Camino Mozárabe VdlP, stage 34 Pedrosillo de los Aires to Salamanca 31 km

Today’s distance 31 km
Elevation gain 260 m
Elevation loss 443m
Total distance from Almería 840 km

I didn’t make many notes today so this post will be a bit sketchy. But firstly, I’d like to say that I wouldn’t recommend taking the diversion through Pedrosillo de los Aires if you are walking the VdlP for the first time. The primary route through San Pedro de Rozados is a beautiful trail with a choice of albergues.

Today I was reminded of a lesson I should have learned well by now…just because there are bars in the various villages en route does not mean that they will be open – especially if you reach them early in the day.

We were hoping to take refreshment at Monterrubio de la Sierra (5 km) and Morille (11.5 km) but neither were open, so poor Marilyn went cafein-free for 22.5 km.

Our first 12 km were on very quiet road with only a dozen or so cars passing us in as many kms.

And then we were on a very pleasant wide track through vast pastureland again, the first half with lots of trees, and then into boundless crop fields stretching as far as the eye can see.

At the top of a rise on the track the city of Salamanca came into view but it is still about 15 km distant. It remains a tease on the horizon for hours to come.

At 22.5 km we reach the turning for the tiny hamlet of Miranda de Azán and arrive at the long awaited restaurant at the entrance to the village only to find our third opportunity for refreshment closed, but a quick consultation on my phone showed an alternative bar where we both quickly downed two fizzy drinks in quick succession.

We still had another 9 km before we reached historic centre of the city and the bridge over the Rio Tormes, at which point Wikiloc stopped recording distance at 31 km.

The albergue is close to this point, but in anticipation of the 16 bed facility being full by the time we arrived, we secured ourselves a twin room in a 4 star hotel for 45 euros. The Gran Hotel Corona Sol is about as far rmoved from last night’s accommodation as can be imagined. Shiny marble floors, ultra modern bathroom, comfortable beds with stylish linen and soft fluffy towels. But it took us no time at all to lower the tone with washing hanging from lines stretched across the bedroom and bathroom. You can take the pilgrims our of the albergue, but you can’t take the albergue out of the pilgrims!

There is a Mercadona supermarket next to the hotel and I made a bee-line for some healthy nourishing food – hummus, fruit, salad, bread, muesli and oat milk and proceeded to eat myself to a standstill.

Meanwhile Eli arrived in the city long haul from Australia and after she had taken a nap I wandered over to the Plaza Mayor to catch up on our news for the year since we had last parted in Finisterre. Now we are just waiting for Aurelio to arrive and we will be a full complement for the next stage of our camino.

Salamanca is an historic and beautiful city with magnificent stone buildings at very turn, down very street, with a massive Plaza Mayor and a very fancy cathedral.

About magwood

Trepidatious Traveller - camino blog is about preparing for and walking the Camino de Santiago. Many future pilgrims have found the blog useful and inspiring, and many who have no plans to walk the camino have simply enjoyed the dialogue
This entry was posted in Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Camino Mozarabe, Camino Mozárabe from Almeria, Camino Mozárabe variante Trujillo, Via de la Plata and tagged , , , , , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

8 Responses to Camino Mozárabe VdlP, stage 34 Pedrosillo de los Aires to Salamanca 31 km

  1. Ina Sinclair says:

    Seeing the problem of finding a bar open when you need one to start the day, how about a tiny immersion heater to heat water for a coffee or minute soup? Ever since I started walking caminos I have been carrying one by Lewis N. Clark which weighs just 90 gr.

    Now I am curious to see you with your friends on the Camino de Torres. When I walked it last year there was just one bed in the old school which serves as albergue in Robliza. And there is nothing in the line of hostels or even hotels.

    Thank you again for your detailed reports and lovely photos!


  2. Alan says:

    Enjoy Salamanca with its wonderful art gallery near the albergue. As always, l enjoy Your posts and pictures. Best wishes,stay healthy.x


  3. Poor George says:

    Hi Maggie,
    Looking forward to your excursion along the Torres, I so wish I was in Salamanca, getting ready for the next stage as well.
    Best wishes to all


  4. Ditto to the electric coil – I never travel without one,


    • Leona L Sutton says:

      My camino companion has the immersion coil, I carry several packets of instant coffee. Sometimes I’ll even make my coffee with hot tap water. Works until you can order some of that delicious Spanish cafe con leche. Please keep posting! Buen Camino!


  5. OzAnnie says:

    You two are well matched with stamina it seems.
    The hand washing and in particular ‘wringing’ gets to be the hardest part…..
    I hope your feet are doing well.
    Buen Camino


  6. gracethepilgrim says:

    Oh Maggie,
    I’m thrilled you are meeting with my lovely friend Aurelio. Please pass on a big hug from Grace. He kindly gave me the ‘locals tour of Lisbon’ prior to my CPI and was super helpful with preparation.
    Enjoy your wee rest in Salamanca. Cheers, Grace


  7. Susan Harris says:

    So glad your having a treat at last. Enjoy your beautiful bed and fancy sheets. I love Salamanca. Enjoy this next part of your adventure, lovely to meet up with friends. Stay safe soak those feet (that’s what bidets are for). Xxx


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