10-ish then I would expect to stir by 4-ish. Although I have to say that I started taking magnesium glycinate supplements a month or so ago and I really noticed a difference.

There was the same battle to wake Mikey which probably took the best part of thirty minutes. And being the considerate person that I am I couldn’t even shout at him.

When we did eventually leave the Albergue probably around 08:30 it was still quite dark, but when the light arrived it brought our first true glimpse of sunshine. Such a pleasure and a cue for our first shadow photo.

There are so many pilgrims today. I don’t know where they’re all coming from.

Apart from some initial road walking most of this stage has been on lovely soft woodland tracks.

We’ve had a couple of lung-busting climbs and equally steep descents.

We finally reach the summit of the second rise at a point where an enterprising caterer has positioned a refreshment trailer. I treat myself to a Fanta naranja and count twenty other pilgrims taking advantage of a rest after struggling up the hills.

There comes a point where we have to choose between going straight on or take a diversion which seems as though it might be a pretty walk rather than following the road. We decide on the diversion and it certainly is very pretty through woodland and alongside a stream. We check the map after we’ve followed the winding river for a good while and realise we haven’t seen another soul nor any camino arrows for a very long time. We decide that we must have missed a turning to take us back to the road. Further inspection of the map shows us that this delightful winding path alongside the Rio Tomeza will take us directly to our destination, almost entirely avoiding the road for many kilometres.

And some time further on, what we have come to consider our private and privileged path is invaded by other pilgrims and we start to see camino signs. We were happy to share our little bit of camino heaven.

This beautiful route took us right into the city with just a 15 minute walk to our accommodation. I booked this place (Nacama Hostel, €20 each, lovely cotton bedding and duvet) mainly because it looked very nice and has excellent reviews. But I also thought it was close to the old quarter of the city, which it isn’t particularly.

Mikey is out for the count soon after we arrive, so after a shower I wander through the streets and after 20 minutes find myself at the Ponte do Burgo (a medieval bridge with origins dating back to the 12th century, built on original Roman foundations) where we cross the Rio Lérez tomorrow to exit the city.

I worked hard for my glass of albariño today, walking all the way to the bridge and almost back before finding a bar that looked nice and was open. Strangely most bars have been closed during siesta hours. Not only am I served fabulous wine but am provided with the most delicious complimentary crisps. And it is sitting here that I am writing up today’s blog whilst I presume Mikey is still slumbering at the albergue (he was!)

Later Mikey finds us a pizza restaurant close by and we have our first proper meal of this camino.

Posted in Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Camino Portuguese, Camino Portuguese Variante Espiritual | Tagged Camino blog, Camino de Santiago blog, Camino de Santiago de compostela, Camino de Santiago., camino Portuguese, long distance hiking, Portugal, Portuguese route, Spain, travel | 8 Comments

Camino Portuguese from Valença, stage 2

Posted on 23/10/2025 by magwood

Porriño to Redondela 16 km

https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/porrino-redondela-237258500

Having struggled to wake Mikey out of his stupor this morning we finally set off at almost 9 o’clock, but it’s a very short stage we are walking today, so no matter.

This is a new experience walking with Mikey – obviously new because we haven’t done it before. Normally, when walking with another, you tend to walk at slightly different paces and part company from time to time along the way, meeting up again at some point further on.

This experience is very different because we are walking every step together and Mikey is a real chatterbox, which is lovely but doesn’t leave much time for contemplation.

There was no rain today (although it came down in some style during the night). But it remained persistently grey with only the tiniest glimpse of blue sky behind the clouds on rare occasions.

The scenery is pleasant enough but the walking is almost entirely on road – mostly very quiet with very few cars

We stop at a very pretty village called Mos at just over 6 km for a drink for me and a pain au chocolat for Mikey. There are several albergues in this village and it would make a nice place to stay as there are sufficient bars/restaurants here.

There are lots of pilgrims walking at the moment – many with just day packs so presumably with some sort of tour company. Or maybe they’re walking just a stage at a time. We met a group of Canadians, saw our Japanese friend a few times, took photos for a Brazilian peregrina. Mikey is very comfortable communicating with strangers – and does himself (and me) proud with his general demeanour.

Lovely friendly cat with different coloured eyes

There are a few climbs that get my lungs working overtime and one severe decline of 120m over less than 1km. I’m using my walking poles a lot less often these last few caminos and Mikey has taken them over for much of the time. But I’m quick to claim them back during an incline and most definitely needed them on that ridiculously steep downhill.

Mikey found it particularly difficult to coordinate his limbs when using the poles all day yesterday and most of today, and then towards the end of today’s stage he suddenly found his rhythm and is using them like a pro.

We arrived at Redondela at around 13:00 and easily found our lodgings for the night at Albergue A Conserveira – so much nicer than the junta Albergue I stayed in last time I was here (the bunk beds were pushed together in pairs so that you were to all intents and purposes sleeping with a stranger). This place has well laid out bathrooms, as much privacy as you could want in the dormitory cubicles and good kitchen facilities. What’s not to like? €15 each.

So far the albergues have only accepted cash payments which isn’t a problem now that I have visited the hole in the wall.

This afternoon I have sipped my first glass of Albariño. This is my favourite white wine, grown in Galicia and northern Portugal. The grapes are usually (I believe – I’m a sure someone will correct me if I’m wrong) grown from long stems so that the grapes stay free of mildew and rot.

6 Fun Facts About Albariño

On the Wine Day Calendar, August 1st is Albariño Day!
Some of the oldest Albariño vines are said to be up to 300 years old, though most are much younger. (For comparison, the oldest known grapevine in the world is over 400 years old.)
It’s common to see the word “Albariño” on Spanish labels, unlike other areas which label by region.
Spanish and Portuguese winemakers traditionally prioritize freshness with Albariño, though a few producers age it in oak for added complexity.
The grapes are tiny with thick skins. Not only does this make Albariño harder to produce, but it also results in a distinct raw-almond or citrus-pith-like bitterness from the skin’s phenol content.
Most Albariño vineyards have a very different look. Vines are trellised above your head on Pergolas to help keep grapes dry and rot-free.

Posted in Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Camino Portuguese, Camino Portuguese Variante Espiritual | Tagged Camino blog, Camino de Santiago blog, Camino de Santiago de compostela, Camino de Santiago., camino Portuguese, long distance hiking, Portugal, Spain, travel | 8 Comments

Camino Portuguese from Valença, stage 1

Posted on 22/10/2025 by magwood

Valença to Porriño 21.25 km

https://www.wikiloc.com/outdoor-trails/valenca-catedral-de-tui-porrino-237157055

We arrive at Valença station on time at 08.01 and our camino Portuguese begins. We stroll through the beautiful old town, complete with city walls, and spot a hotel – we pop in to ask for our first sello (stamp) in our credenciales (pilgrim’s passport). When walking only the last 100 km or so of a camino it is necessary to get two such sellos per stage in order to qualify for a compostela (the document that certifies a pilgrim has completed the Camino de Santiago). I have an abundance of compostelas and don’t always bother to collect one these days, but Mikey wants one and so he should.

We walk through the tunnel under the city walls and soon find ourselves at the bridge that crosses the Rio Miño into España and our phones automatically advance an hour as we walk over the border into Tui.

We called into the cathedral of Tui and claimed our second sello.

Rain was forecast on and off (mostly on) all day and down it came in various strengths for pretty much all of the stage. But it’s very warm here and wet weather gear creates a good deal of ‘glow’ in these conditions. Believe me, I was glowing good and proper and decided on occasion that wet clothes from rain were preferable to wet clothes from glow.

Part way through the morning we met up with a pilgrim who had taken a couple of photos of Mikey and me and wanted to share them. This was delightful and we chatted away for some time. But it soon became apparent that she liked very much to chat in quite a determined way and we were very glad to find a way to make some distance. We also met and chatted with a lovely Japanese woman with whom we coincided from time to time.

We came across a gaggle of happy schoolgirls – there must have been fifty of them – all walking with small daypacks. They were very keen to wish us ‘ buen camino’. We later discovered that they were all about Mikey’s age and were walking from Tui to Santiago. They must have had a backup vehicle to carry their gear, unless of course they were staying in places that didn’t require them to carry bedding and towels. They were lovely but it was good to make some space.

The first off road track was at 5.2 km and when I asked Mikey for his estimate off road v track he reckoned 65:35. I felt it was a little less road and little more track – maybe 50:50 but perhaps I am the eternal optimist.

A very welcome cafe at 10.5 km, at the village of Ribadelauro. Then there was another 10 km of beautiful tracks through woodland and a fair bit on the road, but not at all threatening.

The last time I walked this way I carried straight through from Tui to Redondela which was over 36 km, but I had been walking for 23 days and had built up some stamina (I was also eleven years younger). On that occasion I didn’t walk through Porriño but took a diversion along the river which was a beautiful walk. This time we walk right into the centre of town where we’re staying at the very nice Albergue Fonte dos Aloques €16 each including fluffy towel, cotton sheets, and blanket. Plus there’s a washer and dryer so we made good use of that for €6.

Mikey’s been a star today – quite a chatterbox. If the rest of the walk continues like today it will be a great success.

Posted in Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Camino Portuguese, Camino Portuguese Variante Espiritual | Tagged Camino blog, Camino de Santiago blog, Camino de Santiago de compostela, Camino de Santiago., camino Portuguese, long distance hiking, Portugal, Spain, travel | 12 Comments

Off we go

Posted on 22/10/2025 by magwood

We’re currently sitting on the train from Porto to Valença awaiting its 06:05 departure. Last night’s hostel was what you might expect from a cheap city establishment. It was ok – at least we had a room to ourselves to experience the frustration on both sides of me trying to get Mikey up and going so early In the morning. Oh well, we won’t have such time constraints again on this camino. In the event we walked out the door exactly when planned giving us plenty of time at the station to find our platform.

It’s warm here – 18c even at this unearthly hour.

Yesterday was a day of possible disasters. Starting at the point when I was just about to leave home and I knocked my treasured mug to the floor whereby it smashed to pieces. Not normally much of a disaster to lose a cup but this was very special, purchased many years ago from the shop in the cathedral at Santiago, depicting the botafumeiro. But I was only really cross with myself momentarily because I realised I can buy a new one very soon.

I dropped Lily with my lovely dog swap couple and drove on to my daughter‘s, just in time for her to take us to the airport. And so our adventure begins.

The flight was ok but we needed to make an autopilot landing as there was thick fog in Porto and the pilot couldn’t see to land.

Problem number two occurred at passport control. When the officer saw Mikey’s age and that I wasn’t his mother he asked for written permission from his parents to travel with me. It hadn’t occurred to any of us that this would be required. He wouldn’t let us through until he had an email from Rosie stating that all was in order and enclosing a copy of her passport. Apparently in Portugal a youngster has to be eighteen before they can freely travel without a parent. This kerfuffle delayed us by more than half an hour but he kindly printed a copy of the email for me to use on our return journey.

Then there was much confusion about transport from the airport. My research told me there was a bus that we could take but apparently it had to be the metro. I hate using ticket machines at stations but there was no option and I think we got the correct tickets, but in any case we didn’t need to present them on arrival so all was well.

There was a bit of a roundabout route to our accommodation but we finally arrived at Hostel Brazuca. We have a room to ourselves but have to share a bathroom. Good practice for the rest of our trip.

Posted in Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Camino Portuguese, Camino Portuguese Variante Espiritual | Tagged Camino blog, Camino de Santiago blog, Camino de Santiago de compostela, Camino de Santiago., camino Portuguese, long distance hiking, Porto, Portugal, Spain, travel | 8 Comments

A new adventure is about to begin…

Posted on 20/10/2025 by magwood

…an unaccustomed autumn camino. I’ve only walked in the spring previously. The timing is to accommodate my new camigo – my 14 year-old grandson Mikey, and most of our adventure will be during his half term break and a couple of in-service days.

Mikey is keen to earn a compostela and so we have to walk a minimum of 100 km. We have decided to start from the Portuguese/Spanish border and reach Santiago over six stages. Of course the days will be a lot shorter than I am used to – according to my weather forecast sunrise occurs at around 9 am.

I have walked all of the route before, the first couple of stages in 2014 when I walked from Lisbon along the central route of the Camino Portuguese, and the last few stages in 2018 when I walked the Camino Mozárabe from Almeria and took in a portion of the Portuguese coastal route and the Espiritual.

We fly into Porto tomorrow, arriving mid evening, so no time for sightseeing. We plan to catch the 06:00 train the following morning to Valença, where we will walk the short distance to the bridge over Rio Miño and cross into Spain to walk the 130 or so kilometres into Santiago de Compostela.

Mikey has taken a keen interest in my caminos from an early age and I was absolutely delighted when he asked if we could walk together some time. I have to admit to a few wavering moments in the intervening period. It will be a very different experience walking with a youngster, although he is extremely fit – a regular visitor to the gym who doesn’t think twice about cycling for 15 or 20 miles. I’m sure he will be a good deal fitter than me.

Unfortunately, the weather isn’t looking very agreeable for the first couple of days with lots of rain forecast. I don’t mind too much being rained upon, it’s just the resultant state of the tracks that I hate – walking through the mud is definitely no fun!

Posted in Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Camino Portuguese, Camino Portuguese Variante Espiritual | Tagged Camino blog, Camino de Santiago blog, Camino de Santiago de compostela, Camino de Santiago., camino Portuguese, long distance hiking, Spain, travel, Walking with my grandson | 35 Comments

Another day in Mérida

Posted on 12/05/2025 by magwood

Our first visit on our second day in Mérida was to the National Museum of Roman Art. An incredible building filled with an extraordinary amount of exhibits.

*The mosaics are so detailed and beautiful*

We then walked along the Puente Romano and sat and people (and turtle) watched in the sunshine for a while.

After lunch I set off to visit the Aqueducto de San Lázaro (where rain stopped play yesterday) which runs for an incredible 1.5 km. I find it totally baffling how these incredible structures were built in the first couple of centuries without any of the equipment or technology available today.

In close proximity is the Circo Romano (400 m long by 30 m wide with capacity for 30,000 spectators). I walked all the way around it but didn’t manage to find the entrance, although it’s supposed to be open every day. It was used for chariot races amongst other entertainment.

Then on to the Casa Anfiteatro, an archeological site with beautiful intricate mosaics.

All these sites are situated in or a short walk from the city centre. Mérida is truly a fascinating city.

And our accommodation could not have been better situated or more perfectly furnished.

Practically the entire train ride from Villafranca de los Barros to Mérida as far as the eye could see, to the horizon on both sides of the tracks, was lined with grape vines. On leaving Mérida by train today, there were olives initially but grown in a different way – planted very close together in rows looking like a giant (but not very challenging) maze. Further out there were various fruit trees and more vines and eventually cereal crops. Such a huge expanse of agricultural land!

We are en route to Málaga for what was meant to be a couple of days R&R, but we’ve already had those in Mérida so it must just be a holiday now.

Finally I feel safe to say that I’ve been really strong on this camino. I haven’t wanted to tempt fate before. Not even an inkling of a blister, no issues with knees or hips, both of which have stopped me in my tracks previously. Just a little backache towards the end of a couple of stages. I think I’ve taken just 4 or 5 paracetamol in total to ward off back pain.

Having failed twice in a row in 2019 (hip) and 2022 (knee) my 2024 camino felt like a ‘ make or break’ event – another failure and my camino days would be behind me. But it didn’t happen then, and it hasn’t happened now – so I feel confident that I have at least another camino in me and hopefully many more to come 🤞

Málaga is absolutely buzzing. Really as busy as I’ve seen it. On a Monday in mid May. We have another nice apartment situated in the historic (noisy) quarter. I think we’re both ready to go home now but have another day’s holiday first – well, someone’s got to do it and it might as well be me!

Posted in Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Via de la Plata, Via Serrana | Tagged Camino blog, Camino de Santiago blog, Camino de Santiago de compostela, Camino de Santiago., long distance hiking, Spain, travel, Via de la Plata, Via Serrana | 13 Comments

Well, that’s it then!

Posted on 10/05/2025 by magwood

Well dear readers, we are no longer pilgrims. Nina still had issues with her feet yesterday and didn’t want to walk the 27 km today to Torremejía. We talked about her getting transport to the end of the stage and then walking the 15 km into Mérida, our finishing point.

But it seemed silly for her to stay in a small town with nothing much to do when she could go directly to Mérida. Meanwhile I checked out the brief description on the very useful Gronze website that I use for planning and this is what it said…

Today’s stage – The stage is long and flat, with full exposure to the sun and, except in the first kilometers, very monotonous when advancing on long and straight dirt tracks. Today we do not have intermediate services, unless we deviate to Almendralejo extending the route by almost 5 km.

Tomorrow’s stage – The stage is flat, short and without intermediate services; in the first half we advance along the N-630 and, later, we walk through the open field directly towards the capital.

Neither sounds terribly inspiring and to be honest I’ve already walked a few days on straight uninspiring tracks. And who wouldn’t want to spend some quality time in Mérida, about which the guide also says…

Today we arrive in the capital of Extremadura. The city, founded by Emperor Augustus with the name of Augusta Emerita, became one of the most important settlements of the Roman Empire in Hispania; it preserves numerous monuments from that time and a magnificent National Museum of Roman Art.

So you see it really wasn’t a hard decision, especially as I have missed a couple of stages along the way and it already feels less like a ‘normal’ camino.

We caught the 08:09 train and were in Mérida before 09:00. I had booked a delightful Airbnb apartment in the historic centre but check-in isn’t until after 16:00. So, being a bit cheeky, I played the ‘ Pilgrim’ card and said that we were walking the camino and had heavy packs and would it be possible to leave them at the premises when we arrived. Whereby he responded that he had just returned from walking the Camino de Santiago and he knew exactly what I meant and yes, we could access the apartment as soon as we arrived as it was ready for use.

So it all seems a bit ‘meant to be’.

No sooner do we arrive in Merida than the sun pops out and the clouds disappear and we have blue sky and warm sunshine.

I was last in Mérida in 2015, passing through on my camino Mozárabe from Málaga. But on the day that I arrived I had unintentionally walked 45 km and was in no mood (or fit state) for sightseeing. Although I did walk past the aqueduct on the next stage of the VdlP.

I also visited in 2001 when doing a tour of some major Spanish cities with an ex. On that occasion we visited the Teatro Romano and we virtually had the place to ourselves with the bluest of skies as a backdrop.

First of all we visited the Roman Theatre and Amphitheatre. What a stunning location just 6 minutes’ walk from our apartment.

Although we arrived before 10:00 there were many guided tours taking in place with tour guides spouting via microphones to large groups. We did however arrive before it became too crowded and were able to enjoy it well enough. It truly is a sight to behold.

We passed by two other ancient sites the – Portico del Foro

and the Templo de Diana

As we made our way to the Alcazaba and Puente Romano

Then partook of a couple of glasses of wine before buying some healthy food for a giant salad.

Next on the list is the Acueducto de los Milagros, the remains of which are absolutely fabulous.

But there’s yet another aqueduct 18 minutes’ walk away – so we go for the full house. Unfortunately we’ve been walking for about ten minutes when a few drops of rain fall from the sky, and then a few more and then there’s a huge clap of thunder, a sudden gale of wind, and the heavens open. Luckily we find shelter in the overhang of a building and wait it out until it all calms down about 15 minutes later. So we only get to see a bit of the second aqueduct from a distance because we decide to hot-foot it back to our apartment.

That’s enough sightseeing for one day. We still have tomorrow to do the rest.

Via de la Plata, stage 8, Zafra – Villafranca de los Barros, 20 km

Posted on 09/05/2025 by magwood

Elevation gain 202

Elevation loss 311

Total distance walked 342 km

A short walk out of the city takes us immediately onto a track. It’s good that there have been no industrial areas to walk through either into or out of the city.

There’s a bit of up and down after a few kms, but largely this stage is pretty flat.

Nina is feeling much better as far as her digestive problems are concerned and,after a couple of days rest from walking and some decent food yesterday, she is walking alongside me today. But she’s still having issues with her feet – the upper outside of both feet are causing her pain.

We reach a village at 8:20, and leave 10 minutes later without finding any bars or shops open.

Looking across the landscape I see a chimney billowing a plume of white smoke – maybe in support of the new Pope?

A week or more ago, I broke the screensaver on my phone leaving a good portion of it crazed and difficult to see-through. I had asked in several mobile phone shops whether they sold replacements but had no luck, until yesterday in Zafra. There was no stock on the shelf but there was a laser cutting machine. The saleswoman dialled in my model details and off it went cutting to perfection and then she fitted it for me with not a bubble in sight, and all for €10

There are a few almond groves amongst all the vines and olives. And we’re actually seeing more pilgrims, though only a few. Again there is a lot of cloud cover, no sign of the sun peeping through yet at 9 o’clock.

The scenery has changed a lot now – less cultivation and more scrubland with a few herds of cows. And now the path has narrowed and has frequent collections of water to be navigated.

A lot of the olive trees hereabouts are obviously very ancient with huge gnarled trunks but with only a small amount of growth on top. Presumably if they were allowed to grow wild, they would be very large.

There’s very little bird song today.

We stopped at 13 km for a quick break, but are soon on our way again. At 15 km, having crossed some rail tracks, we have to spend a short while walking along the road before returning to track.

Villafranca de los Barros is a large town but like a lot of towns we’ve passed through, including Zafra, it’s oddly quiet. Very few people wandering the streets.

We have gone from one extreme (parador) to another (albergue) today. I definitely know which one I prefer! When we arrive there’s a guy waiting for opening time over an hour away. Nina and I leave our backpacks and find a cafe for a drink while we wait. When we return, there’s a whole line of packs stacked behind ours and so when the hospitalero arrives at 13:00 we are second and third in line to claim a bed. We’ve got a room with two bunks to ourselves and our washing has been taken for a spin. (€15).

Via de la Plata, stage 7, – Caldazilla de Los Barros – Zafra, 19 km

Posted on 08/05/2025 by magwood

Elevation gain 120 m

Elevation loss 166 m

Total distance walked 322 km

I hit a dirt track immediately on leaving the village which is good, but am immediately bombarded with pig smell which is not so good.

Well, I stand corrected. I have just had the most wonderful experience – being greeted by three beautiful friendly piggies who were in a field of grass. They rushed up to the fence when they saw me coming. They all wanted contact – to touch my hand with their snouts (and who was I to refuse). I dallied for quite some time – they were delightfully friendly and had obviously been well treated by their humans. I hope they remain in that happy state in a field for the rest of their days.

When I tear myself away I pass olive groves and cereal crops.

Again I’m the only pilgrim on the trail, which suits me just fine. I don’t know how many people are walking at the moment but they seem to be able to melt away en route

I see many vineyards alongside the path, also cereal crops and occasional olive groves. I come across a few water features on the track which need to be negotiated with care. I’m glad I wasn’t walking along here a week ago during the rainy days – I’m sure it would’ve been much worse.

The barbed wire fencing has put in another appearance, but in these vast areas of crop fields I guess there wouldn’t be enough stone around to build the walls. I can hear a faint ringing of cowbells in the distance but no view of any animals or any people for that matter. The sun has come out and it’s a lovely temperature at the moment

Luckily, I’ve only got 18 km to walk today. Nina is on the mend but still feels it wise to take the bus into Zafra today so I shall see her there.

I actually saw a zitting cisticola today as it flew past singing her happy song. Although she was ever present for the first many days, I haven’t recorded her much recently. We have a new bird recording today – the European Bee-eater.

I won’t be taking any food breaks en route today because I haven’t got any food. At Pensión Rodríguez where we stayed yesterday (which is really a truck stop) I was rather put out to say the least in the restaurant. I asked about food and was presented with the menu. I chose a mixed salad and then the waiter flipped the menu over so that I could choose my second course. I didn’t want a second course – I don’t eat a lot during the day. A small salad was duly served, it was good enough and hit the mark. But when I went to pay he wanted the full price of a three course meal. I argued him down from €9 to €7 but still thought he was ripping me off. I was determined not to eat there again in the evening and so ate almost everything I was carrying in my pack, which probably wasn’t a bad thing as some of it had been travelling for quite a while. Today all I have are two small Biscoff biscuits, a third of an apple and a pot of very very salty almonds. I’m not going far and I’m sure I will survive.

As I’m about to cross a road cutting across the track a big lorry pulls onto the narrow path ahead of me. It more than fills the path and I’m glad he’s in front and not behind because there’s nowhere I could go to let him pass.

Walking past an olive grove I hear a sound like a farmer hoeing the ground or the snap of someone pruning a tree. When I look I can’t see anybody but I can hear the sound coming from different directions. So I decide to turn on the bird app and low and behold it was a European Stonechat and indeed the sound was similar to tapping two stones together. I’m really enjoying this app.

There are a lot of existing and new plantings of vines and olives.

I reach the village of Puebla de Sancho Pérez at 15 km and stop for a rest and a quick drink. The final few kms are on a mixture of busy and minor roads and then track until reaching the residential outskirts of Zafra.

Nina meets me at the Parador. Lap of luxury could well describe our accommodation – a fabulous room with beautiful bedding (so welcome) and big fluffy towels. We wander around the historic quarter for a while. Nina buys herself some new walking shoes and we get a couple of drinks and a tapa before returning to the parador where I indulge in a luxurious bath – I can’t remember the last time I had a bath – probably ten years ago.

We booked the room ages ago for a very reasonable ‘early bird’ price. And we decided that we must do something similar towards the end of any future caminos we walk.

I’ve actually stayed in this parador before – in 2001, under very different circumstances. But whatever the circumstances, it’s most definitely a wonderful treat.

Zafra is extremely quiet, hardly anyone around. And the weather is very dull which is a shame.

We wander out again in the evening to get a bit of shopping for tomorrow. We stop at a bar/restaurant for supper but when we enquire about food we are told that the kitchen wouldn’t open for more than an hour. We turn to leave when the owner stops us. He has brought the chef with him and says that if we choose something simple it can be prepared for us. We thankfully accept and have a lovely meal. The first time we have eaten properly for many days. It was fab. Then we returned to the parador and treated ourselves to cocktails. What a wonderfully indulgent day.

Birds of the day…

Crested Lark

Corn Bunting

European Bee-eater

House Sparrow

Cetti’s Warbler

Common Quail

Common Nightingale

Zitting Cisticola

Eurasian Collared-Dove

European Stonechat

Thekla’s Lark

European Greenfinch

Iberian Magpie

Spanish Sparrow

Common Wood-Pigeon

European Goldfinch

European Serin

Via de la Plata, stage 6, Monesterio – Caldazilla de Los Barros, 28 km

Posted on 07/05/2025 by magwood

*Plus the 3 km from Monesterio before i turned Wikiloc on*

Elevation gain 223 m

Elevation loss 351 m

Total distance walked 303 km

The exit from town is short and I’m soon on a quiet road alongside an olive grove. There are oak trees covering the hills in the distance. I’m very soon onto a dirt track alongside a stream. The stone wall enclosures now replace most of the barbed wire – I do love a stone wall.

The path is very rustic and uneven but it’s nevertheless very pretty.

My hands are so cold that I wrap them with my buff neck warmer and the cap that I made last year to try and stave off the dreaded numb fingers.

Well, the rustic path wasn’t meant to be walked on. Ahead see the two guys who were in front of me and another guy coming back in my direction. It’s so lucky that this local Spanish man was out for a walk this morning and could tell us that we were on the wrong path. We had obviously missed a sign and had to go a considerable way back.

The walk is not going in my favour this morning. When I go to look at my Wikiloc recording to see how far this diversion has taken me, I realise I haven’t turned it on. So I wait until I get back to the point of my error and turn it on. maps.me tells me that at this point I am 3 km from Monesterio. I reckon that I’ve walked an additional 1.5 km on my little excursion. Oh well, as a camino friend of mine wrote when she had to return to her Hostal to retrieve her hat “Hey, we’re here to walk”!

*The sign that we missed – hiding in the grass’*

I see an innovative way of protecting young saplings from predators – a cage of bed springs – not much goes to waste in Spain.

There’s more livestock on the route today, lots of cows and I’ve just seen my first field of black pigs for many stages.

We’ve had to cross many cattle grids on these caminos – some with gaps much further apart than others. All of them make me anxious, and I have quite big feet – it must be much worse for those with dainty feet.

The scenery finally changes after 8.5 km and the oak trees suddenly disappear and are replaced by rolling landscape – a patchwork of fields in the distance, and mountains far beyond.

I’m glad to say it’s brightened and warmed up considerably. There is a good cover of cloud and a bit of a breeze so it isn’t too hot, which is a very good thing because there’s no shade.

I stop for a break at about 11 km and I’m just pondering the fact that I haven’t seen anyone else since the two guys ahead of me who have long ago sailed over the horizon, but then just as I’m about to get ready to move off a couple walk by – they are the only ones I’ve seen, no one else at all.

Someone asked me if I see any of the birds that I record and I probably see lots of them but I don’t necessarily recognise them. But just as I sit here a bird alights on a bush next to me and starts singing. Quickly I start the app and discover it’s a corn bunting, although it looks rather like a sparrow to me. I’ve also had several occasions when a lark has landed on the path ahead of me and I hope today I managed to take a decent photo of it – which lark it is I have no idea – probably crested as it has a top knot – although comparing it to the image at the end it may well be the Thekla’s lark

The landscape is now back to newly ploughed fields, There are also great swathes of hillside covered in black which I can only assume must be solar farms – I suspect I shall find out soon enough.

There have been a very few wildflowers today, a couple of stretches of daisies and that is it

All three staple crops are growing here: barley – by far the most common, wheat and oats.

At about 17.5 km I pass a pig unit. It’s just bleak, absolutely vile.

I pass several more disgusting pig units before I get to the village of Fuente de Cantos at 21.5 km. I stupidly bypass all the bars in the village and end up without the nice cold drink I’d been looking forward to for a while. This town is the recognised stage end but I’m going to walk on to the next village six and a bit kilometres further so that I have a shorter distance into Zafra tomorrow.

The last stretch is a wide, arrow straight track between crop fields with a lot more vile pig units with the most appalling sickening smell. When I’ve walked in Extremadora previously the pigs I’ve seen have all been happy chappies roaming wild in the acorn groves of the dehesas. I suppose this area is where the cheap jamon comes from.

The last part of this stage has become quite uncomfortable for me. I’ve got a bit of a backache and the sun has fought its way through the clouds and is bearing down quite hard, and there is not one spec of shade – although there is a bit of a breeze, so that helps.

There are vines growing closer to Calzadilla de Los Barros and there are a lot of horses.

Calzadilla is another very quiet town with an albergue and a hostel, one shop, one restaurant and a huge church.

Nina took the bus and is waiting for me at Pensión Los Rodríguez. It’s a rather run down place – clean enough, and cheap at €15 per person, with lashings of hot water. But it would be hard to recommend it.

A lorry driver who was lunching at the pensión came over to chat to us and asked all sorts of questions about the camino. He lives in Sárria so knows all about peregrinos.

Someone asked if I could include a birdsong recording – so here you are together with the birds it recognised.

Other birds recorded today…

Eurasian Blackcap

European Goldfinch

Great Tit

Common Nightingale

European Serin

Cetti’s Warbler

Corn Bunting

Eurasian Blue Tit

Eurasian Collared-Dove

Eurasian Hoopoe

Rock Sparrow

Spanish Sparrow

Eurasian Tree Sparrow (rare)

Via de la Plata, stage 5, Almadén de la Plata – El Real de la Jara 15 km

Posted on 06/05/2025 by magwood

Elevation gain 258 m

Elevation loss 256 m

Total distance walked 275.5 km

Gripe of the day – our accommodation last night was fine, but …there were thick plastic mattress protectors which were absolutely not fine. I don’t think I slept a wink until about 03:00 when I decided to remove the offending article. If that happens again I shall certainly remove it immediately.

We are only planning to walk a short half stage today. The full stage is over 33 km and although I’m up for it Nina is suffering with tummy problems and is feeling a bit weak.

We leave our accommodation via a back door as the bar doesn’t open in the mornings and exit town via a bullring no less – not quite up to Sevilla standards but a bullring nevertheless.

There’s a solar farm just outside the village.

We are immediately on a track and are soon walking past ancient oaks and a field of oats

Under normal circumstances Nina is a much stronger walker than me and is most often to be found leading the way, as you can tell from the many photographs of her back. But for a couple of days she has been suffering with a tummy bug and it has left her a bit weakened so we will take a short stage to the not quite halfway point and maybe take a taxi to the stage end. Perhaps we shouldn’t have squandered a day at the end of the Via Serrana but we have a date with a parador in Zafra and we need to be there in two days.

It’s quite cool this morning – my weather app says 11° but luckily there is no wind to cool it further. I sometimes struggle to keep my hands warm in these conditions as I suffer from Raynaud’s disease. One of various gifts my father bestowed upon me. I first realised it was an issue when I started work as a typist in my late teens and just couldn’t move my fingers when they got cold. Fortunately it seems less prevalent in advancing years, but yesterday when it turned a bit chilly my fingers turned a mottled white/purple and my fingertips lost feeling. Not a huge problem when your only job is to walk, but a bit uncomfortable nevertheless.

I pass an oak that is planted outside a border fence whereas all its friends are planted inside. It seems to be leaning out across the fence to try and reach its buddies.

Apparently today will be a day of many gates (someone mentioned sixteen) as we are walking through grazing pastures although I’ve not seen any evidence of grazers so far.

The first two gates are very easy to open and close which is not always the case. There is a beautiful villa built amongst this amazing landscape, how lucky to have this parque nautural as your front, back and every which-way garden. It is once again an absolute privilege to walk through the Sierra Norte today.

The signage is excellent as I would expect on a major camino. On the Serrana it was much better than I anticipated but not always consistent and I wouldn’t have wanted to walk without a track downloaded onto my phone.

I’m really enjoying the bird ID app and love it when we have some new names on the list. I normally turn it on for about a minute or two, but on one occasion I’d forgotten it was turned on and it continued recording whilst the phone was in my pocket for 30 or more minutes. There was a very long list of birds on that occasion including, very strangely, a mute swan, which may possibly have been due to the rustling of the phone against my shorts pocket – who knows – but I’m guessing there weren’t many swans around that day.

On one occasion I sent a recording to a birder friend of mine without listening to it first. By the time I did listen to it, I was absolutely appalled that what you could hear most of all above the birdsong was my extreme huffing and puffing as I was walking up a hill. I quickly messaged my friend apologising and she responded saying thank goodness, I thought you’d had an accident

I pondered yesterday on the lack of cash crops in this area. But maybe the profit is the abundant bird life here in these oak plantations.

I was lucky enough to do a woodworking course fairly recently in fact I was extremely lucky in being able to do three of their wonderful courses. It’s run by an organisation attached to the church in my neighbouring village of Avonmouth and is tutored by some very skilled and wonderfully helpful and patient people. I made many things I’m really pleased with. They have a laser cutting machine and I prepared some artwork to engrave upon some wooden coasters made from offcuts. I never quite had time to complete that task but hopefully I can return some time in the future to get them done. There are four designs – none of them mine – all memes I’ve seen on social media, but in my mind, all camino related and absolutely relevant to everyday life…

I just met the friendliest dog – a shaggy white mastin – behind a gate and although he looked friendly, you never do know, until you get close, whether they’re going to bite your hand off given a chance. But this guy was charm personified. He just wanted some connection – every time I put my hand up to his nose, he pirouetted, jumping with all four feet off the ground, and sprung around in circles like a newborn foal and then came back for another hand touch and did it all over again. Such a charming boy.

And talking of dogs my little border terrier is having a whale of a time whilst I’m away. On one of the above mentioned woodworking courses, I met a lovely lady who also has a little pooch and we have entered into a dog swap arrangement. I am receiving daily photos of Lily either reclining in the lap of luxury or on some jolly adventure – I’m not sure that she’ll want to come home. Thank you Nichola.

I’ve been so busy chatting to you guys that I somehow miss a turn. Luckily I come to a point where the track somehow doesn’t look right so I check my phone and can see I’m quite a way from where I should be. So I’m now walking back to find out where I went wrong.

My mistake happened moments after communing with the lovely dog. Goodness knows how I missed the turn – it was very well signposted – obviously my excitement about my new doggy best friend.

Well it really is a doggy day and my delay from the first encounter created an opportunity to meet the second one, who was similar looking and similarly friendly. She was accompanying a farmer and a small herd of goats and immediately rushed to my side for as much petting as I could give before the goats passed by in a very skittish fashion (I think she may have been my best friend’s mum!)

*These icons reminded me of my little granddaughter’s book*

There are lots of horses in these here hills. We see several herds dotted about the landscape. They seem to be well cared for as there are many deposits of hay in various locations.

After 10.5 km we find ourselves on a beautiful narrow winding dirt track through the trees, passing one of the many waterholes in this area. It doesn’t last long before we are back on a white gravel track but whilst it lasted it was magic.

In the latter part of this mini stage we walk along an arrow straight track and I notice the first stone wall enclosures that I’ve seen since setting out all those days ago. That’s not to say there haven’t been any, but if there have, I haven’t seen them.

We arrive at El Real de la Jara after walking 15 km (including my 0.8 km detour) and stop at a bar for a cold drink. I ask whether it’s possible to organise a taxi to the end of the stage at Monesterio. The helpful bar man (who was babysitting his two month daughter) immediately organised a ride for us! We just had to wait for the driver to eat his lunch. In no time he arrived and transported us along the autovia to our destination (a very reasonable €35).

For all the 20 km of the taxi ride the landscape remained the same – oak trees dotted through fields. They cover a vast area

We are staying at Hostal Extremadora (at some point in today’s journey we have crossed from Andalusia into Extremadura) where there just happened to be one twin room still available. €20 for normal people, €15 for pilgrims + €2 to rent a towel (I’m so over using a microfibre towel – in my opinion a very well spent €2!).

I left Nina in the room to rest whilst I trotted across the road to buy some bread and was then drawn to a bar for a glass of wine and a plate of rustic aceitunas. Both were delicious so it only made sense to repeat the experience. After which I returned to shower and do my daily clothes wash. Now, I would have to recommend that the reverse of this sequence is advisable. Climbing on the bed to secure my washing line to the curtain pole after a couple of vinos was something of a balancing act – but I came out unscathed.

I have to report that the shower here at Hostal Extremadura is, by a very long chalk, quite the best shower experience of this camino. Lashings of hot water (I’m ashamed to say I didn’t hold back) and a shower head that is actually attached to the wall (I think there has only been one other shower where the head hadn’t broken from its fixing and had to be held by hand).

Monasterio is a large town with every amenity a pilgrim could hope for.

Todays birds…

Common Chaffinch

Common Nightingale

Corn Bunting

Eurasian Blackbird

Eurasian Blue Tit

Eurasian Collared-Dove

Eurasian Golden Oriole

Eurasian Hoopoe

Eurasian Nuthatch

European Serin

Great Tit

House Sparrow

Long-tailed Tit

Rock Sparrow (rare)

Sardinian Warbler

Spanish Sparrow

Wood Lark (rare)

Western Subalpine Warbler (rare)

Trepidatious traveller – camino blog

Assessment of clothes and gear

Life after the camino, (falling in love with Santiago) 24 and 25 May 2013

And we’re off! Day 1, 16 April 2013, St Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles, 27.1 km

Two days in Santiago

Camino Portuguese from Valença, Stage 6

Camino Portuguese from Valença, Stage 5

Camino Portuguese from Valença, stage 4

Camino Portuguese from Valença, stage 3

Camino Portuguese from Valença, stage 2

6 Fun Facts About Albariño

Camino Portuguese from Valença, stage 1

Off we go

A new adventure is about to begin…

Another day in Mérida

Well, that’s it then!

Via de la Plata, stage 8, Zafra – Villafranca de los Barros, 20 km

Via de la Plata, stage 7, – Caldazilla de Los Barros – Zafra, 19 km

Via de la Plata, stage 6, Monesterio – Caldazilla de Los Barros, 28 km

Via de la Plata, stage 5, Almadén de la Plata – El Real de la Jara 15 km

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Follow the adventure…

Four caminos in one…Caminos de Madrid, Salvador, Primitivo & Fisterra

Join me in a stroll along the Camino Mozárabe & VdlP

or perhaps along the coast on the Camino del Norte

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Archives

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