Cifuentes to Mandayona, 27.5 km

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After settling into our hostal yesterday afternoon we returned to bar Soraya where there was a bit of a party going on. Very loud music, a bit of karaoke and much dancing and jollity. The sort of happiness that the Spanish do so well. We were invited to join in and of course we did, with a bit of a jig that turned into a conga. Fabulous atmosphere, fabulous people, fabulous experience!

Now on to today…

We have a late start because the coffee addicts need a fix and the bar we are told opens at seven on a Sunday is in the opposite direction from our exit route. When we reach said bar it is firmly closed.

So we make our way up to the church where there are various camino signs telling us which way to go. The first part of the way is on the road albeit a very quiet one. There’s unlikely to be any traffic early on a Sunday of a bank holiday weekend. The last time we walked this route we didn’t stop in Cifuentes  but walked on and took a diversion to stay in a truckstop on the main road. So this time we shall be discovering a short stage we haven’t walked before.

We’re on a track at around 2 km. It starts off sandy and compacted with a few puddles. 

The sky is very grey with low cloud and quite foggy in places. We reach village one, Moranchel, after 6 km. There are no services here but some pretty painted properties. 

Then we’re on the road for 1.5 km. It’s sometimes quite nice to walk on the road, particularly one where no cars are passing and you’re surrounded by beautiful scenery and it’s only for a couple of kilometres. It can be a pleasant change from a gravelly/muddy path.

The next track is of the terracotta variety and is damp enough to stick to my boots. There’s a central grass strip but then my boots get soaked and it’s a difficult call – wet or muddy. 

The next village is Las Inviernas at 13 km. We stop at a bar and just as we’re about to leave the heavens open and chuck out all the water they have available, and then they find a backup supply and empty that on us as well!

We wait it out in the bar until the worst is over but it’s still raining pretty hard when we finally get going. 

There’s a  2km hike uphill on leaving the village. And a big drop in temperature which somehow gives me super powers and suddenly I’m striding out really fast – easily ahead of the other two – and yet I didn’t seem to be making any great effort. But with speed comes rising body temperature and with rising body temperature comes slowing down of the legs for some unknown reason.

Once we get to the top of the hill the track completely flattens and a huge plateau appears before us, laid to crops on both sides of the track making a massive patchwork of various shades of green against the dark, dark sky. It just looks stunning. 

Luckily the track isn’t too sticky with mud – yet  – but that happens as we progress. 

We eventually reach a minor road after walking almost 22 km and we can see a petrol station with cafe up ahead. We’re absolutely soaked and our boots are full of mud and we probably aren’t the most welcome of visitors, but they serve an excellent bacon bocadillo and cola cao.  

But the rain continues whilst we walk on to village three, Mirabueno about 1.5 km further along. The ‘mira’ isn’t quite as bueno as the last time we saw it due to the fog.

But the walk from here to our stage end was absolutely beautiful over a narrow winding track down hill to our destination at Mandayona, 27.5 km

Strangely none of us feel tired after our walk. It may be that we had a short day yesterday, but it feels more likely that it’s to do with the cooler weather urging us on. 

I discovered yesterday that Mandayona town hall no longer offers pilgrim accommodation and the other options in the village are unavailable. We retreat to the bar and after long discussions we arrange a taxi to take us to to the end of the next stage in the beautiful ancient city of Sigüenza. We definitely don’t want to miss this stage as it is one of the most stunning camino  walks I have ever taken. So we will taxi back to  Mandayona tomorrow morning. 

Nina and I set a new custom last year by staying in a parador for an extra special treat, and as the parador in Sigüenza just happens to be housed in the castle atop a hill overlooking the town we couldn’t think of a better place to continue the tradition. 

We arrived at reception bedraggled and most unlike their normal clientele asking if they had a special rate for pilgrims. The computer said ‘no’ but the charming receptionist gave us what seems a very reasonable rate for the night, arranged a taxi for the morning and said we could leave whatever gear we wanted in left-luggage to be collected after our walk, when we will come back down to earth and stay in the pilgrim accommodation at the convent in town.

After a luxurious shower we wander out around the town, find a lovely restaurant (L’Antigua) and return to our fairytale accommodation.