Camino Mozárabe – day 10 – Córdoba to Cerro Muriano 19 km

We had a very leisurely start this morning, and partook of the included breakfast at the youth hostal. The things I don’t like about youth hostels are the youths. There were lots of them – dozens and dozens. Teenagers en masse make me a bit anxious, although I have to say these kids were very well behaved – it was just that there were so many of them.

So we set off at around 08:45 in search of the church of Santiago, which we found – but as I suspected it was locked up, so no special stamp for my credencial.

We had no specific instructions for exiting Córdoba, so here are a few pointers. Find the road Calle Corregidor Luis de la Cerda, which is between the back of the Mezquita and the swanky new information office, and follow this road with the river to your right. Keep a lookout for signs, you will see a series of ceramic tiles as in the picture below, all at well above head height.


All will be well until you reach the corner opposite the central library where the sign is on an angled wall and rather ambiguous. Turn left here and then right into Calle Segunto and look out for Clinica Los Angeles on a left hand corner, turn here and immediately turn right into Calle Cinco Caballeros, straight across the major road Avenida Carlos III where you will pick up regular arrows on lamp posts and trees.

It was a lovely walk today, firstly through meadow land and occasionally crossing a road to regain a narrow track. And eventually onto a steeply rising rocky path surrounded by stunning wild flowers – beautiful walking – just like being at home in the mountains.


About halfway through the walk we passed through a very odd town, with hundreds of similar looking yellow houses and virtually no sign of life – a bit reminiscent of the ghost town by the golf course on the camino Frances.


The weather was warm and hot at times and it was quite hard work walking steeply uphill on the rough ground but the surroundings made it all very worthwhile.


I took it easy today. My right foot is still a bit swollen (I think through lacing my boots too tight) but it is getting better. The elevation on today’s walk helped I think, pounding out the kms on a level surface doesn’t seem to suit me at all.



And it was a short day with a big treat at the end of it. We are staying in the small town of Cerro Muriano where a Dutch couple have opened an albergue ‘Acogida de Peregrios’ tel 691 923 145. Maria and Jan have walked the camino and trained and served as voluntary hospitaleros and worked in the pilgrims’ office in Santiago, so they have an excellent understanding of what s pilgrim needs. They are a very kind and interesting couple who made us most welcome and I would highly recommend a stay here. They have seven beds spread between several rooms so we were once again able to have a room each. A hot shower, a sunny garden to hang the washing and a good wifi connection to boot – what more could a pilgrim want?


George has gone into the village to eat this evening, but I decided to buy a few supplies at the shop and have made myself a ham and cheese sandwich (with a boiled egg kindly donated by Maria’s chickens (well the chickens didn’t actually boil it). And I have also replenished my fruit and nuts for the next couple of days, and bought a bottle of ‘young green’ wine (only 5%, so no worries about a hangover) for only 1.5€, which I was glad to share around in return for the warm welcome that we were given.


Distance according to wikiloc (my own recording) 17.4km, but I forgot to turn it on until we had walked about 2 km, do say 19 km. Fitbit recorded steps 27,244
Accumulated elevation uphill 488 metres
Accumulated elevation downhill 54 metres
Total distance walked 258.2 km, average 25.8 km per day

Today’s spend – Fanta 1.5€, water 1.2€, shopping 9.4€, albergue donation 10€. Total 22.1€
Nine days total spend 251.9€

About magwood

Trepidatious Traveller - camino blog is about preparing for and walking the Camino de Santiago. Many future pilgrims have found the blog useful and inspiring, and many who have no plans to walk the camino have simply enjoyed the dialogue
This entry was posted in Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Camino Mozarabe and tagged , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

31 Responses to Camino Mozárabe – day 10 – Córdoba to Cerro Muriano 19 km

  1. zohar says:

    you are late by 30 minutes to day delivering your post:) but, as any other day, I waited for you, although I live 2 hours earlyer, to enjoy your post.


  2. Laurie says:

    Following you once again, Maggie! Thanks for all the walking details, they will come in handy for those of us nuts on the forum who have an endless list of Caminos to walk. it sounds like your walk is going very well, thanks for posting for often, it’s fun to read from afar. Buen camino, Laurie


  3. janpow123 says:

    Hi Maggie, I wait for your postings too and they always make me smile… and there’s not many people who can do that, so thank you! I’m glad you posted the photo of your clothes drying on the airer as I had been concerned about how you could wash your ‘smalls’ while on the road! So far, are there any significant differences (other than the landscape) to your previous camino?

    Liked by 1 person

  4. Leona says:

    Again, you didn’t disappoint in painting a beautiful word and photo chronology of your pilgrimage. Thank you.

    Liked by 1 person

  5. Today’s walk down the flower-walled path put me in mind of a Sunday afternoon walk. Sorry to hear about your swollen foot. As always, you take wonderful pictures of flowers, the terrain and km. walked. I am in awe. Keep well. I always look forward to your posts. ❤

    Liked by 1 person

  6. AJ says:

    I arrived Cerrio Murriano by 1 pm so decided to press on to Villaharta only to find the hostal closed for renovations and the Ayto closed. A lady in the resto told me to take a bus to Espiel which I did. Al turned out well.

    Liked by 1 person

  7. Cheri scott says:

    You take such wonderful pictures. I love reading your posts and in awe of your km/per hour. As with others following your posts daily with anticipation. Buen camino Maggie

    Liked by 1 person

  8. mary lynch says:

    As with many of the above people, Maggie, I look forward to your posts very much. The photos today were gorgeous. Glad your foot is making a recovery. Your accommodation today sounded
    five star. Well done to the Dutch couple. Buen Camino.

    Liked by 1 person

  9. Carel says:

    Good to read about the good work of two fellow Dutchmen,

    Liked by 1 person

  10. heather coffin says:

    Sounds like a good day and the photos are beautiful. If only all your overnight stays were as good. Hope your foot continues to improve. Enjoying following your journey Maggie. Well done you. Love Heather xxx

    Liked by 1 person

  11. Irish Sue says:

    Hello from Ireland Maggie. It is now part of my morning tea break routine to read your daily posts. I am so full of admiration. I think you are an inspiration to many of your readers. So, sending you lots of irish good luck & God speed. Buen Camino mi Amiga. I’ll be in Competa for May & June so we can catch up properly then. Take care, Sue xx

    Liked by 1 person

  12. I agree with you on the youth hostels. Even in my 20s I didn’t like them! I also relate to being at home in the mountains. Reading this makes me yearn to be on the Camino even more than I already do but until the incessant rain (since November) stops, I’m going to have to keep waiting. Buen Camino!

    Liked by 1 person

  13. martinandbethjackson says:

    I must confess it came as a huge suprise that the chickens did not boil the egg. Here in Portugal there is no stopping them ! Aproveite o caminho (enjoy the camino).All the best to you both.Another walker.

    Liked by 1 person

  14. Keith Rocks says:

    Lovely pics

    Liked by 1 person

  15. Lee Tolman says:

    Hi Maggie,
    You are far past Cerro Muriano (well on your way on the Plata) but I just wanted to say that Gert-Jan wrote me last week saying that you stayed with them and when there asked if they had met me when I did the Mozárabe from Granada (LTfit forum). He apparently pointed to a picture he took of me when I was there in October. Small world.
    Ultreia! I love the Plata (done it twice). Un abrazo

    Liked by 1 person

  16. harmterstege says:

    Hi Maggie, your information is really helpful. I am on the Camino now, from Almería. But unfortunately I have to say that the Dutch people have left Spain for various reasons. Of course there’s plenty places to stay and I really enjoyed the place and the help of the very friendly owner of Bar Hostal X in Cerro Muriano. Still, so many read this so I just wanted to let you know! Take care, I saw you’re back to the UK. And thanks again for all detailed information! Looking forward to the long stage tomorrow. I am blogging in Dutch at maybe this helps future Dutch people doing the Mozarabe.


    • magwood says:

      Many thanks for your comment and my sincere apologies for not responding sooner. Those Dutch guys were really kind. When I passed through Cerro Muriano in 2018 we had to stay at the Workers Union place which was a bit odd and a bit expensive I seem to remember, but nevertheless a welcome place to rest our heads. There are constant changes in accommodation opportunities on all the caminos. Current research is always needed to keep up to date.
      Buen camino, Maggie


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