Ruta de la Lana, stage 3, Sax to Caudete , 32 km


Distance 33km (which included wandering about town)
Elevation gain, 169 m
Elevation loss, 45 m
Total distance, 89.1 km
Daily average 29.8 km

We wanted to leave this morning too early to partake of the breakfast included in the cost at el Fuente de Curo, but there is the opportunity to drink coffee or cold drinks, fruit, and dulces.  None of it much good for me, but I helped myself to a couple of biscuits and an apple.

When we walked out at around 07:00, the sun was yet to rise and there was a bitter breeze.  We walked almost immediately into the countryside on a narrow quiet road and continued for 5 km before encountering a track 

Once off-road we are walking through very scrubby land on a soft dirt track.  We look back at towards Sax and the outline of the castle is very dramatic, as is the red-tinged cloud rising above the mountain ranges.

It is lovely when the sun eventually rises and warms the back of my legs and creates the first opportunity on this camino for a shadow photo.

The track is very flat and very uninteresting. No wild flowers to distract me. No animals to commune with. And if it was hot – absolutely no shade. We slog on in a very beige landscape. But eventually the scrubland becomes ploughed, ready for planting and then I finally see a green field.   It’s funny how the simple things in life can cheer you up no end – the green fields of cereal crops in the lovely sunshine totally lift my spirits, especially as we are now walking between fields along a track lined with beautiful flowering trees.

At 10 km we are back on the road for the approach to the town of Villena. At 14 km we stop for hot drink and toast. There is a church of Santiago but it is closed at 10:00.  This is another sprawling town that runs for several kms. On exiting there is a major roundabout to be negotiated – a bit scary!  But we discover that if we had approached it from the left-hand side there are zebra crossings to ease the way. Also I could see from my map app that there is a diversion to the left that takes us on track, rather than immediately next to a busy main road.

It strikes me that thus far on this camino the only towns we have passed through have been sizeable. Sadly, no characterful villages.

The second half of the walk from Villena to our destination of Caudete is totally unremarkable. Long, straight tracks that pass by some agricultural land. I see strawberries planted under plastic, peas, onions, cabbage and some vineyards. But it is a long slog, battling against an ever-increasingly strong and bitterly cold wind. The sun pops out every now and then, but all too briefly.

At the entrance to Caudete we find the Santuario de Nuestra Señora de Gracía. The facade appears carved of stone, but on closer inspection we discover it is entirely flat, all a trick of the eye, a clever trompe l’oeil. 

I contact Javier who runs the albergue at Caudete mid morning to warn him of our arrival, and he requests that we ring again when we reach town. The albergue is situated at the very top of town, adjacent to Santa Ana church. Ring Javier, ideally the day before arrival, 634307571. It is a stone building and on this cold day, it is, unsurprisingly, cold. But there is plentiful hot water, cooking facilities, two bunks and an overspill of a triple bunk in an adjacent room. Sheet, pillowcase and blankets are available. 5 euros.

The two spanish pilgrims that we met yesterday have also arrived at the albergue.

About magwood

Trepidatious Traveller - camino blog is about preparing for and walking the Camino de Santiago. Many future pilgrims have found the blog useful and inspiring, and many who have no plans to walk the camino have simply enjoyed the dialogue http://www.magwood.me
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8 Responses to Ruta de la Lana, stage 3, Sax to Caudete , 32 km

  1. Tony Rice says:

    Love the 3D church front. Keep on walking. Buena Camino!

    Happy Trails. Tony

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  2. Dominic says:

    I thought it was 1150 from the start and now it’s 988km one of those must be wrong

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  3. M3 Mary says:

    A boring walk today Maggie. I’m glad you saw some green fields. Like Tony I love the 3D church front , very clever. At least you had a good albergue for the night. Bon Camino and much love xx

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  4. alan lampard says:

    A good review of the as always. Some nice pics,love a Camino shadow. Ultreia

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  5. Paul says:

    Hi Maggie, your realy clocking up the km, i’m not sure l could keep up. Like most countries the Spain we see in holyday magazens ,books and on tv dosn’t tell the whole story, but for sure the boaring bits will be long forgoten when mountain vistas and and historical centres enter the story.love to you both Paul.

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  6. Marilyn van Graan says:

    Well Mags when it gets monotonous just put on your funnies and laugh your way through it!!! Love that church is it not amazing – as usual your photos tell the complete story. Just saying it didn’t take two peregrinas long to trash a really nice room – hahaha – be safe and enjoy. PS did you check under the plastic for a snack!!XXXXX

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  7. fholmly says:

    Great posts Maggie! As usual, the photos and commentary tell a great camino story. It refreshes my memories of a month ago and it’s fun to see the changes in the scenery, subtle as they are. You have plenty of small villages ahead, enjoy! Buen Camino, federico.

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  8. gracethepilgrim says:

    Interesting day for you. Love the church – what a wonderful piece of craftsmanship. I wonder what the story is.
    The scenery reminds me of much of the Levante – well you are in the vicinity 😉
    Enjoy and let’s hope the rain stays away. Cheers, Grace

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