Today’s distance 31 km
Elevation gain 260 m
Elevation loss 443m
Total distance from Almería 840 km

I didn’t make many notes today so this post will be a bit sketchy. But firstly, I’d like to say that I wouldn’t recommend taking the diversion through Pedrosillo de los Aires if you are walking the VdlP for the first time. The primary route through San Pedro de Rozados is a beautiful trail with a choice of albergues.

Today I was reminded of a lesson I should have learned well by now…just because there are bars in the various villages en route does not mean that they will be open – especially if you reach them early in the day.

We were hoping to take refreshment at Monterrubio de la Sierra (5 km) and Morille (11.5 km) but neither were open, so poor Marilyn went cafein-free for 22.5 km.

Our first 12 km were on very quiet road with only a dozen or so cars passing us in as many kms.

And then we were on a very pleasant wide track through vast pastureland again, the first half with lots of trees, and then into boundless crop fields stretching as far as the eye can see.

At the top of a rise on the track the city of Salamanca came into view but it is still about 15 km distant. It remains a tease on the horizon for hours to come.

At 22.5 km we reach the turning for the tiny hamlet of Miranda de Azán and arrive at the long awaited restaurant at the entrance to the village only to find our third opportunity for refreshment closed, but a quick consultation on my phone showed an alternative bar where we both quickly downed two fizzy drinks in quick succession.

We still had another 9 km before we reached historic centre of the city and the bridge over the Rio Tormes, at which point Wikiloc stopped recording distance at 31 km.

The albergue is close to this point, but in anticipation of the 16 bed facility being full by the time we arrived, we secured ourselves a twin room in a 4 star hotel for 45 euros. The Gran Hotel Corona Sol is about as far rmoved from last night’s accommodation as can be imagined. Shiny marble floors, ultra modern bathroom, comfortable beds with stylish linen and soft fluffy towels. But it took us no time at all to lower the tone with washing hanging from lines stretched across the bedroom and bathroom. You can take the pilgrims our of the albergue, but you can’t take the albergue out of the pilgrims!

There is a Mercadona supermarket next to the hotel and I made a bee-line for some healthy nourishing food – hummus, fruit, salad, bread, muesli and oat milk and proceeded to eat myself to a standstill.

Meanwhile Eli arrived in the city long haul from Australia and after she had taken a nap I wandered over to the Plaza Mayor to catch up on our news for the year since we had last parted in Finisterre. Now we are just waiting for Aurelio to arrive and we will be a full complement for the next stage of our camino.

Salamanca is an historic and beautiful city with magnificent stone buildings at very turn, down very street, with a massive Plaza Mayor and a very fancy cathedral.