I think there must be several options by which to leave Nueva that all come together sooner or later. After about 2 km we divert from the quiet road onto dirt track. I have downloaded two coastal options for the start of today’s walk. One goes immediately to the coast and the other joins it further down the official route.
Because it has rained quite heavily in the night and I guess that the wet grass will soon make a soggy mess of my shoes, we decide to take the second option – marked green on the map. I think if the weather were more agreeable the pink option would have been far preferable.
Although there is almost no rain by the time we set off, the air is very damp and the mist is really low. But when we reach the coast it is nevertheless even more rugged and more beautiful than any of the other headland tracks, although they’ve all been dazzling. But there are so many rock formations on this stretch, including countless natural arches (but none that I would dare to attempt to walk over) – it is just stunning.
We switch between the route I downloaded and a blue marked coastal path that has been signposted since Nueves and hugs the headland religiously. The track is a little overgrown in places and as the year progresses I guess the brambles and the gorse might well cause a few scratched legs
Of course there were constant ups and downs on the rocky track and eventually we gave in and worked our way back to the official route and arrived in the large town of Ribadesella at 16 km.
The rest of the walk was largely on quiet roads and we reached the village of Vega after 23.5 km. It felt like a lot more!
This is the second time I have visited the albergue ‘Tu Casa’ in Vega. And the third time I have met the owner Marina. The first was when she was a hospitalera at the albergue in Fuenterroble on the Via de la Plata in 2015. The second when I walked this route in 2016 and we stopped here for a drink before it had opened as an albergue. It is a small donativo, seven places. Over 60’s can reserve +34984100746. We are two danish women, an Italian guy, one Irish, one Dutch and we two Brits. A communal supper will be cooked and breakfast is provided. There is a lovely atmosphere.
The communal four course dinner was really good, and we all helped clear up afterwards. Well done Marina, it’s been a wonderful experience.
We got caught in a heavy downpour just about 1 km from our stage end. My new cover up was within easy reach and I managed to stay pretty dry. It’s the first time we have been rained upon in 11 days. Pretty good going for the north of Spain.