Camino Mozárabe (Via de la Plata) – day 23 – Casar de Cáceres to Cañaveral 38.5 km

There were ultimately no disasters relating to the top bunk – I took a chair from the dining room and once standing on this was able perch my bum on the bed and swing my legs up. Most ladylike! However this morning was a different matter. I was ready and out the door well before 07:30 and was merrily striding out when I realised I was not wearing my visor. This home made head-gear has been worn every step of the way on two and a half caminos, but I thought twice about turning around and going back to fetch it. In the end common sense prevailed and I turned tail after virtually one km and headed back into town. I first came across the slow-coaches who I shared my room with last night and they said that lovely Hungarian Andrea had found it and passed it to lovely single French guy (not single as in eligible, but single as in walking alone – not one of the four French guys walking together). As I was approaching the Albergue I spied LSFG, aka Olivier, with said visor attached to his pack strap – what a star. We walk at a similar pace and have spent some time chatting in spanish, which I have enjoyed as his level is about the same as mine and it is easy to understand him because he has to think about what he is saying, which slows him down to my pace. image image We walked together for quite a while today, on and off, along rather prettier flat sandy tracks with lots of cows who patiently posed for me. I stopped for a boots-off break after around 12 km and Olivier walked on. A huge reservoir came into sight – beautiful blue water. But a bridge is in the process of being constructed across the water (two in fact) and I had to endure a long diversion to by-pass the construction site. It is part of a new fast rail line ( although it looked more like a road to me)being built to connect Madrid with Extremadura and continue to the Portuguese border. Eventually I was led onto the shoulder of a road, not much traffic, but very fast moving. The first thing to pass me was a big lorry and I lost my hat for the second time today when the back-draught whipped it from my head. I quickly grabbed it before it disappeared out of reach. The vehicles on this road seemed to be mostly construction lorries and big shiny motorbikes a few at a time, which seemed to be using the road as a racing track, whizzing past at enormous speed and huge noise. I caught back up with Olivier just here and admired the new bridge works from the road bridge that we were travelling on. Apparently there is a town below the reservoir but all I could see were shoals of massive fish. image We eventually reached the Albergue where Olivier is stopping, along with all the rest of the pilgrims I have been seeing for the last few days. I called in for a top up of my water supplies and as the day was getting very hot, I soaked my long scarf in water and wrapped it around my neck. This is such s treat – it’s a wonderful way to keep the sun at bay and when It got even hotter, I put it over my head. image So I bade farewell to Olivier and Javier and continued on my way, as were a couple of German pilgrims who had been in my room last night. The track climbed high above the water and I got a different view of the new bridge in construction. The track was now very stoney and rocky and hard work to walk on. I slowed my pace right down. It is really hard walking on this type of track and it is necessary to watch almost every step – it would be so easy to turn my foot or trip – especially as the day wears on and I become tired. But luckily there were no mishaps and I trundled on taking my time on the uneven track, And now and then refreshing my scarf with more water. image The town of Cañaveral comes into sight from quite a distance but never seems to get any closer. I followed instructions on my app guide to ignore certain signs and carry straight on, but looking at my GPS route, I can see that I should have followed said signs to the town and saved myself quite a few km’s wandering about on the hillside. After following those app instructions I eventually came to a site where there is a big wooden notice board erected by the Ayuntamiento with a wooden arrow marker pointing to the left along a very narrow track. I followed this for a while but it didn’t feel right, so before I got too far, I returned to the notice board and this time noticed a very faded yellow arrow pointing to the right, which my instinct told me was correct. So I in turn followed this path for at least 500 metres, but it seemed to be taking me further away from the village. I decided to return to the board yet again, and this time I phoned the Albergue where I was due to stay and was told to take the direction I originally went to the left, and eventually there were some arrows. I finally reached the Albergue at around 5 pm. I had consumed more than three litres of water today and could easily have drunk more. image But the prize at the end of this hard slog was worth the effort. Quite the nicest (private) Albergue, charging 15€ and providing crisp sheets and duvet in spacious rooms of four beds – Of which two are occupied in my room. And the lovely hospitalera machine washed almost every item of my clothing and hung it out to dry for me. They also serve a three course menu with wine for 7€ – about time I had a decent meal. image Although my distance walked is 38.5, about 1.5 of that involved returning for my hat and probably the same or more wandering about in the wilderness. The various guides state anything between 32 and 36, so I would take a guess at somewhere between 34-35 being correct. image Distance according to wikiloc (my own recording) 38.6 km Accumulated elevation uphill 313 metres Accumulated elevation downhill 311 metres Total distance walked 629.4 km, average 27.4 km per day Today’s spend – drinks 2€, supplies 4.31€, albergue 15€, washing 3€ dinner 7€. Spend for the day 31.31€ Twenty-three days total spend 553.94€

About magwood

Trepidatious Traveller - camino blog is about preparing for and walking the Camino de Santiago. Many future pilgrims have found the blog useful and inspiring, and many who have no plans to walk the camino have simply enjoyed the dialogue http://www.magwood.me
This entry was posted in Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Camino Mozarabe, Via de la Plata and tagged , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

21 Responses to Camino Mozárabe (Via de la Plata) – day 23 – Casar de Cáceres to Cañaveral 38.5 km

  1. janpow123 says:

    You make it sound so easy, like a stroll in the park! Lovely photos of you and you look so happy! Respect!

    Liked by 1 person

  2. mosaikmum says:

    Loving your posts as always! I really do enjoy your beautiful photos and look forward to the change of header photo at the top of the page each day. (Seems to be most days anyway) I am yet to walk the Camino, planning for September next year, so am taking it all in!

    Liked by 1 person

  3. Katherine Paterson says:

    Yes, I´m the first today! Well done again Maggie and tonight´s lodgings look lovely. Just been up at the Alberdini and chatted with David, it was a fairly quiet music night but with lovely singing. Do you meet many singing pilgrims?

    Liked by 1 person

  4. Katherine Paterson says:

    OK the second then!!

    Liked by 1 person

  5. David Wolfe says:

    That has been another very long trek you make it sound so easy like a walk in the park but the reality must be very different fantastic pictures especially of you, with your lovely smile. A great place to stay, you deserve it hope that you enjoyed your supper. Sleep well luxx

    Liked by 1 person

  6. Leona says:

    Continuing to love your commentary and beautiful pictures, Maggie. My spirit is with you every step. Rest and eat well!

    Liked by 1 person

  7. I marvel and cannot imagine walking as far as you have, not only in a day but to date. Wishing you well. Thanks so much for sharing pictures and notes. I a so enjoying your pilgrimage. ❤

    Liked by 1 person

  8. My oh my, the variation in landscapes you’ve been thru is amazing. Maggie, your attention to detail in writing is phenomenal, I hope to be half as descriptive when I write about my own Camino experiences. That being said, it has been very helpful to see how you handle each of the daily challenges as they come your way. You have indeed become one tough pilgrim, and good on you! I admire your strength, stamina and determination as you begin each new day. Thank you for sharing like you do. May good luck and health follow you thru to the end ❤

    Liked by 1 person

    • magwood says:

      Thank you Sandy. I look forward to following your camino. I don’t always feel very strong but there is always a bit of stamina left to finish the day?

      Like

  9. kristina wilkening says:

    What a beautiful looking Alburgue! Getting lost alone doesn’t sound like fun. But you handled it like a champ! Intuition…is a good thing…but then, again…sometimes your doubting monster comes to hound your decision….oye….then…it is you and you alone…..

    Liked by 1 person

  10. I couldn’t possible walk without my visor either – in rain or shine. That’s always a pleasure when one pilgrim picks up and carries an item another one has left. I dropped my precious merino buff once and was about 6 km down the road when I realized. So disappointed. But awhile later, along came someone I asked “Did you by any chance see….?” The person smiled and turned around – there it was attached to her pack.

    Liked by 1 person

  11. mary lynch says:

    Another brilliant blog Maggie. Glad you made it to such a comfortable albergue. You look very relaxed and happy in your photos. That was a long walk at this stage, well done. Buen camino

    Liked by 1 person

  12. Janice Tyler says:

    Great blog Maggie – how fascinating about the new bridge and I am curious as to what the fish were. The albergue looked really good – do tell us what the meal consisted of. Great long walk today, well done!

    Liked by 1 person

    • magwood says:

      George tells me the fish were carp Janice – all I know is that they were huge. The meal was ok, great mixed salad, pork and chips (pork tasted a bit processed) and delicious homemade lemon cream pud. Yum!

      Like

  13. Keith Rocks says:

    Love this blog. Keep it up Maggie

    Like

  14. Poor George says:

    Hi Maggie. I stayed in the same albergue great isn’t it and like you I had the meal, and breakfast was just as good.
    Currently at Aldernueva del Camino, walked from Carcaboso today some of my fellow perigrinos took the bus!!! And some of these people are fit young men!!
    Hope your toe issue isn’t giving you any problems
    The fish were Carp and big as well!
    Keep going maggie

    Liked by 1 person

    • magwood says:

      Hi George. Feet are fine at the moment, just very achey at the end of the day. I will be doing Carcaboso to Aldeanueva tomorrow – a bit of a long haul again. Where did you stay? Those young ones just don’t have the stamina like us old pros!
      Hope all is well with you

      Like

  15. Heather says:

    Enjoy the lovely clean sheets and rest well. Think I might start calling you “Forrest Gump” because of your determination. Great admiration for you Maggie . Lots of love, Heather xxx

    Liked by 1 person

  16. lynharrison4wind says:

    Very relieved to hear that the ascent into your top bunk was done with such a ladylike manoeuvre. Standards of elegance clearly maintained. Loved to seeing the photos of you looking so fit, relaxed and happy. Good job the quality of the Albergue made up for the confusing signage!

    Liked by 1 person

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