I think there must be several options by which to leave Nueva that all come together sooner or later. After about 2 km we divert from the quiet road onto dirt track. I have downloaded two coastal options for the start of today’s walk. One goes immediately to the coast and the other joins it further down the official route.
Because it has rained quite heavily in the night and I guess that the wet grass will soon make a soggy mess of my shoes, we decide to take the second option – marked green on the map. I think if the weather were more agreeable the pink option would have been far preferable.
Although there is almost no rain by the time we set off, the air is very damp and the mist is really low. But when we reach the coast it is nevertheless even more rugged and more beautiful than any of the other headland tracks, although they’ve all been dazzling. But there are so many rock formations on this stretch, including countless natural arches (but none that I would dare to attempt to walk over) – it is just stunning.
We switch between the route I downloaded and a blue marked coastal path that has been signposted since Nueves and hugs the headland religiously. The track is a little overgrown in places and as the year progresses I guess the brambles and the gorse might well cause a few scratched legs
Of course there were constant ups and downs on the rocky track and eventually we gave in and worked our way back to the official route and arrived in the large town of Ribadesella at 16 km.
The rest of the walk was largely on quiet roads and we reached the village of Vega after 23.5 km. It felt like a lot more!
This is the second time I have visited the albergue ‘Tu Casa’ in Vega. And the third time I have met the owner Marina. The first was when she was a hospitalera at the albergue in Fuenterroble on the Via de la Plata in 2015. The second when I walked this route in 2016 and we stopped here for a drink before it had opened as an albergue. It is a small donativo, seven places. Over 60’s can reserve +34984100746. We are two danish women, an Italian guy, one Irish, one Dutch and we two Brits. A communal supper will be cooked and breakfast is provided. There is a lovely atmosphere.
The communal four course dinner was really good, and we all helped clear up afterwards. Well done Marina, it’s been a wonderful experience.
We got caught in a heavy downpour just about 1 km from our stage end. My new cover up was within easy reach and I managed to stay pretty dry. It’s the first time we have been rained upon in 11 days. Pretty good going for the north of Spain.
Well done Mags, you are doing great. I look forward every evening to reading you beautiful description of your daily walk. You haven’t mentioned your blisters so hoping they are on the mend and not causing you any discomfort. Wishing you continued good health, Buen Camino,
Really enjoying coming along with you. You really have got into your stride. Remarkable!. Your journey along this coastline especially the first phase has evoked so many long and distant memories of a young bloke in a little red Mini in 1965 who came this way.
I enjoy reading your down to earth blog. I’m planning to follow your steps in September.
We almost met once. You were meeting some pilgrims in the Cathedral in Lisbon and invited me to join in ( maybe 4 or 5 years ago). I was too anxious to get walking and set out without saying hello. Always regreted that as I read many of your posts and feel like I know you.
September will be… I am planning on that! Where from? I am in Texas. Please keep in touch so we can try to meet.
Hi Maggie. I am following your every step in hopes to try to replicate your camino. I would like your opinion about the weather. I cannot leave until after June and fear the summer months. Thinking about the fall but read that the wind and rain would not be too good. Please comment. I would love to come this year. Do not want to wait until the spring next year… I also see that the number of pilgrims on the way have increased making the run for a bed at an albergue an impossible task.
Sorry for the late response. And also sorry that I can’t help with the weather. I’ve only been in the north of Spain for my caminos and the weather is very variable. There are certainly more people walking right now than I have known before but I haven’t had trouble finding a bed yet.
Thanks for the reply. So sorry for your knee pain. I know how it feels. I see you are a strong and determined woman. That will keep you on your way. I am getting ready to follow your steps in September. Thanks for sharing.
Hola Maggie. I am with you each step and hopping to replicate your camino as soon as I can. Please comment on the weather if you please. I cannot leave until July and fear the summer heat. Have thought about doing it during the fall but read the rain and the wind are not good. I see the number of pilgrims on the camino have increased which makes the possibility of finding a bed at the end of the day a little difficult….Thanks for all you….Buen Camino
Rock on! Looks like you’re going great guns.
Hope the salad was as good as it looks! Like Angela I look forward every evening to reading about today’s walk. Thanks for sharing it with us.