Camino Mozárabe – day 17 – Campanario to Medellín 39.5 km

Having discoverd that the sheets on the bed I had chosen to sleep in last night did not look as though they had been washed since the last inhabitant, I was none too comfortable when I tried the alternative bed, although the sheets looked a bit fresher. I had been asleep for a couple of hours when two or more people entered the building and decided to have a very loud conversation in a very eccho-y hallway immediately outside my door. After suffering the incredible noise for a while I actually shouted at them to shut up but they either didn’t hear above their racket or they chose to ignore me. Sleep didn’t come easily after that. But I hope I got my revenge when leaving at 07:30 I made sure to slam all doors very loudly – I doubt it had the desired effect, but it gave me some pleasure.

The walk started on the road, but only briefly – we were soon directed onto country tracks, smooth and sandy, weaving between a few farm buildings before becoming more remove and meandering between scrubby land only suitable for sheep (of which there were plenty) and some cereal crops. The land was gently undulating with very little rise and fall – the only hill on the horizon was ahead of us with a village clinging to the side and crowned with a castle. Of course we were eventually directed through this village and up and up to the very top before decending the other side.

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The landscape was very different from previous days, with hardly a tree in sight – very stoney ground with much of it put over to grazing for sheep. The day started and continued to be overcast – not at all cold, and for the most part with a fresh breeze. Perfect walking conditions.

We followed a railway line for a while and the path changed from smooth to stoney – the most uncomfortable sort with ruts from the tractor wheels and pointy stones poking up to dig into the soles of my feet. The most significant aspect of today’s journey was the huge expanse of land, where I could see for miles and miles to an enormous horizon.

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The journey was broken up with three towns today – Magacela at 10 km, La Haba at 20 km and Don Benito at 30 km. the decision was made at this point to carry on and walk to Medellín which was a further 9 km. This last section was walked on the road for around 4 km – part of it with a very narrow (to almost non existent) shoulder, but was thankfully diverted onto a agricultural track for the rest of the stage.

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So it was a very long day, verging on 40 km (and didn’t my feet know all about it!). But Medellín was the prize – a very pretty town with a huge castle and some beautiful historic buildings. And the main reason that we ploughed on was to stay at a private albergue ‘Casa particular de Micaela Diaz’ tell 924 822 816 / 628 933 149. To stay in this beautiful house is most definitely worth the extra effort of a few km’s. The house is situated towards the far side of this charming town and is packed with beautiful antique furniture, with a large bathroom (with power shower), and a lovely garden to sit in. A real treat at 12€ including breakfast.

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We have shopped in the supermarket for a shared salad and a bottle of wine, and all is well with the world.

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Distance according to wikiloc (my own recording) 39.5 km, mapmywalk 42.18 km, Fitbit recorded steps 51,081
Accumulated elevation uphill 350 metres
Accumulated elevation downhill 488 metres
Total distance walked 456.90 km, average 26.9 km per day

Today’s spend – albergue 12€, drinks 8.5€, shopping for supper and supplies 5€. Spend for the day 25.5€
Seventeen days total spend 438.48€

About magwood

Trepidatious Traveller - camino blog is about preparing for and walking the Camino de Santiago. Many future pilgrims have found the blog useful and inspiring, and many who have no plans to walk the camino have simply enjoyed the dialogue http://www.magwood.me
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7 Responses to Camino Mozárabe – day 17 – Campanario to Medellín 39.5 km

  1. Glenys Gallagher says:

    I so look forward to your posts each evening ..photographs are fabulous ..taking me to a Spain I never would have known

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  2. kristina wilkening says:

    wow. crazy long day. so, do they do anything with those poppies in the fields…or are they just wild flowers? haven’t responded to a lot of your blog posts….but definitely enjoying every word and picture you have posted. thanks for keeping us in the loop!! keep having fun and smiling. give your feet a good soak tonight.

    Liked by 1 person

  3. AJ says:

    The route must have changed: my records say 24km to Don Benito where I spent the night in Hostal Galicia.

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  4. My feet are complaining. Forty Kilometers in one day. You are iron woman!
    Love the red poppies and all the flowers. Your pictures continue to show what and where you are and have been. More power to you, Maggie. ❤

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  5. mary lynch says:

    Well done Maggie on another long day. Trepidatious is a very appropiate name for you.
    Doing a blog everyday is also wonderfully generous of you and many thanks for it. I look forward to opening it every day. Beautiful photos today, everybody loves poppies don’t they?
    Buen Camino

    Liked by 1 person

  6. Carel says:

    Where do you get the energy to write after such long days on the Camino?

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  7. Keith Rocks says:

    A long day for you both. Lovely pics

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