Ruta de la Lana, stage 16, Salmerón to Trillo, 31.5km

Distance, 31.5 km
Elevation gain, 603. m
Elevation loss, 709 m
Total distance, 466.5 km
Daily average, 29 km
We make an early departure this morning as rain is forecast for later in the day and we want to make a good start before it comes.  At 06:30 it is completely dark and we are immediately on tracks already muddy from earlier rainfall.  We take a wrong turn and it is quite a while before I check our progress on maps.me and discover our mistake.  Rather than retrace our steps we take a path through olive groves, some firm underfoot, others freshly ploughed to remove weeds.  We eventually regained the rightful track but probably added at least one km to our journey, and not an inconsiderable amount of mud to our boots!
Then there was a continuous climb – 300 m over 4 km, through petty natural woodland on narrow rocky track.  When we reached the summit there was a long stretch of flat track. Flat track in rainy weather = a lot of water hanging around. And there was A LOT of water, and boggy, sticky clay of the type that clings tight to your boots. And then the rain started – sometimes heavy and sometimes not so heavy and occasionally not at all.  The flat track made up around half of our distance today, perhaps 15 km of slippy, slidey, heavy booty slog.  But the scenery was very beautiful and on a fine day it would have been a heavenly walk.
The problem with these conditions is that it is not appropriate to stop for a break. There is nowhere dry to sit and if it’s chilly you need to keep moving. So we just kept going until we reached the village of Viana at 23.5 km when we had been walking non stop for six hours. Even then we only stopped for a few minutes as the bar does not open during the week – there are only five weekday inhabitants. I ate a bit of the bocadillo I had made for myself, which left a lot to be desired, and we were up and off again within 10-12 minutes.
Overlooking the village are twin mountains known as the Tetas de Viana (tetas/tits!). Today was definitely not a day for a side trip. Apparently after a steep climb on track, there is a chain to pull yourself up and finally a metal ladder to reach the top.
The track from Viana to Trillo was beautiful – narrow, steep, winding, woodland, far reaching views, rock formations, green forested valleys.  And rain, even hail for a few minutes. But luckily the soil was not the sticky type and for the most part the rain cleaned our boots.
It’s such a shame that we couldn’t make the most of this stage, taking our time and picnicking along the way.
Trillo is, I believe, a tourist town. There are a series of pristine tumbling waterfalls cascading through the town from the Rio Cifuentes. In contrast, the Rio Tajo also flows through the town from another direction and at the moment it is totally swollen with brown muddy water.
The tetas that overlook Trillo are of a different kind – a nuclear power station!
The albergue here is alongside the bullring. There is a room with four beds and two showers and loos. All very clean. But no blankets or pillows.  My sleeping bag is very lightweight, so it might be a long cold night!  And guess what tomorrow is due to bring?  Rain and temperatures that feel like 0 degrees.  Hey, ho!

About magwood

Trepidatious Traveller - camino blog is about preparing for and walking the Camino de Santiago. Many future pilgrims have found the blog useful and inspiring, and many who have no plans to walk the camino have simply enjoyed the dialogue http://www.magwood.me
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16 Responses to Ruta de la Lana, stage 16, Salmerón to Trillo, 31.5km

  1. Dave says:

    Fabulous fun! If it were easy, everyone would be doin’ it! With you in spirit (gin) …..

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  2. David says:

    You really are having some terrible weatherhope that it improves soon. You both deserve a medal for your persistance and being able to stay so posative in these conditions l hope that you are warm enough tonight. Sleep well david xx

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  3. alan lampard says:

    Oh dear, fingers crossed for a better day than the forecast predicts tomorrow.

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  4. Bill says:

    Most people by now would of quit, your such an inspiration. I’m praying for better weather for you and Nina.

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  5. Joss stewsrt says:

    You guys are really moving along having done Frances Portugues and del Norte I am ready for a 3rd so following with great interest
    Bravo doing so well
    King days and distances

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  6. Susan Harris says:

    Oh crikey Maggie what rubbish weather. Is it too soon to say it can only get better for both of you. Hope it dries up and warms up soon.
    Photos still look great. This is one of those days when you need 5 star accomodation. Take care xxxx

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  7. Ina Sinclair says:

    Oh, poor you! Here we are all commiserating(?) from the safety of our homes! Bon courage! as they say where I live!

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  8. Hang in there girls. Thinking of you and sending sunny, fine weather wishes. Melx

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  9. Cecilia K says:

    I’m so sorry to hear about the rain, courage mes Amis. Nothing lasts forever. I can sympathise with lack of blankets too, it’s horrid. X

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  10. Marilyn van Graan says:

    What a gorgeous day as you said if the weather was good – such lovely scenery and no time to sit around and enjoy it all!!!I cannot believe the weather is being so unkind to you and of course the other 4 – soon soon it must warm up !!! Warm hugs XXXX

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  11. M3 Mary says:

    So sorry for you both Maggie. What a hard slog yesterday must have been. No blankets on your beds sounds awful as well. I’m praying for better weather for you both also. Buen camino and much love xx

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  12. Anja Sundqvist says:

    Thank you for sharing your hiking experiences. Have followed all your caminos and walked many of them as well. Good luck and hope for better weather.

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  13. Colleen says:

    Sun is coming soon! I just caught up with you. Buen Camino pilgrim… thinking of you both! xx

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  14. John P says:

    LOVING reading your journey and adventure. My son and I leave from Cuenca May 6…. If you could use up the rain by then I would greatly appreciate it 😛 – thanks! – John P

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