I’m not sure if I mentioned yesterday our farewell dinner with Alke and Patrick. It was decided that Paul would make a lentil dish, Patrick would cook pasta with vegetables and Alke would make a salad. So I went off and found a bar by the river – well, I didn’t want to get in anyone’s way! I returned just as it was ready to be served and it looked, and tasted delicious. And for penance I did the washing up. P and A have a flight booked home on 6 June so have loads of time to take a steady stroll into Santiago so we probably won’t see them again, unless I get to meet up with them after I have returned from Finisterre. We have exchanged contact details, so hopefully something can be arranged.
Today took us over the highest point on this camino at 1,364 metres.
The day started very fresh, and misty alongside the river. I stashed my walking poles for the first hour and kept my hands from freezing with my sock gloves. It was a pleasant walk alongside the water but walking through the dewy grass absolutely soaked my boots and I just knew that my feet were turning wrinkly inside my wet socks.
I hoped to find a hot drink at the first village of Terroso but alas no bar, but there was a very kind gentleman who was very keen to put a stamp in my credencial. A few km’s further on found a bar in Requejo de Sanabria where I took the opportunity to change into dry socks and change my insoles. I pinned the wet socks to the back of my pack to dry out and went on my way, heeding local knowledge to keep to the road rather than the actual camino, which was impassable in places due to the works for the new AVE train line.
There were quite a few km’s on a wide road, but with virtually no traffic, it being Sunday and there being a motorway nearby. I took the opportunity to divert back onto the original ‘way’ for a lovely walk through beautiful flowers and past raging waterfalls before reaching the village of Padornelo where I refreshed with a cold fizzy drink.
Then it was another stretch on the road before diverting onto a lovely path, albeit with difficult footing, through woodland and meadows until I reached my destination at Lubián.
The albergue here is very basic, with sixteen places in bunks, with only one bathroom, but good sized sitting area and kitchen. Luckily I was one of the early arrivals, preceded by the Korean/Spanish couple (still don’t know their names) who took a taxi part way, and a cyclist. So I got my shower in quickly before anyone else arrived. There are no pillows or blankets at this albergue and the mattresses have awful rubber covers. Arrivals before I wrote the above were two Germans guys, two Spanish guys (including the fab José Antonio) Paul, Dutch woman and K/S couple. Who knows who will be there when I get back.
It’s quite a sizeable village with granite and stone buildings with slate roofs.
I enjoyed the walk today despite the elevation, but the last couple of km’s, which I found difficult underfoot, left me feeling a bit tired.
Distance according to Wikiloc – 29.6 km
Accumulated elevation uphill 547 metres
Accumulated elevation downhill 415 metres
Total distance walked 1,084.8 km, average 27.1 km per day