Camino Torres, stage 5, Ciudad Rodrigo to Aldea del Obispo 32 km

Today’s distance 32 km
Elevation gain 425 m
Elevation loss 385 m
Total distance from Almería 977 km

We leave this charming walled city via the Roman bridge, meeting up with Aurelio along the way. 2.5 km from the city centre we reach a quiet country lane and at 5 km it changes to a gravel track. We are walking between vast fields of cattle, black to one side of the track and tan and white on the other. We remain on this track until we reach the village of Gallegos de Argañan where we stop for a drink.

Unusually we pass a couple of trees that are full of stork nests. I guess there are no tall buildings in the vicinity so tall trees have to suffice!

There is significant cloud cover today, and the air feels humid. Although it isn’t sunny, it is quite warm.

On leaving Gallegos we are on asphalt until 23.5 km where we stop in the village of La Alameda de Gardón and we find a plaza with benches where we eat lunch from our supplies.

Up to this point this stage has been the least interesting and least beautiful of the Torres thus far, but during the last quarter of our walk both the track and scenery improve with narrow paths and heavily wooded hillsides.

We then passed over a cattle grid and as might be expected found ourselves in a field full of cattle, large ones, and baby ones and big daddy bull ones. Once again Aurelio and I positioned ourselves either side of Marilyn , and even with our protection she was very anxious. But soon enough we were exiting over another cattle grid. Personally I find the cattle grids more frightening than the cattle!

Finally we find ourselves walking alongside a river and have to cross a very long field of very long grass. This is quite slow-going as it is necessary to lift our feet quite high to make our way through the field, and it is also quite hard work! And it also fills our shoes and socks with grass seeds which are the devil to remove!

At 30 km we arrive at the village of Castillejo de Dos Casas and now have only a further 2 km to our destination. But this includes a rather tricky manoeuvre on some granite block stepping stones over a river. I do my usual trick of letting the others go first whilst I video their antics. Aurelio makes it across safely but not so Marilyn. She has relatively short legs and the stones are spaced far apart and as her foot rests on a smaller stone, it wobbles and throws her off balance (easily done when carrying a big pack) and she lands with both feet in the fairly shallow water. As her shoes are now soaked she takes the easier route through the water to the other side. Then it’s my turn to try my luck and it really isn’t that easy, but I manage to maintain my balance and make to the other side with dry feet.

The small town of Aldea del Obispo (translates as Bishop’s village – the second pueblo with this name we have stayed the night, the other being on the Variante por Trujillo) has a municipal albergue. We have been trying to contact them by phone for a couple of days as Aurelio had heard that the albergue had closed. We received no answer from a variety of numbers that we found, so held no great hope of being able to stay here tonight. But the helpful villagers directed us to the albergue building next to the church and a young man was sent to find the hospitalera who arrived quite quickly. There are three rooms, one with one bunk bed, and two with two bunks, plus a few extra mattresses. There are four showers, two loos and each dorm has a basin. Add to that a fully functioning kitchen and dining table, a rather scruffy back yard and a grassed area to the front and we are all very impressed with the well thought out facility. 15€ with towel but no bedding, 20€ if you need bedding. There is a good shop in the village so you can buy food to cook, and of course there is a bar where you can order a meal. Website and telephone number for the hospitalera Rosi 0034 628 549 912.

Marilyn took this pic of me waiting for Rosi to arrive. A typical expression after walking 32 km!

Aldea del Obispo is only a couple of km from the Portuguese border and we are all rather excited to be crossing to a different country tomorrow morning.

About magwood

Trepidatious Traveller - camino blog is about preparing for and walking the Camino de Santiago. Many future pilgrims have found the blog useful and inspiring, and many who have no plans to walk the camino have simply enjoyed the dialogue
This entry was posted in Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Camino Mozarabe, Camino Mozárabe from Almeria, Camino Mozárabe variante Trujillo, Camino Torres and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

6 Responses to Camino Torres, stage 5, Ciudad Rodrigo to Aldea del Obispo 32 km

  1. Alan says:

    A good post and pics as usual Maggie. Take care near the cattle.x


  2. Arlèna says:

    I am truly enjoying your journey, thank you for posting.


  3. Bridget Kirke says:

    Accommodation looks pretty good …. hope you sleep well. You look tired which isn’t surprising. Watch out for ticks in all that long grass etc!


  4. Paul says:

    Arriving on the 31st May . Will call you latter.


  5. Ina Sinclair says:

    Don’t arrive at the bar before lunchtime! I had stayed overnight at Gallegos and did not get my coffee in the bar. Somebody saw me waiting in front of the bar and offered me a coffee at her home…..


  6. Henk Slabbekoorn says:

    As usual I am very impressed with the pictures you make. One walks with ‘other’ eyes when looking for the beauty around us. The unusual trees with storks are indeed unusual, especially as the bird in the picture is not a stork but a (blue) heron. And those birds like to use trees for having nests, colony wise if possible.
    Wish you very nice walking days!


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