Camino Mozárabe – day 7 – Doña Mencía to Castro del Rio 31 km

The phrase ‘be careful what you wish for’ came to mind this morning as we tackled the ridiculously steep climb out of Doña Mencía. All my moaning about flat tracks came back to haunt me! The first section of today’s trek was up and down through yet more olive groves and we were off road until we reached Baena at around 9 km, where we stopped for a coffee.


Baena is a fair sized town/city and is the place where all the Mozárabe routes converge and continue as one. We haven’t seen any other pilgrims yet, but maybe over the next few days we will bump into one or two.


The Mozárabe amigos seem to have regained their mojo (or replenished the yellow paint supplies) because signage was plentiful today.



After leaving Baena we were mostly walking on roads, albeit very quiet agricultural service roads. Once again I found it quite a slog walking on Tarmac for about 15 km and we were very glad to see the first cafe in our destination town of Castro del Río. We were presented with tasty looking tapas of fried belly pork on bread and a huge bowl of olives. And as luck should have it, George was not tempted by either, so in true Maggie tradition I scoffed the lot.



The arrows in the town were not very helpful and it took us a while to find the Ayuntamiento and office of the Policia Local who held the keys. Of course both were locked up for siesta. But I phoned the number for the police and was told they would arrive within fifteen minutes. So I settled down for an hour’s wait – and low and behold,they did actually turn up within the allotted time. Amazing! The key was handed over, directions given and albergue accommodation found. It is a lovely large house in a quiet square, with two rooms of bunks – 12 beds in all – a large meeting type room and a courtyard to hang washing. Really nice.



Castro del Rio is a very pretty and well maintained town with lots of historic buildings.

A shortish post today as I have already written an article for my local magazine ‘Grapevine’ to appear in the May edition.


Distance according to wikiloc (my own recording) 31.2 km, mapmywalk 32.3 km. Fitbit recorded steps 15,478 before battery ran out, say it should have been 30,000
Accumulated elevation uphill 297 metres
Accumulated elevation downhill 656 metres
Total distance walked 189.2 km, average 27 km per day

Today’s spend –coffee 1.2€,  fanta 3€, winex2 and dinner 10€, albergue – asked about donation and was told it was free = 14.2€
Seven days total spend 149.6€

About magwood

Trepidatious Traveller - camino blog is about preparing for and walking the Camino de Santiago. Many future pilgrims have found the blog useful and inspiring, and many who have no plans to walk the camino have simply enjoyed the dialogue
This entry was posted in Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Camino Mozarabe and tagged , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

15 Responses to Camino Mozárabe – day 7 – Doña Mencía to Castro del Rio 31 km

  1. Janice Tyler says:

    Lovely photo of you Maggie look every inch the professional walker! Nice accommodation too. x

    Liked by 1 person

  2. mary lynch says:

    I hope George is eating something!!! you look fabulous.

    Liked by 1 person

  3. heather coffin says:

    Hi Maggie – sounds like its been hard work so far, but you take it in your stride (nice pun). You make me laugh eating George’s food. Is he starving? Once again enjoying your descriptions of your days walking- you are an inspiration.
    Love Heather xxx


  4. Katherine Paterson says:

    Yes, I was getting a bit worried about George too! You´re making fantastic progress Maggie, hope your feet are ok?

    Liked by 1 person

    • magwood says:

      I picked up a tiny blister today, but shouldn’t be a problem. My own fault for walking too fast! I’ll blame Shania and Queen (Don’t stop me now – my absolute favourite striding song)


  5. kim says:

    Going well maggie…hope you are ok and trying to enjoy it xxx

    Liked by 1 person

  6. Carel says:

    From now on I will read you with extra interest, as I am dreaming (only dreaming yet) about walking one day from Almeria to Merida.

    Maybe this pdf is helpful, but I bet you have this info already.

    Click to access baena-merida-RELACI%C3%93N-DE-ALOJAMIENTOS-A-30-ENERO-2015.pdf

    Liked by 1 person

  7. You l.o.o.k. Fabulous! Stunning pictures of flowers and my all those agricultural fields. If it’s not one thing, it’s another. Sigh. {{ ❤ }}

    Liked by 1 person

  8. Keith Rocks says:

    Good one. Nice pics

    Liked by 1 person

  9. OzAnnie says:

    I’ve got the same comment as Mary Lynch about George eating. What is he living on?
    About your blog, I can’t get over the presentation/layout and balance in every days post.
    Does it ‘just flow’ easily for you?


  10. Poor George says:

    Poor george is surviving, just! I find that the amount of liquid I’m taking on is dulling my appite. Did manage a glass of snails last night!
    Maggie sure can walk!


  11. Poor George says:

    The appite has landed. Thanks for all the concern.


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