Bolea to Sarsamarcuello, 19.75 km

Elevation gain 539 m

Elevation loss 546 m

Total distance walked 272 km

Well, that was a night not to be staying at the alberge in Botea. At about 10:40 pm I received a WhatsApp message from the hospitalero telling me that six pilgrims were due to arrive and have they come yet? Marilyn and Paul had already been asleep for awhile. Four, rather than six, eventually turned up at 1:30 in the morning and although they were as respectful and quiet as possible they inevitably caused a very disturbed night. And then there were very loud noises coming from the adjacent sport centre from about 5 am and when I got up at 5:30 there were many voices to be heard. It turns out today is the day that a walk/run starts in Bolea and preparations involved the dragging of tables and chairs and chatter and scraping and banging.

As we were preparing to leave this morning, one of the late arrivals came down to talk to us saying she was from Barcelona, the Confraternity of the Camino Catalán, and that her jolly band were spending the weekend painting the very excellent yellow arrows. I mentioned the contradiction of arrows at times and she said that new signposts have been installed that indicate the direction and distance to various villages but she says if ever there is a conflict between the arrows and the signposts, take the arrows.

The scenery has changed a lot today. We are now walking through olive and almond groves with dry stone walls separating the plots on rocky ground

It soon becomes apparent that the walking/running group are taking the same route as us. One keen guy has passed us already and I just hope and pray that the hundreds of others aren’t quite so spritely. My worst nightmare would be to walk amongst a huge group of people.

The mountains to our right are coming closer and closer and we can see the Castillo de Loarre high up ahead.

Some madness propelled me to take the diversion from the camino route up to the castle. I’m sure I won’t regret it when I get there but the tremendous climb up the zigzaging track is taking some considerable effort. A few people have passed me from the village, but of course they are not carrying ten kilos on their backs. Luckily there is a lot of cloud cover today otherwise this walk would have been even more of an effort in strong sunlight.

Saw a hoopoe bird today, but not for long enough to take a photo. I made it to the castle but guess what? It isn’t open, and that’s okay. I met my challenge and can see it up close and personal.

I don’t know if there is a formal way down from the castle towards the town of Loarre but I didn’t want to go back the way I came or take the long and winding road, so instead I looked on maps.me and found some very narrow very rocky overgrown tracks. There’s an awful lot of horse poo on a very narrow stretch, luckily none of it is very fresh but I’m keeping my fingers crossed that I don’t have to pass any four-legged friends. These tracks kept me off the road with the exception of about 30m and it has been very pleasant indeed. And in addition I feel that I have really challenged myself both going up and coming down. I do like a challenge now and then.

Once we reach the town of Loarre it’s necessary to buy sufficient food to last for the next two days as there is no opportunity to purchase anything between here and the rest of this stage, or the next, and there is no guarantee of being able to find sustenance.

Loarre is a charming, lively town and Paul and I enjoy a lunch of huevos y patatas and a couple of cold drinks before Marilyn catches up with us and we visit the panaderia which also sells a variety of other goods to keep us in food for them next couple of days. It’s a good place to hang out for a couple of hours as our stage end is a very small and quiet village and we don’t want to get there too early.

The Last stretch of this stage is less than 5 km albeit mostly uphill and we are checked in to the albergue and are joined by a bicigrino. We establish with the hospitalero that we can actually eat at the social club this evening, so that’s good news.

Albergue, C. de la iglesia, s/n, 618 614 669, €8, eight places, no reservations, kitchen, no shop – bring food, although possible to eat at social club.