Sarsamarcuella to Ena, 27 km

Elevation gain 542 m

Elevation loss 525 m

Total distance walked 299 km

The 1st km and a half out of the town is a bit of a shock to the system – up, up and up again On very rough ground with big stones and rocks. You have to watch every step on these tracks to avoid tripping or twisting your ankle.

Then the track widens, which is less interesting but a bit easier to walk on.

The Castillo de Marcuello is in sight for a while before we arrive – it looks very different from different angles.

The track flattens eventually – it clings to the side of the mountain – rising up to the right and delving into the steep valley on the left with stunning never-ending views of the flat planes that we have walked across for days, but now with ridges of hills breaking it up.

It feels like we’re at the top of the world and the scenery is incredible with peaks rising in all directions and deep deep valleys in between. I can hear distant chimes of cow bells and catch a glimpse of a couple of black cows across the valley. This is about as perfect a stage as a camino can be.

We’ve been so lucky with the weather. After the first couple of days we have not experienced any rain. Sometimes the sun can be a bit too hot in the early afternoon but nothing totally unbearable. And today walking this incredible track in perfect conditions is spectacular.

When we reach the Castillo there are towering cliffs. And soon after impressive rock formations known as Mallos de Riglos. Every direction provides a new sight to marvel at.

And then we’re directed to turn down what I would describe as a steep stony rocky ravine which is very difficult to negotiate. It was extremely tricky – I take this sort of track really slowly and carefully. But I made it safely down to the bottom. Paul had been ahead of me before this and much later I could hear him tap-tapping behind – he had missed the ravine and walked an extra 2 km.

Once at the bottom, having breathed sigh of relief, I’m still walking downhill but much more gently on a track that runs through a forest. It’s shaded and cool and there’s a light breeze. It’s absolutely delightful and so entirely different from twenty minutes ago with that open mountain scenery.

The wildflowers are beautiful and delicate this morning gone are the poppies and back is the broom, wild roses , wild honeysuckle and dogwood and tiny flowers that look like miniature cistus both white and pink

Several motorbikes and a group of cyclists pass by without kicking up too much dust.

There’s a section with fencing protecting walkers from a severe drop. There are towering mountains of rock either side and the sound of rushing water deep down below. It rather reminds me of the Caminito del Rey.

And then I can see where the water is rushing – a beautiful wide twisting river deep down below. And soon enough I am walking over that river into the town of Estación la Peña having so far walked 15 km. Paul is already at the bar. It being Sunday the bar kitchen is closed as is the panaderia, but the ice cold Fanta tastes good! Marilyn limps in a while later – she’s still having issues with her leg.

Then we’re off again with a couple of kms on the road. As we walk along a car pulls up and we see Marilyn in the passenger seat. She very sensibly organised herself a lift to our stage end. Paul and I declined to join them and were soon directed off the road onto a steep climb over hard and rocky ground and then onto a narrow track for the pretty much rest of the stage, mostly through natural woodland with lots more climbing and some very welcome stretches of flat track.

There are a series of rock pools that we can see far below us, some of them with people bathing and we are exceptionally envious because when we set off on the second part of our walk it has become really hot and I am certainly glowing with the effort.

We finally found a spot where we could dip our feet in the ice cold water accompanied by a raucous chorus of frogs. I dipped my scarf in the water and really enjoyed the cooling effect on my neck.

It really was very hot and I found the last few kms very hard going. But I made it with the help of a couple of paracetamol.

We’re staying in the really beautiful village of Ena where all the buildings appear ancient, all built from stone – so charming. There albergue isn’t the exception and it’s as excellent inside as it is pretty outside – perhaps the loveliest albergue I have stayed in! But there are absolutely no facilities in the village – no bar or shop, which is why we have been carrying food with us for a day and a half.

Essential to call ahead, 670 406 469, 8 places, €5. No shop or. bar – TAKE FOOD. Very well reviewed.