Camino Mozárabe (Via de la Plata) – day 34 – Montamarta to Granja de Moreruela 24.6 km

Well, the decision was made – not easily – but I decided to walk the route I would have taken without any outside influence, and said goodbye to a rather dejected looking Olivier not long after 06:00. I hope we will catch up further along the line, but it is impossible to say.


I was away well before 07:00 and the first part of the walk was quite pleasant. There is a big body of water here, which I was in sight of from time to time, but the walking was on wide tracks which became less pleasant as the walk progressed (with a few brief delightful stretches) as I criss-crossed construction areas, with lots of walking on compacted gravel roads which is quite hard on the feet.


There were times during the walk when I considered that I might have made a mistake by not walking with Olivier, as walking on a firm road surface would have been easier. But there were compensations like sitting on a rock overlooking the lake, and walking past the ruins of a castle.


There were two very confusing areas today, both of which had arrows going both to the left and the right. It must have been my lucky day because I seem to have made the right choice on both occasions (both times taking the right-hand option), whereas other pilgrims didn’t do so well.


I saw one of the young women about a quarter way through the the walk (and I guess she then opted left) and thereafter I didn’t see a soul. This is always a bit disconcerting, especially when I know there are fast walkers (Paul) behind me and I expect to be overtaken. But the signage was good around the construction area so I felt quite secure.

I stopped at a bar for a cold drink in the village of Riego del Camino (Pepe’s). I can only advise anyone else to avoid the place. It was most unwelcoming and dingy and I couldn’t bring myself to make use of the toilet facilities, they were so disgusting. I couldn’t wait to get out.

The last section was a real trudge along a track that was being compacted, so that I had to dodge between lorries and a steam roller, and then along an unmade service road by the side of the highway, with a steep camber from the middle towards both sides (a big strain on the ankles) with stones the size of ping-pong balls. I was glad to reach Granja and find myself the first pilgrim to arrive at the Albergue at just after noon. A couple of older German guys (who I haven’t seen before) arrived some time later, and speedy Paul not for another hour and a half, followed by F/C Diane and the new Dutch couple who I met for the first time in Zamora.


So we are seven at the moment in a room with eight places. There is a locked room upstairs, so I guess if necessary that will be unlocked to reveal the other 12 places my guide tells me are here. Lovely showers, not any outdoor space and no kitchen. 5€.

It has been very hot today and due to heat up even more over the next couple of days – more early starts are on the cards.

Distance according to Wikiloc – 24.6 km
Accumulated elevation uphill 151 metres
Accumulated elevation downhill 128 metres
Total distance walked 931.7 km, average 27.4 km per day

About magwood

Trepidatious Traveller - camino blog is about preparing for and walking the Camino de Santiago. Many future pilgrims have found the blog useful and inspiring, and many who have no plans to walk the camino have simply enjoyed the dialogue
This entry was posted in Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Camino Mozarabe, Via de la Plata and tagged , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

11 Responses to Camino Mozárabe (Via de la Plata) – day 34 – Montamarta to Granja de Moreruela 24.6 km

  1. Beautiful!!! Good evening


  2. Frances says:

    I am sure you made the right decision Maggie to follow your own route. You are doing brilliantly. I do follow you every day. We will miss you when you reach your destination! xx


  3. janpow123 says:

    What a lovely varied selection of photos again today, a bit of everything there. Hope you have a good evening and sleep.


  4. mary lynch says:

    Glad you got a hot shower today Maggie. Your poor feet with all the stony roads. I feel for you. It must be nice to have 25kms. under your belt before mid-day, well done. Hope you find somewhere to have a nice dinner and perhaps a small glass of Cava, you deserve it. Buen camino.


  5. Maggie Gardner says:

    The tougher terrain usually offers the better views. Good for you deciding to make a break for it!
    Nice to be first there you can choose the best bed hopefully? You are one hell of a gal Maggie!! xx


  6. Bonnie says:

    Thoroughly enjoying your camino! Loving the poppies. Live in the moment, take care.


  7. Leona says:

    Love your picture of the castle ruins with the poppies in the foreground! Smart woman to head out so early to avoid the heat, and a warm shower to top it all. Buen Camino.


  8. Gorgeous photos. Thank you. You have lucky instincts. Not too far to go now. Wow. ❤


  9. Keith Rocks says:

    I shall be avoiding Pepe’s!


  10. Irish Sue says:

    I just love your castle with poppies photo Maggie. Keep up the good spirits and keep trusting your instincts. I think your pilgrim spirit is well and truly with you by now so just keep following your heart. Can’t wait to see you when you get back. Hug from me,
    Sue x


  11. Irish Sue says:

    By the way… Oscar says Hola Mi admirable Amiga!


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