10 May 2014
The hostel in Tomar is quite new, and we stayed in a pilgrims’ dormitory with four sets of bunks. The beds are very stable (not rickety and creaky like so many, with new orthopaedic mattresses, and we were provided with crisp bed linen. It is located directly in the centre of the town and I would highly recommend it. Hostel 2300 Tomar, +351 927 444 144
We were joined in the dormitory by a Dutch woman, a Swedish woman who lives in Australia, a Spanish and a French man, and another woman who I didn’t speak to and I don’t know where she is from, and the two German guys we have met from time to time were staying in the hostel but not in our room. They had made a diversion to Fatima the day before. Three of the guys in our room are seriously considering taking a hop and skip by public transport to Porto to rest for a few days and hopefully revive sufficiently to continue from there. Problems include badly swollen feet, tendinitis, and a fall that caused a badly bruised knee and a dislodged big toenail.
I was last to bed (as usual) and was pleased to see that the two sets of French windows had been left open to give plenty of fresh air. There is often a bit of a tussle over windows, but all seemed to be in harmony last night. Before I managed to drop off there were loud voices and much giggling drifting up from the street, and for some reason the group responsible had decided to plant themselves directly below our window. It went on for a long time, during which I considered getting up and chucking a bottle of water over them. I discovered this morning that Elly (and probably everyone else in the room) was harbouring the same thoughts.
This morning we had options at the beginning of tody’s walk – by road (recommended in wet weather) or by riverside track (for the summer months).
We opted for the riverside walk through a forested area, which was beautiful. Lots more lovely flowers today, including an orchid(?) that I have not seen before, foxgloves which are always a delight and remind me of (UK) home, and a tiny-flowered wild honeysuckle. Lots of people report getting lost in the eucalyptus forest, but the signage has been improved, except for a stretch when I was not at all sure if we were going the right way, but eventually we came across an arrow at an intersection of tracks, so all was well.
I have been considering the significance of the yellow arrows in relation to other walks of life, and have come up with the following analogy. As a parent, when out at what you consider to be a secure place, you sometimes relax and don’t keep a constant eye on the children. Suddenly you remember your parental role and glance up to reassure yourself that they are where they should be, but you can’t see them and a minor panic sets in. You know they must be safely around somewhere close by and keep calm, but a definite concern is bubbling under the surface. Just when you are really starting to worry, they suddenly appear in front of you, where you knew they were all the time. Well, that feeling of relief is how it feels when an arrow appears where you knew it should be but were not 100% confident that you were on the right track.
We walked a short way on quiet country roads and stopped after 9 km for a hot drink, and I joined Elly and ordered a pastel de nata to set me up for the morning. We had passed some walkers going in the opposite direction and there was a group of 6 or 7 in the cafe. It didn’t occur to us until later that these were pilgrims on their way to Fatima, where there is a special celebration in the next couple of days.
The Portuguese love their gardens and it is an absolute delight to wander through the tiny villages and bigger towns and peer over their walls. However it is not usually necessary to look over the wall as the abundance of flowers, especially roses, are not contained in the garden but flow over the wall in a riot of colour. They also tend their allotments with regimental precision, all the veggies in neat rows and standing to attention.
Although we walked on some roads today, perhaps 50:50 road to track, all were quiet with very little traffic. We stopped in a forest after 17 km for a boots off and foot inspection break. I was a little concerned that I had a bit of a ‘hotspot’ on my heel and applied a bit of tape. Whoever said the Portuguese route was flat, has been lying. Today we encountered many hills and were up and down more often than a tart’s knickers!
We found a lovely meadow to sit down and eat our lunch, but by the time we had passed through the long grass to a shady tree, I looked down and saw what I am sure was a tick on my trousers, so I hot footed it back out again and made a thorough inspection to ensure I wasn’t carrying any passengers. 500 metres further on, we found a tiny hamlet with a tiny church and we sat on the steps in the shade and ate our provisions.
We then had an interminable slog along the road with absolutely no shade and we were getting concerned at our diminishing water levels. It had been cool and cloudy when we set off, but by 10:30 the sun had burned the cloud away and it was hot, albeit tempered by a gusty breeze. By mid afternoon it was very hot and we were both on the last dregs of our water supply with at least another 5 km to walk. There were no bars to top up and no fountains, and no one around to ask, until we eventually saw a couple of elderly ladies sitting in their garden and we asked them for a top up. We were given cold water from the fridge by the lady of the house which tasted like nectar, and we attempted to chat for a few minutes with her mother and aunt, both in their mid eighties. They were happy to pose for this photo.
The last section went on forever, and we were definitely flagging. Just when we thought our destination should be coming into sight, the camino was cut in half by major roadworks – literally. There was a traffic diversion indicated but we didn’t fancy how many unknown km’s that might entail, so we scrambled over the bank and down onto the red clay below and picked our way to the road, from where it was just a kilometre or so to the albergue. We are staying at Albergaria Pinheiros where the accommodation is in separate rooms – we have a twin room with bedding and towels for 10 euros each. Our host and his mother are very helpful and kind – to the extent that when I asked where I could get a glass of wine, he sent his mother to fetch me one from his own supply. How’s that for service!
Just to give some appreciation that not all tiled buildings are equal, this has to be one of the worst examples of the many very ugly square boxes of houses that are tiled in hideous patterns.
Today was a hard walk, even though a lot of it was through beautiful countryside and charming villages. We have no major problems. My blister is well on the mend and I didn’t get any new ones today. There seem to be more people falling by the wayside on this route than I experienced on the Frances route. Maybe because it is flatter people are walking harder and putting too much strain on their feet. I am glad I have Elly to pace me and keep me out of trouble. We are getting on really well, and we even laugh at each other’s jokes – what more could you ask of a friend?
A tart’s knickers…oh boy – that had me giggling. You make this such a great read. Glad to hear there are no new blisters popping up.
I walked half your distance today and am exhausted. It helps me identify with your experience!
At the village of Rabaçal, do not miss the cheese and if you have time to visit the factory.
We missed the factory at rabaçal, but sampled the cheese last night in Alvorge.
No blisters. Check. Cold water. Check. A glass of wine. Check. Yes, one ugly house.
I am so pleased I found myself here by way of Jo. I enjoy reading about your adventure and look forward to more each morning. Your writing style flows nice and easy and your descriptions are spot on. The analogy of the heartbeat between seeing one’s child and then not is gripping.
Thanks so much for your feedback. Do you have a name you want to share?
See. I’m Tess. 🙂
Hi Mag and Elly
After Leziria of Tejo (Tagus) with their fields with tomatoes, corn, cabbage and vines, now the caminho becomes more difficult. Appear pines, oak trees and a horrible import eucalyptus from Australia.
This week-end are on pilgrimage around 35,000 (thirty five thousand pilgrims) in the direction of Fatima coming from the farthest points of Portugal and some from Santiago.
Watch a little of that Mag and Elly lost in Tomar.
My friend and I are planning to do this route in July. Just curious as you don’t mention about washroom facilities along the route while you are walking. We do a lot of backpacking in the moutains of British Columbia where “facilities” are where ever you find yourself, however this is a bit different! Wondering what to expect.
Love reading your blog! Looking forward to following in your footprints soon!
Hi christine, have responded in my post day 10 extra. Thanks for your support. Buen camino. Any questions you have – fire away.
Hello, hello Maggie
Thank you for another wonderful post. I love your yellow arrow analogy.
Last year on the CdN in Guemes, Ernesto Bustio, a priest whom some consider a godfather of the Northern route, told us a story which overlaps with yours, including the eucalyptus …
Each evening Ernesto makes a presentation about the Camino and his Albergue to “increase knowledge and understanding of the experience.” He considers the Camino, or The Way, to be a “Master Class in Life.” He told us about recent urban sprawl (Nojo and Castro-Urdiales), about the environment and ecology, about recent deforestation and its impact, and about the building of the Camino. Northern Spain is a very important area for bird migration from Africa. But, the area used to have vast old growth forests that are now gone, replaced mostly by eucalyptus trees. He described the CdN as “a little difficult and hard at times with mountains, asphalt, rain, intersection with busy highways, hard to follow routes, few albergues, and real problems.” But he thinks the biggest problem may be in pilgrims’ heads because they are too dependent on modern technology and often walk without thinking, just following arrows. This stifles our creative ability to find our way. No doubt he was describing the Camino as a metaphor for modern life.
Thanks for taking the time to share that story, Jim. The camino throws up so many emotions and challenges us in ways that we don’t normally encounter in every day life.
I enjoy my technology but it doesn’t stop me enjoying nature and the very simple pleasures in life. I vowed that I would be totally non judgemental on this camino, but I continue to be challenged in this area, and to be honest, I quite enjoy being me.
We all have a lot to learn and a lot to give.
I’m glad you decided on the riverside track. Much prettier and more interesting, I would imagine.
Progressing well. Gorgeous flower photos, Petal 😉
Hi Maggie! Your stamina, photographs and blogs are all amazing! I can almost feel the hot spots on my own feet…I walked the Camino Francis last year and had many blisters for the first three weeks. Just wondering what type of shoe you’re wearing. Also, do either of you speak any Portuguese and is it possible to use English or French to be understood? Buen Camino!
I have Merrell Moab ventilators this year. No blisters from the shoes. I think the blister I did get was from the insole that I put in.
I speak some spanish and I think most Portuguese understand but won’t speak spanish. Many Portuguese speak English or French. But in most cases a willingness to communicate works wonders.
You write like a creative journalist and the pictures are great, where do you find the time?
I don’t sleep much Gerard. One of the benefits of maturity!
Am so enjoying reading about your journey, have already read your Camino Frances. I only learned about the Camino de Santiago a few weeks ago when an acquaintance in Luxembourg announced that she will be doing the Camino Frances, leaving early October. Since then, I have done nothing but read all I can and day dream about making the journey myself. You are a wonderful writer and your photos are fabulous!
Kerrie in Sydney, Australia
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Thanks so much for your kind words Kerrie. You seem to be a camino addict already! It is a very hard had habit to kick once it has a grip in you. You will find yourself planning your second camino before you have even finished your first. Have you looked at my ‘resource’ page to find links to more info?
Buen camino for when the day comes …………. it will!
Thanks Maggie, yes….still reading and dreaming. 🙂 I believe the day will come!
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