Total distance 247.6km
Daily average 27.5
Today’s accumulated uphill elevation 399m
Today’s accumulated downhill elevation 407m
I have now added photos to yesterday’s post. The wifi at the campsite was not strong enough to handle uploading these files. You can follow this link if you want to take a look.
It was quite stormy during the night – lots of rain and very strong winds. It was still very blustery when I set off at around 08:15, but wasn’t raining and the sky was quite blue.
Today’s trail started on the major road N-634, but there was a wide shoulder and not too much traffic. After 2.5 kms I peeled off onto a minor road, passing through several villages and through lovely countryside. After a total of 8 km on paved surface the track diverted through a wooded area – oh heaven! No complaints from me about the mud. The more squelchy it was the softer it was underfoot – absolute bliss. I took my time walking through, enjoying very minute.
This was a eucalyptus forest and the tall thin trees were swaying and creaking in the wind – like the sound of a dozen doors being slowly opened in a horror movie.
After three kms of dawdling in the mud it was back onto gravel and paved roads for the rest of the stage, but in stunningly beautiful countryside, with craggy cliffs soaring above the green fields. Lots of livestock again, full size horses, cattle and sheep.
The weather kept changing from lovely warm sunshine to cold wind and my arm warmers were pushed up and down with great regularity. It did rain once, but not hard and not for long, and I had prepared for the possibility before setting off.
I reached the town of Laredo where I could have stopped for the night, but decided to take the ferry across to Santoña (2 euros), a smaller town where I discovered there is a festival this weekend celebrating the anchovy. And the private albergue I am staying in is situated on the main square with the feria going on outside my window. It will be a noisy night probably into the not so early hours. But I am well practised at sleeping through the sound from a spanish party, so hopefully I will get at least some sleep.
The albergue Bilbaina is excellent with 24 sturdy wooden framed beds and two full bathrooms, rather old fashioned with showers over the baths, but it was one of the best showers I have had on this Camino. Washing and drying facilities, and breakfast goods included in the 10 euro price. Highly recommended.
And after three days of solitude a whole crowd has just arrived, including the friends I haven’t seen since Bilbao. It is delightful to see them again. I do like my own company during the day, but it is nice to communicate with friendly pilgrims in the evenings.