Rain was forecast for the whole of this week excepting Monday, and the prophesy was not wrong. We have had days and days of downpours. Not the odd spot here and there, but determined great dollops of the wet stuff pounding down and coursing like mini rivers all around us. The good thing about living on a mountain is that we are unlikely to get flooded.
Why the powers that be cannot organise the rain to fall evenly throughout the year is most frustrating, for nothing is surer than we will have nary a drop for several months over the summer when it is most needed.
So, as a consequence of the weather forecast we chose Monday to walk the final leg of my Camino Mozárabe ‘prequel’ into Málaga.
The timetable for the three daily buses from the village into Málaga did not enable us to take this form of transport in both directions so we once again called upon the good nature of David to drive us to our previous stopping off point at Rincon de la Victoria, where he dropped us at around 13:15.
I don’t really know this area, and the town of Rincon does not look particularly appealing when driving through, but the beaches are magnificent, long deep swathes of beautiful soft, flat sand, combed to perfection by an early morning tractor. It seemed a crime to spoil the patterns in the sand (like being the first person to put a footprint in the snow), but someone had to do it, and on this occasion it was my job.
Leaving Rincon, there is a lovely coastal path that alternates between a paved foot/cycle track with tunnels that cut through the cliffs, and a fenced path along the very edge of the cliffs. We passed by the monstrous cement factory and onto another beach.
And then we were in the outskirts of Málaga, with probably five or six more km’s to walk but in a very vibrant area with a lovely promenade alongside the beach with dozens of seafood restaurants lining the way, some bursting at the seams with diners – not bad business for an out of season Monday afternoon.
And soon we reached an area I was more familiar with, although I haven’t walked it before. We varied our path between the beach and the promenade, and it was quite delightful. We reached the city, passed the new marina area (which I have yet to explore) and made our way past the beautifully planted park, towards the cathedral and on to the church of Santiago, which is the starting point for the Camino Mozárabe from Málaga.
After a chat with a church warden about opening times for the first stamp in my credencial (pilgrim’s passport), we found a nice bar in the old town and shared a selection of tapas before catching the 18:30 bus back to Cómpeta.
The walk from Rincon de la Victoria to Málaga was, according to wikiloc 15.9 km and according to mapmywalk 16.75, so probably somewhere inbetween.
It was a delightful walk and I would definitely like to go back and sample the wares of some of those seafood restaurants some time. Maybe we might stop off next Tuesday when we will drive to Málaga to pick up my credencial from the Asociación Jacobea (the pilgrims’ office) which is open only on Tuesday evenings from 19:00 for a couple of hours. This is very easy for me to organise but rather more difficult for the majority of pilgrims who will be travelling from far away.
I would like to thank my great friend Renate who has accompanied me on all stages of this pre-camino. We were hoping that she would accompany me From Málaga to Córdoba, but alas her busy life no longer allows her to do this. But who knows, maybe she can join me for a while further along the route – I hope so!