Vilanova de Arousa to Pontesecures by boat 28 km
Pontesecures to Santiago de Compostela on foot, 28.4 km
https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/puentecesures-catedral-de-santiago-237882833
Last night’s accommodation was at Albergue A Corticela, €20 each. Nicely presented, maybe 12 places – we were in a room for 4. We were planning to do a major laundry session so that we could arrive into Santiago nice and fresh but there was no tumble drier and no outside space to hang washing so we didn’t dare. Therefore we shall enter Santiago as did pilgrims over the ages – a bit stinky – one of us a bit more stinky than the other 😉
Today’s stage commences with a boat ride at 08:00. Cost €30 per person. It’s a little (a lot) more comfortable, and a great deal warmer, than my last experience of this trip. Today we are travelling inside a large boat whereas as previously we were transported on a rib, great fun but…
Then v now…
It’s possible to walk along the Rio Ulla into Padron but this boat trip is accepted by the Pilgrims’ Office as a bona fide form of transport and it’s very pleasant. It covers around 28km and leaves a further 28 km to walk into Santiago. The start time is tide dependent and today’s 08:00 departure makes the onward walk a better prospect than last time when we departed at 10:00 meaning that we didn’t arrive into Santiago until 18:30. Also we have the promise of another sunny blue sky day so that will help us along way.
I count 44 pilgrims on the boat – and we are offered free hot drinks, orange juice, and cakes throughout the journey (of which Mikey takes great advantage).
It’s lovely to watch the sun come up and reflect on the ocean. We pass by mussel beds – over 2,000 of them according to the Captain – Spain is the second largest mussel producer in world.
We land at 09:45 and it’s very cold when we disembark. I have to find my gloves to stop my hands going numb. Every time we’ve found ourselves close to water the temperature seems to drop a few degrees and the wind picks up. Luckily it’s a very sunny day.
We take the short walk into Padron, where Mikey scans his phone for a convenient supermarket to purchase snacks for the day. I dissuade him from buying a couple of giant mangoes which would add more than a kilo to his pack weight and advise that there will be plenty opportunities in Santiago.
We are walking on roads since leaving the boat some narrow lanes through tiny hamlets, some major roads but not for too long, and some quite busy without any shoulder which is not very nice. Mikey is feeling a bit weary so we’ve taken a couple of stops.
As the day progresses it gets very warm and I become the weary one whilst Mikey finds a new lease of energy and bullies me to continue without another break.
After a long, long day we finally enter the outskirts of Santiago. Mikey is now really determined to find his much desired mango and pops into several shops along the way but can’t find any that are suitably ripe.
We finally reach Praza do Obradoiro (the cathedral square) at 17:30, exactly as we had predicted. At my insistence we have a brief hug, I wipe a tear or two, and take the obligatory selfie.
And there it is! Another camino completed. A very different camino for me and perhaps the most special since my first that I walked with my daughter Ella.
I love Santiago. The splendour of the historic buildings, the grand squares and narrow alleyways, the familiarity after so many visits.
We continue the short distance to our lodgings for the next three nights – it’s not far, in fact directly opposite the north entrance to cathedral. I have opted to stay at the Hospidaria San Martin Pinario, a huge and ancient monastery, now converted to an hotel. They reserve the very basic rooms on the fourth floor for pilgrims at a special rate of €30 per night. The albergue I usually use is now charging €22 for a bunk bed in a dorm so it doesn’t seem too much of an extravagance to stay here and give us both the treat of the privacy of a wall between us.
Mikey takes to his room and dives on his bed to watch a movie for 90 minutes whilst I get changed and wander out for a glass of wine. But then my Nana instincts overcome my need for alcohol and I go in search of mangoes and return triumphant bearing fruit.
Later we find a restaurant for a shared pizza and I can finally scratch my wine itch while Mikey plans his next camino.
He also mentions in passing that this has been one of the best holidays he’s ever had!
Nana duties well and truly accomplished
Trepidatious traveller - camino blog 
Brava Maggie!
LikeLike
Thanks Richard
LikeLike
Congratulations to you both! What a fantastic group of memories you have made. It was a pleasure following you again!
LikeLike
Thank you Margery. And thanks for following along.
LikeLike
Congrats Mikey and Maggie! A very touching end to your Camino 🙂
xx
LikeLike
Thank you my friend. See you in 2026 xx
LikeLike
Congrats to you both! I also someday have dreams of such a camino with my 3 Granddaughters but it will have to wait a bit as they are still just 6 years, 4 years and 6 months old:).
LikeLike
Three granddaughters! They will be a handful. Maybe one at a time as they get old enough
LikeLiked by 1 person
Haha for sure!
LikeLike
Truly one to remember and for Mikey a lifetime experience to boot (ho, ho). Thanks for letting all your readers tag along. Been a good one. XX
LikeLike
Cheers Lyn. We must have a catch up soon x
LikeLike
Well done to you both !
I’ve followed quite a few of your previous caminos on a different web platform when you walked with your South African camiga buddy and others, and have always found your descriptions to be concise and informative.
This last camino seems rather short by contrast but was full of your usual very interesting narrative and photos.
I’m delighted that Mikey has already decided that it’s been his best holiday ever, no doubt he’ll return in future to do many more caminos.
Congrats again from Dublin.
Martin.
LikeLike
I hope so Martin. It was short due to fitting into half term break, and I think it was enough for his first experience at his age. I’m still regularly in touch with Marilyn from SA. Hopefully we’ll walk together again some day.
LikeLike
Well done both of you!
Marian
LikeLike
Thanks Marian. We must meet up soon x
LikeLike
Yes, indeed!
LikeLike
very well done and most interesting read xx
LikeLike
Thanks Janice. Always lovely to hear from you xx
LikeLike
I am keeping an eye out for you!
LikeLike
Are you in Santiago?
LikeLike
Well done on the nana duties as well as creating some wonderful memories!! I wish you both well. It has been a delight reading and following this Camino of yours Maggie!
LikeLike
Bravo, sad the rib didn’t run, I well remember the mussel farms. Pinario such a good choice. Felica is a small family run hotel restaurant round the corner, not as big as Costa Vella but authentic . If memory serves me right I liked A Horta de Obradoiro and Occuro da Parra?? too. I cannot wait to walk with our little Mateo. Cx
LikeLiked by 1 person
casa Felisa
LikeLike
Too busy to read this yesterday, I am catching up! Tears in my eyes, too, as I read about your last day and your arrival in Santiago. I love the photos. The pomegranates, persimmon and pussycats particularly charmed me.
I also loved the alternations in your weariness.
You make me hope that one day I can walk with one or more of grandsons — maybe all three! But I am 80 now and the oldest of them is nearing 10, so I’m not sure we’ll make it. Plus, it is a long way to travel from the USA. I, too, have stayed often at St. Martin de Pinario. The last time, we opted for the regular hotel room, rather than the pilgrim rooms on the upper floor. Congratulations.
LikeLike
Well done to both of you
LikeLike