Total distance 52.9
Today’s accumulated uphill elevation 495m
Today’s accumulated downhill elevation 418m
Yesterday evening the other woman turned up at the hostal, Connie from Denmark who is also walking the Camino. A similar age to me and very easy company. We didn’t set off together today because she needed to wait for the shops to open so that she could buy a SIM card. After posting my blog, I wandered out to find some supper. I would have bought something in a shop, but it seems so expensive here that I can’t bring myself to do it. Six euros for a kilo of nectarines! I think lots of items are expensive down south, but they’re twice as much here. Maybe the small villages will be more reasonable. And of course it was Friday night, so everyone was out “to see and be seen”. I suppose I do find big cities a little intimidating when I am alone, I much prefer small villages. My daughter Ella, who is something of a foodie, will be aghast to know that I ate a beef burger in San Sebastián – what a pleb! But it was cheap and tasty and was accompanied by two glasses of wine.
I have altered yesterday’s distance downward by one kilometre. Because I hadn't started my GPS at the beginning of the walk, I used the stage distance given in my guide book, but I presume it was measured from albergue to albergue, and I stayed in the city centre and the albergue was a good distance further on.
After setting off from San Sebastián at a leisurely 08:10, my first stop was at 21 km at 2pm in Zarautz for beer and pintxo of calamares – two euros each – the beer was quite big, as was the one I had yesterday, so perhaps not such a bad price. I shall have to remember to order a small one next time. I’m not generally a beer drinker, but I need something to quench the thirst and wine would be gone way too soon.
I would have stopped sooner at Orio, a coastal town, but both bars I passed were extremely busy, absolutely buzzing and I find it very difficult to adjust from a solitary walk to being surrounded by very noisy people – so on I walked.
Today I have been very tired and extremely slow, I guess as a result of my exertions yesterday. But I am not in a hurry. The way has been either uncomfortable rocky dirt track or on the road – a lot of road, but almost entirely very quiet with very few cars passing and those that did were driven by courteous drivers who slowed down and allowed plenty of room. The scenery has been very pleasant, but on the whole not as stunning as yesterday.
I didn’t mention the signage yesterday. It was excellent and has been again today – can’t fault it.
My GPS told me I had walked 21 kms from the centre of San Sebastián to Zarautz, where I could have stopped for the night, but even though I was rather weary (huge understatement) I decided to walk on to Getaria.
Zarautz seems at a glance to be a town of many apartment blocks and a fabulous beach. The arrows direct you through the central streets, which may be to get you to the albergue (which is only open for a couple of months in the summer), although there is an inexpensive alternative at the camping ground. But I discovered that if you are walking through and not staying, you could walk along the promenade which would have been preferable.
The distance between Zarautz and Getaria is approximately 5 km and there is a wonderful promenade all the way. For the whole distance the prom was bordered with a beautiful stainless steel barrier – I can’t begin to imagine what that must have cost.
Getaria is a most beautiful town with a fabulous sandy beach and a marina and some pretty architecture. I am staying in the private albergue Kanpaia, 12 euros, plenty of wc and shower facilities, washing machine, and nice garden to dry your washing. The only negative as far as I am concerned would be the rubber covered mattresses, but there again, it may be that there is less chance of bed bugs, so perhaps I shouldn’t moan about that.
The albergue is directly on the Camino, but quite a climb out of town, so I may well not go back down the hill for some supper. They offer a limited choice of meals here (and wine), so I might well just stay put. Vamos a ver!
The weather has once again been very kind to me. Completely dry all day with even a glimpse of the sun this afternoon. Those camino angels are certainly looking out for me. Light showers forecast for the morning and cloudy sun for the afternoon – let’s hope they can keep it up for another day.