Stage 9 – Alcazarén to Puente Duero, 25 km

I pulled myself out of my slump last evening and did indeed find a couple of gems in Alcazarén. There is a huge brick built church that is quite beautiful inside. We returned to El Bar Real for some supper which was good enough.

The church at Alcazarén

This morning dawned bright, if rather chilly. I pulled on my gloves only to discover that I had put them in my waist pack still wet from yesterday’s rain, so they didn’t keep my hands very warm. But at least there was no miserable grey cloud to hide the sun and better still, no icy wind to push us around.

We started out walking on more sand tracks through pine forest – once again quite lovely. The sun rose from behind the trees throwing lovely shafts of light through the shadows.

After around 6 km I found myself a mojon to sit on and enjoyed some breakfast (including the last of the boiled eggs) and then wandered on through the slowly warming morning, well behind the others.

We were welcomed to the first village on this route at around 16 km, by which time our group had reformed and we enjoyed a hot drink before setting off for the final 9km, most of which was along, or alongside, a road. Being Mayday holiday there was not much traffic, but what there was sped by at great speed.

We arrived into Puente Duero at around 13:30 and were given a warm welcome by our charming host and hospitalero Arturo. This donativo albergue is situated in a spacious garden with small vegetable plot, lots of fruit trees and roses climbing up the fence. We cobbled together a decent lunch, and then Arturo presented us with a delicious freshly made tortilla español and a bottle of wine. What a star!

After showering and hand washing our clothes we all stretched out on the various benches dotted about the garden and there may well have been some snoozing going on. The albergue has beds for eight in two rooms and a decent bathroom. There is a BBQ if required. No wifi. Two more pilgrims arrived during the afternoon – two older guys, one Spanish, the other French.

We ate so well at lunchtime that none of us feels the need for supper. Nevertheless we made a trip out to look for a bar with wifi, but neither of the two we tried were able to oblige. Luckily I have a SIM card in my iPad so I will be able to post this later.

Today’s distance 25 km
Accumulated uphill elevation 20 m
Accumulated downhill elevation 72 m
Total distance 226.3 km
Average per day 25.1 km

About magwood

Trepidatious Traveller - camino blog is about preparing for and walking the Camino de Santiago. Many future pilgrims have found the blog useful and inspiring, and many who have no plans to walk the camino have simply enjoyed the dialogue
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12 Responses to Stage 9 – Alcazarén to Puente Duero, 25 km

  1. Amanda de klerk says:

    I love your postings Maggie! I am preparing for the Portuguese Camino in Sept and reading your blog keep me inspired, reminding me of that “leave and arrive” feeling everyday. Also, you traveling skirt looks sooooo funky! Really cool colours for a cool lady! Cant wait for the next episode of ”Trepidatious traveller”! All the best for the journey ahead. Buen Camino!

    Liked by 1 person

  2. Janice Tyler says:

    Loved the pix today, warm sun, washing drying and pilgrims stretched out..bliss! Glad the weather was kinder to you today xxx

    Liked by 1 person

  3. JoAl says:

    Hello Maggie,I’m so enjoying your blog. It mirrors ours just 5weeks ago but I do enjoy your opinion on things. I’m retreading our steps through yours. Stay well perrigrina.x

    Liked by 1 person

  4. Always nice to grab a little “me” time and somewhere decent to stay, chill out in the sun and catch up on the washing. You will feel like a new woman tomorrow!!

    Liked by 1 person

  5. Sally says:

    I almost feel as if I’m there! Church looks beautiful inside. Have a good day tomorrow. Hope the sun shines on you x

    Liked by 1 person

  6. Juliet says:

    Hi, I am juliet from toronto, loved reading your Camino blog, thank you. I am walking the french spanish estables route in sept. As I read your blog, now it is may, why are you cold all the time? And some of the photos you posted, people are in shorts? Can you help me understand? Thank you.

    Liked by 1 person

    • magwood says:

      Hi Juliet. We had some unseasonably cold weather a few days ago, plus we were at altitude and walking through clouds. Surprisingly, legs don’t get too cold. I am back in shorts now. But I still need gloves early in the morning, even though it gets quite hot during the day. I believe the bad weather was across most of Europe.


  7. OzAnnie says:

    Yay! I smiled to see Alcazarén did have hidden gems once you’d rested your weary body and mind.
    I meant to say that your travel garb yesterday was very ‘sheik’. You wear it well.
    Enjoying your blog ( I always do!). And this donation Albergue with no wifi but great sunny area and gardens looks like something the doctor ordered. You would have all recharged your batteries.!
    Buen camino.

    Liked by 1 person

  8. Mary Lynch says:

    The photo of all of you relaxing in the albuergue garden was gorgeous. The essence of what the Camino is about, in my mind. The fact that you have to put up with wind and cold and rain to get there is incidental to the prize. It’s amazing what a little solitude while walking can do to calm the mind. Loving your journey. Buen Camino and much love xx

    Liked by 1 person

  9. lynharrison4wind says:

    Love the descriptions of your stopover sights. More please! Looking at your elevation stats it seems to have been overwhelmingly downhill in recent days. I’m beginning to fear the “what goes down must come up (sic)” rule on your behalf. Hopefully it’s just my arithmetic at stray.

    Liked by 1 person

  10. Laurie says:

    Maggie, When you get to the big old abandoned building after walking along the canal leaving Medina de Rioseco, @undermanager on the forum just wrote that he went through Tamariz. (I remember that as a left turn that we didn’t take even though we saw an old faded sign) I am pretty sure that going that way is an on-road longer way than going straight on to Cuenca de Campos and from there to Villalon. Enoying all the pics so much! Buen camino, Laurie

    Liked by 1 person

    • magwood says:

      We also went through Tamariz. Made a conscious decision to walk on the road rather than stony track. So little road walking on this camino that it made an ok change.


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