Tineo to Borres, 15.8 km

I manage to get Mikey up and out for 07:30 – something of a miracle (but we did get an extra hour due to the clocks going back during the night) and it was just getting light as we left. 

Due to two days with no opportunity to buy food we have stocked up and have to adjust to the extra weight in our packs. I have a bit of cheese, jamon, a pot of hummus, some thin toast like biscuits and fruit. Mikey went off to buy some extra food and returned with two huge cans of pineapple, two giant mangoes and goodness knows what else. I begged him to dump the cans but he always knows best so he dragged them along for the ride. 

After a lung-busting 1 km climb out of town we reach a dirt track that circles the top of the valley.

There’s quite a stiff breeze.  Mikey decided not to wear his coat and he’s feeling a bit chilly and I decided to wear my coat and I’m already feeling the glow. 

No sooner do I stop to take my coat off than we round a bend into a deafening, blustering headwind that feels as though it could easily blow us off track. I just hope no trees come down to block the way.

After 5 km, we reach the peak of our current hill at just over 900 metres so now we have the gusty powerful wind beating us from both sides as we walk along the open crest. In the distance we can see the end of a rainbow.

Then we start to go gently downhill with a short stretch on a quiet road and then into woodland and pick our way through leaf litter and sweet chestnut casings.  The wind is less forceful now we’re sheltered by the trees. 

We stop for a break and a bite of breakfast at 10 km, and are joined by a delightful tabby kitten who wants all the attention and any food that’s on offer.  Her doggy pal joins us for a while before we set off again. Two Spanish pilgrims pass us as we rest and they are the only others we see during the walk. 

The views over the valleys on this stage have been stunning throughout. 

After our break we’re on the road for a while and pass through Campiello which is completely shut down cutting 44 beds in two albergues, and there are another 21 beds unavailable in a couple more albergues that are closed.  So there are just 20 beds available where there would normally be 85. 

Due to really poor reviews I would not have chosen to stay in the Santa Maria albergue in Borres. But we have no choice. I fear there will be a real scramble for the beds. However as it happens we are first to arrive and register at the village bar where I am ceremoniously handed the key and find the place not to be as bad as I feared. Don’t get me wrong, it’s far from lovely (other than the amazing views). Eighteen beds in normal bunks (not three-tier as reported), only two bathrooms, virtually no kitchen facilities or lounging space, and rather cold, but clean enough and a roof for the night. Blankets are provided but no paper sheets. 

So far we seem to be only ten pilgrims here. Apparently some people have taken a taxi to the end of tomorrow’s stage and will taxi back in the morning to walk over the mountain.