Camino Mozárabe (Via de la Plata) – day 33 – Zamora to Montamarta 21 km

Wow! I got that over quickly – a cold shower. There have been several times when my travelling companions have reported only cold water, but I have always found someone to sort it out before I commit myself, but today there is no-one to sort it and so it just had to be done. At least I did it without making too much noise – the dutch woman who followed me was screaming like a baby.


I took a short stage today which involved lots of very straight tracks through cereal crops without many photo stops.


It is decision time for me. My favourite German guys walked on a stage further today. Olivier the French guy wants me to walk with him tomorrow, taking a short cut and cutting out a stage which means we will catch up with Tobi and Michael tomorrow (in Tábara). But that will probably mean losing Paul. I’m not sure about missing a stage, and I am not sure how important it should be who I walk with. Paul is very easy company but he has a preference for shorter stages so I will probably part from him somewhere along the line anyway. Olivier can be very annoying and loves to spend his time winding me up, but we do have a bit of a laugh when we can understand what we are saying to eachother (having to speak in Spanish, and his is no better than mine). Decisions, decisions! I shall have to make my mind up in the next few hours.


The Albergue here is quite pleasant (other than the cold shower) with 20 places. For the first time I think there are an even number of women to men. There is a dutch couple, a French-Canadian woman, two younger women (possibly another FC and I think a Dane). Paul, Olivier and spanish Pepe who is going home tomorrow because he has blister problems (haven’t we all?), and possibly a couple more who I haven’t yet seen (but who turn out to be the Italians I have seen over the last couple of days).

I had an interesting email from the lovely hospitalera at Salamanca this morning telling me that she had been looking at statistics for 2015 and thus far at her Albergue men outnumbered women 3 to 1. I also had a message from Ingrid, who follows the blog, saying that she will be working as hospitalera for two weeks at Zamora where I stayed last night. Voluntary hospitaleros receive a weekend of training and then are sent to an Albergue that suits their preferences for two weeks. Many pilgrims consider this a way to give back to the camino.

We have been told by the hospitalero here that there is a lot of water on the track tomorrow and we need to keep on the road to avoid wading thigh deep.

I have just arrived at the bar so that I can use the wifi to send this post (not so that I can have a drink – that is just something I have to do in order to keep my blog up to date!) There are thirteen men in here, mostly playing cards, and when I entered 26 eyes turned in my direction to appraise the stranger. I ordered a ‘tinto de verano’ – an easy drink of red wine topped up with lemonade. However the barman began with the lemonade which filled the half pint glass to one third, and then proceeded to top it up to the brim with red wine, ignoring my protestations to stop (maybe I didn’t protest loud enough). I hope you can appreciate the effort I go to each day to get this blog to you.

Oh, and by the way, today my viewing number tripped over 200,000. Thanks so much for sharing my journey and for all the very lovely comments I receive. I don’t get the time to answer them all but I certainly read every one with great pleasure.

Distance according to Wikiloc – 21 km
Accumulated elevation uphill 167 metres
Accumulated elevation downhill 128 metres
Total distance walked 907.1 km, average 27.5 km per day

About magwood

Trepidatious Traveller - camino blog is about preparing for and walking the Camino de Santiago. Many future pilgrims have found the blog useful and inspiring, and many who have no plans to walk the camino have simply enjoyed the dialogue
This entry was posted in Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Camino Mozarabe, Via de la Plata and tagged , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

18 Responses to Camino Mozárabe (Via de la Plata) – day 33 – Zamora to Montamarta 21 km

  1. Pat & John says:

    Cold showers brrrr….horrid
    Large , strong tinto de verano…. mmmm.
    Hope you have reached a decision regarding your walking companions.

    Liked by 1 person

  2. Decisions, decisions but not about the cold shower. Brrrr.

    Liked by 1 person

  3. janpow123 says:

    A lovely cheery post again – haha… I’m sure that we all appreciate the sacrifice you make in getting your postings to us. The compulsory alcoholic beverage in the bar set aside, I am always truly astounded how you can get up so early, walk ’til your feet are sore, then search for your bed for the night, take cold showers, search for food etc…etc…and then you sit down willingly and write to us….cheerfully…word perfect, and EVERY day! Yes, I am astounded, but SO pleased that you do! Buen Camino!

    Liked by 1 person

  4. mary lynch says:

    Maggie I agree with you cold showers are the pits. However strong Tinto de Verano can be just what the doctor ordered afterwards! Loved the photo of the storks, if you write a book you could put that on the front cover. You don’t sound as tired as you did last night I’m very pleased to see.
    I was a bit concerned about you yesterday. Hope you make the right decision for you and buen camino

    Liked by 1 person

  5. Donal says:

    Thank you for your time in sharing with us.


    Liked by 1 person

  6. Janice Tyler says:

    I love the bit about the strong tinto de verano – your dedication to the blog cause knows no bounds! Maybe you might go back one day as a voluntary hospitalera?? Decisions decisions – maybe you’ll go alone and meet some others??

    Liked by 1 person

  7. Sue Lyons says:

    I was introduced to your blog by Janice Tyler and I must say I really look forward to your daily posting, you make each day come alive with your writing and photos, thanks so much for sharing your experiences…

    Liked by 1 person

  8. I’m not surprised you have so many views; your writing is delightful. Thanks for sharing.

    Liked by 1 person

  9. ingridfolkers says:

    Hmm, Maggie… cold shower in Zamora or Montamarta?.. I remember being told that had a bit of a problem with the heater last fall, something that was fixed….ah well, I will find out soon enough. Maybe a cold shower in hot July will be welcome. What do you call a cerveca with lemonade… that is more my liking. Ultreia!

    Liked by 1 person

    • magwood says:

      Definitely not Zamora Ingrid – everything was perfection there. In Montamarta apparently one has to give the water tank enough time to heat up after the last person has used it.


  10. Maggie Gardner says:

    Good for the ego having the men “fight over” you. xx

    Liked by 2 people

  11. alan says:

    congrats on the blog and great fotos,have you built in any rest days or do the shorter stages work best for you.

    Liked by 1 person

    • magwood says:

      I prefer the shorter stages to days off Alan. Not taken a day off in three caminos, but hoping for a sunny day on the beach in Finisterre!


  12. Keep it up my strong lady…loving reading your posts each morning and really appreciate all you have to do to keep us in the loop. The photos are great and really enjoy hearing about all the folks you’re running into along the trail. Best of luck with your decision; no wrong ones possible…

    Liked by 1 person

  13. Keith Rocks says:

    Sorry I missed this one yesterday Maggie. Your blog is very good. And I love your pics.

    Liked by 1 person

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