Camino Catalân, stage 11

Huesca to Bolea, 25 km

Elevation gain 283 m

Elevation loss 85 m

Total distance 252 km

This morning the views on my blog tripped over one million. I know that’s small fry compared to the big guys, but it’s big fry to me. Thanks so much to everyone who takes the time to read my posts.

We walk through Huesca under a very grey sky although there is no forecast for rain.

I’ve noticed in Spain, on this trip generally, there are very many pedestrian crossings and drivers are very respectful of them. Here in Huesca they are at every possible junction.

We finally make it out of the city and onto a track at just over 3 km from the alberge, which is someway out of town the other side

It seems to have rained quite heavily during the night. The roads are all quite wet with big puddles here and there. After leaving town we’re walking on a very quiet back lane with virtually no passing traffic. And then onto a dirt track alongside the N240 motorway. Soon enough we turn away from the thundering traffic onto a gravel path In the countryside.

We reach the first village, Chimillas , at 8 km and take a hot drink in the very nice bar. There is, of course, a stork nesting on the church tower, but this is a high rise affair – I guess each year the new tenants build a new storey.

There’s a bit of shade occasionally with tree lined paths now and then

I found a lovely shady spot and stopped for a munch break at 15 km and when I moved on I discovered Paul a few metres ahead who had been taking a break around the corner.

Now we have some undulation in the land. The far wheatfields give the effect of velvet – absolutely stunning – as far as the eye can see green green swathes of land.

We occasionally see lots of damsel flies and the occasional dragonfly – beautiful bright blue in colour.

The forecast this morning was for sun all day, but on checking again later in the morning it showed rain from midday onwards. Midday has recently come and gone with no wet stuff yet. It is very hot today and humid and this is the first day on this camino that I have been “glowing”. To be honest, the rain would be rather welcome in order to cool me down.

I’m wondering today why some crops are thoroughly watered with sprinkling devices and yet today there is no sign of any irrigation channel and no sprinklers but the crops look about the most healthy we have seen – maybe it is because it is more humid here

Poppies hereabouts are plentiful and joyous – it’s such a treat to be walking alongside them all day long.

I haven’t mentioned the pig factories the last couple of blog posts but that doesn’t mean they haven’t been present in their dozens. Less so today but there have been a few still. Some look like ruins from another era others bright and white and shiny. They all have silos and they are all low lying. The stench is totally obnoxious and carries for kilometres – if the wind is blowing in your direction it can knock you sideways, the smell that is, not the wind. Many of these units are situated close to villages and I wonder what the long-term health implications are from being in this environment, breathing in these awful fumes day after day, month after month, year after year. I live just a couple of kilometres from water treatment plant which for the most part efficiently contains its smells, but very occasionally maybe once or twice a month in summer the smell reaches a neighbouring housing estate. The local voices are loud and clear in protest, and there is also a system for making complaints to the water company. I suspect there are no such means of complaint for the local people that suffer this horrendous stench so frequently.

We actually saw our first roaming cows today – that was a treat.

A huge outcrop loomed large for the last section of our walk and I was very much hoping that Bolea was not atop it. No such luck. The severe climb at the end of the day was a bit of a challenge but once we caught our breath all was forgiven.

Bolea is a large village with a couple of bars/restaurants. Although food is not served until later in the evening (9pm), when I asked nicely both were willing to cook for us much earlier. There is a tabac shop that sells a strange variety of goods , including cheese and sweet pastries, and a bread shop with more variety that closes at 13:00 and doesn’t open until 10:00 – so not much use to us.

The albergue is an odd affair. I phoned to advise of our arrival and the hospitalero sent me a little video showing how to get in. It’s situated right at the far edge of the village. There are beds for eight, cost €10, with equipped kitchen – off which is the shower with vaguely see-through doors – not too disconcerting amongst respectful friends, but maybe a bit alarming amongst strangers (and some pilgrims can be very strange! 😉)

All in all, another very enjoyable day on the camino, without any rain!

About magwood

Trepidatious Traveller - camino blog is about preparing for and walking the Camino de Santiago. Many future pilgrims have found the blog useful and inspiring, and many who have no plans to walk the camino have simply enjoyed the dialogue http://www.magwood.me
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2 Responses to Camino Catalân, stage 11

  1. Nina says:

    Love the stork photo!

    Like

  2. Janice Tyler says:

    love seeing all your lovely photos x

    Like

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