Camino Mozárabe stage 1 – Almería to Santa Fe de Mondújar

I forgot to turn on my gps for a while so the distance walked was perhaps 1km longer than stated below

Today’s distance 24 km
Elevation gain 254 m
Elevation loss 81 m
Total distance from Almería 24

Nine Pilgrims met in Almeria last evening together with the lovely ladies from the Asociación Jacobea who arrived with credenciales for those who needed one and little papier-mâché yellow arrows for all. A couple of very pleasant hours were spent getting to know each other whilst downing a glass or two of wine. We were two Brits, a Chinese, two Canadians, an American, a Dane, a New Zealander and a South African and of course the three Spanish camino angels.

Marilyn (with whom I walked last year) and I retired to our upgraded room – from the Torreluz Centro Hostal to its posh big sister the Hotel Nuevo Torreluz where I slumped into my bed and instantly dozed off until 04:30, from which point I slept very little. I don’t think this had anything to do with the several glasses of wine I had consumed…more likely the anticipation of my coming adventure.

Four of the group had already walked the short stage to Rioja and returned to that point this morning by taxi and will walk on to the end of stage 2.

Meanwhile we five, from South Africa, New Zealand, Canada, Denmark and UK, set out from Almeria on what proved to be a bright and sunshiny day.

The walk out of the town is not unpleasant and not overlong. The signage was excellent and soon enough we had left the city behind us and were eventually directed onto a virtually dry river bed – a bit stinky in places and fairly rough under foot. We left the river bed for a visit to the pretty village of Pechina after 11km where we stopped for a drink.

Then back on the river bed until we reached the town of Rioja where we stop for a snack. I asked if there was anything they could provide for my vegan diet and after a quick consultation with the cook, I was offered a baked potato – result!

On the road again, literally, on asphalt all the way to our stage end of Santa Fe de Mondújar. The lovely Associacion ladies had reserved us a place at the municipal Casa rural. The cost is €15 per person or €40 for the apartment, so for five of us only €8 each. There is a twin room, a double room and a double sofa bed. Inginuity won the day when our Canadian contingent investigated and found that the sofa bed cushions could be unzipped to porvide a further two singles. And guess who was allocated the double? Well someone had to do it, and it would have been churlish to refuse.

We made use of the washing machine in the apartment and whilst our washing dried we adjourned to the bar to wait for the shop to open so we could buy some food for supper. When I checked at 18:30 it wasn’t open and I assumed it was shut for the day. But I just needed to be patient, it was actually open the next time I passed so after canvassing the others and establishing that they would be happy to eat with me, we bought supplies for a chickpea, spinach, tomato and red pepper casserole, to which they added some cheese and everyone seemed very happy – all for €8.

It was a comfortable, shortish, start to the camino and under blue skies and in fairly hot sunshine. Altogether very pleasant. We took an after-dark walk across the imposing road bridge that spans the valley and dominates the village. Alongside is a railway bridge. Such a pleasant way to end a really enjoyable day. I think this might be a very special camino.

The fabulous bridge photo isn’t mine – I found it on google.

Info for albergue…fabulous cooking facilities, at time of writing everything brand new and shiny. Microwave and ceramic hob, big fridge, washing machine, lovely shower. Ring in advance to reserve 678 288 143.


About magwood

Trepidatious Traveller - camino blog is about preparing for and walking the Camino de Santiago. Many future pilgrims have found the blog useful and inspiring, and many who have no plans to walk the camino have simply enjoyed the dialogue
This entry was posted in Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Camino Mozárabe from Almeria, Uncategorized and tagged , , , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

38 Responses to Camino Mozárabe stage 1 – Almería to Santa Fe de Mondújar

  1. Love your posts – they have me looking forward to my Camino Frances that I start May 31st! Its freezing rain here in Toronto Area Canada so glad also to hear the weather is great there! Buen Camino!!


  2. OzAnnie says:

    Looks like you lucked with weather and double bed
    Great start.


  3. Jeannette says:

    I would love go walk with you Maggi!

    I notice your two water botlles, are those pockets part of your back pack?
    Buen Camino for you and you fellow pilgrims!


  4. Maggie Gardner says:

    An auspicious start, this is going to be a good Camino! xx


  5. ingridfolkers says:

    Hi Maggie… sound like a great beginning. .. from where are/is the Canadian/s. .. ultreia


  6. Holly says:

    Buen Camino from Australia! Very excited to be joining you, albeit online, for this walk as have followed your blog religiously: it’s as if we are all walking with you, plus I love the DIY tips, and landscape photos. Don’t fret about the chickpeas – create quick salads with mixed veg, then there’s hummus, mash ’em roughly into a veg burger, fried zucchini/any greens & chickpea rice… 🙂


  7. 123rosapomar says:

    Hi Maggie, I am so excited for your new caminho! You look to be be in very fine company. Looking forward to your reports and pictures. Your rocking outfits and savvy know hows are so inspirational. Lots of heart from Portland, Oregon! I hope to follow in some of your foot steps sometime


  8. Annie Carvalho says:

    Looks like a wonderful start!


  9. wildscotland says:

    This looks amazing. When you have all done and this you can take on the challenge of the North Highland Way in Scotland. Come to our Festival in Durness in September.


  10. Janice Tyler says:

    Great photos as usual! Love the tomatoes, that’s how you know you are in Almeria. What an auspicious start. X


  11. Cathy Mahoney says:

    Maggie Will follow your journey and blog with interest

    How did you manage to know of 8 others walking at same time? Would love to know of the NZ connection

    I am currently thinking ahead to 2019 and think I would add the 3 week St Francis Way ( Florence to Rome) to a months trip to Norway with my husband

    Having to travel from NZ I am trying to cash in on just 1 return airfare.

    Good luck Cathy

    On Sun, 15 Apr 2018 at 10:05 AM, Trepidatious traveller – camino blog wrote:

    > magwood posted: ” Nine Pilgrims met in Almeria last evening together with > the lovely ladies from the Asociación Jacobea who arrived with credenciales > for those who needed one and little papier-mâché yellow arrows for all. A > couple of very pleasant hours were spent gett” >


  12. mary lynch says:

    Morning Maggie, I’m glad the sun shone for you. You all look like an interesting bunch of people and I’m looking forward to your wonderful photos as much as your brilliant words. Take care and buen camino xx


  13. How interesting to follow your adventures!


  14. Katherine Paterson says:

    Great start Maggie, we’ll done lucking out with the double bed! Lovely photos as ever, the perspective view of the two bridges was spectacular.
    Buen Camino.


  15. Mario says:

    Just seen your Facebook post, I take my hat off to you. Awesome as the Americans would say 😀👍 well done and thank for posting. REgards Mario


  16. sixwheeler says:

    Ah Maggie, it’s great to be on the road with you once more. Hope you have an excellent Camino.


  17. lynharrison4wind says:

    Turning everybody (almost) vegan on the first day and getting the sun to shine is showing good leadership qualities, but you’ve dashed my hopes of making a mint from selling your story of 1000 kms on a diet of “accidentally vegan” oreos to their manufacturer (your amusing aside in previous blog). That would have been quite something! Good luck my friend.


  18. David Cooper says:

    You are on your way! Nice photo of the bridges!


  19. Alan says:

    A good start Maggie. We hope it continues.


  20. Susan Harris says:

    Best wishes Maggie. Fell walking for me today xxxss


  21. Leona L Sutton says:

    Hi, Maggie, I hadn’t checked in with your blog since last year. So happy for you that you’re walking another Camino! May, 2016 I completed the Camino Frances, come September I embark on the Camino Portugese–old hat for you, but pretty anticipatory for me. From my heart, Buen Camino! Of course I’ll be following your posts.


  22. George says:

    Poor George says:
    Have a great time Maggie, looking forward to your posts,


  23. Jenny Heesh says:

    Buen Camino ladies! Take joy in every step and in each other’s company on this very special camino.
    Cheers from Oz –


  24. Vjr says:

    Is the albergue in Santa Fe de Mondújar still open? The Casa Rural sounds great.


  25. Carel says:

    Good to see that you at last undertook the Camino from Almeria. It will be a stunning walk.


  26. Carel says:

    The walk out of the centre Almeria indeed is a pleasant one, even through the build up area. It is not so bad as some people in the Camino Forum suggested.


  27. Alison says:

    Excellent write up, thank you. We begin Monday the 23rd, and your information will be a great reference.


  28. Ann says:

    Hi Val- lovely to see your photo with my 3 amigos from the Norte – Laurie (with short gray hair) next to Percy from China & Alun opposite – enjoying all the female company! Love your blogs


  29. Ann says:

    Hi Maggie- I meant to say I’m a friend of Val’s from Australia & I started reading your blog assuming it was hers! I wanted to tell her that your photo showed my friends from the Norte last year. Love your blog! Hope I can follow your journey
    Buen Camino!


  30. Me gusta la forma de explicar la etapa y todo lo relacionado con la etapa. Gracias


  31. Me gusta el método de explicar el recorrido de la etapa, yo hice desde Almería hasta Rioja, sin embargo, si vuelvo a hacer el Camino hasta Granada, haré esta distancia ya que la siguiente desde Rioja hasta Alboluduy es bastante dura.


  32. Pingback: Granada and the Camino Mozarabe | Visit to the Alhambra

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