Day 34, 19 May 2013, Muxia to Finisterre 32 km

So, the last day began bright and clear and we left Muxia for our last day of walking. After a while on the road we were directed onto a lovely soft sandy path that led through more pine and eucalyptus forests. Unfortunately we had to contend with some very serious hills, but I have learned to pace myself and tackle these inclines with regular long strides at a steady pace.

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All the tracks in the area have been lined with beautiful granite dry stone walling. So much work, I guess, many years ago. There is an abundance of granite in this area, with much being used in public areas. Although during the last couple of days we have seen that the older houses are now built of a yellow stone, rather than the slate and granite of previous villages.

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There is only one option to stop for refreshments today, at about the half way point, 16 km. As we get closer, the track changes to mud and we have to pick our way through deep bogs in the hope that the mud doesn’t reach the top of our boots.

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After a late breakfast of toast for me and omelette for Ella, we set off again. Still in the mud, which gets deeper and deeper, although of course we eventually come to more hills where the surface water has drained away and the path becomes drier.

It is a long trek after four days of around 20 km, but eventually we can see the ocean again and hope that we don’t have too far to go. There are no distance markers today and we can only judge by how long we have been walking and our sense of how fast we are going. All our senses tell us we should be in Finisterre but we can only see a town in the far distance. After yet more steep hills we descend into the town and seek out the albergue where we have reserved beds.

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After settling in we go for a drink and bump into Sheila, an Irish girl we met a couple of nights ago and after collecting our certificate for completing the camino between Santiago and Finisterre, we meet up with Sheila and a German girl called Jessica for a bite to eat.

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I don’t stay long though because I am determined to walk to the lighthouse to see the sunset. I was really cross with myself last night in Muxia that I did not return to the sunset point, and was not going to miss it again. So I left the others, went back to the albergue to don my walking clothes and set off on the 3.5 km walk (uphill of course – all the way). There was a huge rainbow, with really strong colours dipping into the sea. As I walk further uphill I can see both ends of the rainbow, but they are too far apart to capture them with my iPad, which is a shame because I don’t remember seeing both ends of a rainbow clearly before.

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I arrived at the lighthouse in perfect time to see the sun dropping behind some cloud that was hanging above the sea and waited for thirty minutes until it dropped into the ocean at exactly the time it was meant to, 21:58.

A fitting end to an amazing journey.

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About magwood

Trepidatious Traveller - camino blog is about preparing for and walking the Camino de Santiago. Many future pilgrims have found the blog useful and inspiring, and many who have no plans to walk the camino have simply enjoyed the dialogue http://www.magwood.me
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14 Responses to Day 34, 19 May 2013, Muxia to Finisterre 32 km

  1. Kim says:

    Fantastic 🙂

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  2. Marian Liebmann says:

    Wow, amazing, I’m quite speechless at your achievement!
    Marian

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  3. Janice Tyler says:

    So proud of your achievement Maggie – well done to you both. You are AMAZING xxxxx

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  4. Bill & Betty says:

    We feel completely worn out with sore feet sat here following you both, very well done, Dave should let you put your feet up for a couple months now !!
    With our kind regards
    Bill & Betty B

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  5. Heather says:

    Brilliant xxx

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  6. David Wolfe says:

    What an incredible achievement very well done Both of you.

    Your efforts have raised pledges of 750 Euros for Cudeca the Cancer Care Hospice, plus the pledges for Mc Millan Nurses in the UK.

    I am so very proud of you.

    David xxxx

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  7. Maureen Gillespie says:

    Felicitaciones!

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  8. Lyn Harrison says:

    Indeed an amazing journey and now with a beautiful end. Having slogged through all that rain you deserved to be rewarded with the best nature could manage. A stunning rainbow and wonderful sunset. What memories you will have to share with us all. Thanks a million for already sharing the journey with us in words and pictures. i’ve so enjoyed the tale. Only now catching up with you on Tuesday morning having been sailing with JK’s sister over the past three days of this holiday weekend in Denmark (no internet at sea). We stopped overnight on an island and I walked around it on Sunday looking out at the sea at just the time you were glimpsing the Atlantic. I’m glad that I was thinking of you at the time. Lyn XXX

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  9. Sue & Keith says:

    Fantastic. You two have done brilliantly. Hats off to you both. Wonderful story telling and great pics. xxxx

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  10. that’s my favorite picture of you Maggie, with the sea behind you. Liana is looking forward to seeing you, but is enjoying her holidays with her new friends. i feel a book coming on the back of this, then the film. Helen mirran playing you Angelina Jolie playing Ella. box office hit. So; up on the podium both of you and shake that bottle of cave all over yourselves. cheers and load clapping from Andalusia.

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  11. pfliegel3 says:

    Congratulations magwood. I did the same some two month later so that I know how difficult but also how nice it was. Buen Camino.

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  12. jeanmdunlap says:

    What albergue did you stay in Santiago? Can you stay just 1 night ?

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    • magwood says:

      I stayed in a Dutch run albergue called ‘The Last Stamp’ or ‘El Ultimo Sello’ (I’m not sure which). It was very comfortable with cotton sheets and duvet provided in a cabin type bunk with electric point and individual light. Quite luxurious for an albergue, but not cheap – €15 in 2013 which had gone up to €18 last year. This year I think I will try the Hospederia San Martin Pinario, although I’m not sure of the cost of pilgrim accommodation.

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