Berducedo to Castro, 26 km

Firstly, many thanks for all the lovely comments. I really do appreciate them.

Immediately on leaving the albergue this morning we have a steep track that has me puffing like a steam train.

I can see the sun rising to the back of me and the moon going down to the front. 

I know there is another huge hill after we’ve finished with this one and then ever downwards.

The killer hill comes at about 4.5 km and there is only one way I can take it – very slowly with a lot of heavy breathing. Happily, it’s on tarmac so it’s very easy underfoot.

I’ve reached what I hope is the top at 5.8 km just as the rain starts to spit and the the wind picks up

The road continues downhill for a while then diverts onto a very narrow dirt track leading across a field, and deep down below I can see the Rio Navía. 

When I walked this route in 2017, a fire had ravished the mountainside only two weeks earlier. All of the pine trees were decimated and the smell of burnt pine was really, really strong. I didn’t know what to expect this year because I’ve been told that pine trees do not regenerate, although I’m guessing seeds from pine cones might grow. And nine years later there are plenty of small fir trees growing, many a couple of meters high and some twice my height. All beautifully bright green and absolutely delightful. It’s a joy to see nature put itself right after the ravages of what was probably started by human hand. 

The slate covered track runs steeply downhill towards the dam (Embalse de Salime), zigzagging as it goes. And now that I’ve dropped some considerable height, the wind has calmed and it’s not quite as fresh as it was.

On reflection the taller trees are lining the path and I guess these have actually been planted. 

It’s amazing how much I’ve forgotten about this walk.  Yesterday the second half was a complete mystery to me and today the big (4 km) drop down to the dam looks very different from my memory.  I only remember the steep walk down through the burned pine plantation, but there’s also some elevation and about two thirds down we are walking through pretty natural woodland.  However, I do recall it being exhausting taking such care for so long on a loose stone path, and I certainly feel that way again today.

We break out of the woods onto the road that runs down to and across the dam. The water level is startlingly low.

And then there’s a trek up the other side. We stop at Hotel las Grandas (15 km) for a drink and a generous slice of tortilla Español.  Then up the winding AS-14 for about another 4 km and by the time we are near the top we can no longer see the other side of the gorge as fog has come in thick and fast.

Soon after we’re directed off-road onto a steeply rising narrow woodland path, where we stay until we reach the town of Grandas de Salime. 

It started raining quite heavily at this point so not many more photos or words. But the last 5+ km was intermittently on road and pathways through woodland and farm tracks and despite the rain was quite lovely. 

We finally reach my favourite albergue at Castro, where we are joined by lovely pilgrims from Italy, Austria and Portugal and all sit down to a most enjoyable supper.

I’m very pleased to have our washing done which gets presented to us neatly folded. Cost of a bed €18, supper €12 and washing/drying €8.