Camino Mozárabe- day 11 – Cerro Muriano to Villaharta 22.8 km

After a good night’s sleep, we set off this morning shortly before 08:00. The weather was quite fresh, plenty of cloud and a cool breeze, but the forecast was for sunshine. I had decided to wear a sleeveless merino T-shirt this morning, but I needed some extra warmth to begin with, so I had to tuck my fleece sleeves under my bra straps to keep them in place. For the last couple of days I have also started to wear my ‘buff infinity’ (long loop of bamboo fabric) to keep the sun off the back of my neck. The new T-shirt worked well, it was nice to have my arms entirely uncovered when it warmed up later in the day.

The first few kilometres were spent walking along the road which runs between a huge military complex, but we were eventually directed onto meadowland and a variety of tracks through Holm oak woodland and rocky paths, along a disused road covered in rutted dirt, beside a long unused railway line, on quiet country roads, sandy tracks lined with beautiful flowers and rough gravelly tracks.

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At 13 km we stopped at the only village we passed through today, where we found a cafe that was overflowing with people, a dozen or so cyclists, bikers, lorry drivers and locals, all enjoying sweet pastries or eating toast spread with olive oil and puréed tomato. It was manic and interesting to watch the waiters juggling the orders.

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Just another 9.5 km to walk, which was again on a variety of surfaces and never far away from the main N432 road.

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We arrived at our destination of Villaharta at around 12:30 and stopped for a drink at the first place in the village – Bar Mirasierra, where we are staying the night for 15€ for a room each and a shared bathroom. Also with Ukitchen facilities and huge sun terrace. My notes tell me that the town hall offer the floor and a shower in the sports hall, but the telephone number given is a landline, and the chance of getting an answer on a Saturday is entirely remote. Added to that, I am not in the slightest bit keen to sleep on the floor. The host at Mirasierra is a lovely chap who is very helpful.

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Tomorrow is a very long day with no villages between here and our destination 38 km away. It has been suggested that there are three options.
1) our host will drive us to a point 17.5 km along the track where it runs close to the road and we can start walking the remaining 20+ km from there.
2) we can walk to the above mentioned point and telephone our host to collect us and we can stay another night here and in the morning he will return us to the same place for us to finish the walk in two stages
3) we just go for it in one go.

We have decided on option 3 and will have to take extra water supplies and enough food to stoke the engines.

So far, this Camino is very different from the French and Portuguese routes, where you pass through many small towns and villages most days. The Mozarabe until now has run almost entirely across country, passing through either no, or only one village en route between stages. I do love the countryside, but I think I prefer to pass through small villages, interact with the locals and poke my nose over the garden walls to see how they are living their lives.

My foot is still a bit swollen, but I think less than it was. I have a small blister on each heel, neither of which is giving me much bother, but they have been hanging around for a few days now. I think I may try a compeed on each of them tomorrow and hopefully see them gone in a few days.

Off in search of wifi now – there is none in the room, but hopefully I will be able to log on in the bar – and it would be rude to just sit there without a glass of wine, so I will just have to do that as well.

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Distance according to wikiloc (my own recording) 22.8km, mapmywalk 24.3km, Fitbit recorded steps 27,244
Accumulated elevation uphill 293 metres
Accumulated elevation downhill 217 metres
Total distance walked 281 km, average 25.5 km per day

Today’s spend – Coffee and pastry 2.20€, tinto de verano 1.20€, hostal 15€, shopping 2.20€, dinner and drinks 5.80€. Total 26.40€
Eleven days total spend 278.30€

About magwood

Trepidatious Traveller - camino blog is about preparing for and walking the Camino de Santiago. Many future pilgrims have found the blog useful and inspiring, and many who have no plans to walk the camino have simply enjoyed the dialogue http://www.magwood.me
This entry was posted in Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Camino Mozarabe and tagged , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

21 Responses to Camino Mozárabe- day 11 – Cerro Muriano to Villaharta 22.8 km

  1. Janice Tyler says:

    Beautiful flower photos Maggie today. I chose option 2 for tomorrow before I read on and found you had chosen option 3 ! Looks a lovely little hostal.

    Liked by 1 person

  2. Looking at all the pictures and I can smell the fresh air and dry earth. Another good day with or without blisters. Hope they behave. ❤

    Liked by 1 person

  3. David Wolfe says:

    Good luck for tomorrow

    Like

  4. I hope your blisters stay under control. Last year I had 2 – one of which behaved and went away, and the other that became a problem. It was a problem only for a few days, but that was enough to warn me of the potential.

    Liked by 1 person

  5. You deserve that glass of wine. Tomorrow sounds like a toughie. Surely you can change your mind and go for option 2 if you get tired or your foot needs a rest? Look forward to finding out. All the best.

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    • magwood says:

      Made it Nancy, I am resistant to any form of transport because I remember the feeling of wonder at the end of my first camino when I realised that the bus back from Finisterre was my first time on wheels for five weeks. It’s not often that we can say that, unless we have been ill in bed for a while.

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  6. Pat and John says:

    Much respect Maggie, good luck with your long day tomorrow. So enjoying your blogs as once again they have become part of our day to day life and are so enjoyable and informative. The photos are fab too !!!
    Pat and John xx

    Liked by 1 person

  7. Katherine Paterson says:

    We have just come home from a loud but great night at the Balcon, Maggie. Loved the flowers from today, and will be thinking about you tomorrow. Take your host´s phone number, just in case!

    Liked by 1 person

    • magwood says:

      Free soul band Katherine’s? I really enjoyed them last time – danced the night away. Not much energy for dancing right now though! Glad you had fun and thanks for your support.

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  8. Your daily posts have kept me going these last ten days as I wait to set off to Spain for my own 2015 Camino! Now the day has come: I leave tonight for Madrid and Oviedo, for some sightseeing before setting off walking. My plans are made: no days more than 21 Kms for me! I have ditched a cheap solar charger purchased recently online; it didn’t seem to build up any charge at all. Buyer beware! I will be visiting Las Medulas, near Ponferrada, as described in mspath blog, and then walking from Villafranca where I had to stop last year with tendonitis. Fingers crossed!

    Liked by 1 person

  9. Tony Rice says:

    I was wrong the other day. Your way better than a National Geographic. I’m enjoying every kilometer of your journey.

    Happy Trails Maggie

    Liked by 1 person

  10. Keith Rocks says:

    Good luck for the long walk tomorrow Maggie

    Liked by 1 person

  11. Carel says:

    Good luck today. If you make this long stage, you make it to Santiago.

    Liked by 1 person

  12. mary lynch says:

    you are some woman for one woman Maggie, choosing option 3. Hope all goes to plan and the blister behaves. Love the photos as ever and the hostel sounds wonderful. Glad you are getting to meet some good people along the route. Buen Camino

    Liked by 1 person

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