So…more discussions were held after our arrival into Sigüenza yesterday…
Accommodation has become a bit of an issue on this camino. The next stage after Sigüenza is a long one – 30+ km into Atienza with much elevation gain and loss and an interminable slog on a rough stone path at the end. Please don’t let me put any would-be Lana pilgrims off – we walked this stage last time and enjoyed it well enough.
There are four stages involved in this explanation:
1 Sigüenza to Atienza
2 Atienza to Retortillo de Soria
3 Retortillo de Soria to Caracena
4 Caracena to San Esteban de Gormaz
The two stages into Retortillo de Soria and Caracena, have no accommodation available right now (although I am told that Retortillo will open their beautiful albergue in the middle of May).
I’m not exactly sure how the decision was made (there was a glass or two of wine involved) but we decided to miss the next stage into Atienza, and take a taxi there instead. Then use Atienza as a base for the following two stages, taxiing to and fro.
We had previously stayed in Hostal Santo Cristo in Atienza which was a pleasant if slightly unique experience. So I phoned Modesto and attempted to explain our plan (a little alcohol always boosts my confidence when conversing in Spanish 😉). He seemed to get the gist and was agreeable, so I called Arturo, our charming taxi driver from this morning, and he turned up in no time and whisked us off to Atienza. En route the promised downpour arrived and we were extremely pleased not to be out walking in it.
I’m guessing the Hostal Santo Cristo isn’t used a great deal, it’s very tired, the bar downstairs was closed for the day and we all felt a bit jaded. Up in the centre of the village there are a few bars but not the sort that would entice you in if you weren’t in need of a place to keep warm.
So more discussions ensued – Nina and I definitely didn’t want to stay any longer than one night in the Hostal. We decided the easiest option was to miss the next three stages, making it four in all. Of course we’ve already walked them when there were places to stay.
We asked Modesto if he would drive us to San Esteban de Gormaz the next day (today) and he agreed.
Paul is very easygoing and is happy with the new plan.
So after a hearty breakfast we piled into Modesto’s old banger and off we set for the 60km drive.
We found lovely accommodation in San Esteban – Hotel Rural La Bodega de Baldomero at a reasonable cost and have hung out here for the day.

As we drove through the countryside Nina and I both had second thoughts at missing all those lovely views, especially the spectacular stage from Caracena but we’ve gone and done it now – onwards and upwards!
I shall post links to the days we’re missing in case anyone is interested in seeing what we aren’t doing. It all feels right and wrong at the same time.
I saw my first stork today – always very exciting and a great treat

There’s no point in second thoughts! Now you have 3 bonus days to fill with different adventures.
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There’s no point in second thoughts! Now you have 3 bonus days to fill with different adventures.
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I’m jealous of the stork sighting! And all those birds.
The lack of lodging is why I’m hesitant to do this Camino. As you’ve done those stages already, I think it was a fantastic solution to the problem. Looking forward to more of your adventures and ¡Buen Camino!
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Oh the inner conflict of an Albarino affected decision tehe. Your trio can alter plans when ever they feel the need to, no longer driven to be walking these stages with all those obstacles detailed. A good call in my view and of course no judgement. Is taxigrino a word? Looking forward to further reports and pics.
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Lovely pictures Maggie. I’m trying one more time, determined not to be beaten by these glitches on replying to your very interesting blog. As previously every day is different and just take what feels right at the time. Enjoy your extra days. Xx
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whoop whoop got there.
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You’ve walked it before … you don’t have to prove anything to anyone ! Sad that accommodations that were available last time you covered those stages are no longer available. It would have been an easier decision to continue walking …. But .. sometimes you have to make hard decisions.
I’m wondering why the accomodations are no longer there ?
buen camino everyone. 👣👣👣👣👣
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