Camino Mozárabe (Via de la Plata) – day 36 – Tábara to Santa Croya de Tera 22.4 km

The scene of my successful attempt at finding wifi yesterday took place in restaurant/bar El Roble. Half way through my stay the landlady came over and put her phone in my hand, so that I could speak to some English speaking enquirers. As a prize for sorting out their reservation she refused payment for my wine – so now I am a paid translator!

By the time I returned to the Albergue there had arrived a total of six cyclists, all Italian I think, and a young German lad on foot. Also joining us were Alke and Patrick and a spanish guy who was there when we arrived, making the man:woman ratio 12:2. So we were fourteen for dinner, which consisted of noodle soup, a meat based paella and fruit, followed up with fire water. It was all very pleasant and after dinner José the hospitalero of this donativo Albergue handed around a box from which each of us took a lucky dip of a sentiment written on a card – mine is shown below. Very charming. And then we were treated to a recital on the spanish guitar by the spanish guy Tomas, which rounded off the night perfectly.


We were all instructed not to set alarms, but that we would be awoken at 06.30 with music and breakfast would be at 07:00. There was a very pleasant atmosphere, even with all the cyclists, who can be a bit over-bearing – but not in this instance.

I set off around 07:00, first of all on a very quiet country road and then once again onto a series wide gravel tracks. There were some wind turbines high above and I waited for the sun to be directly behind one of the blades to take a photo for my great friend Lyn who works in the industry.


A couple of the cyclists passed me with a cheery ‘buen camino’; but it did make me smile when the next couple passed and almost immediately came to a stop when a steep hill presented itself. I was soon walking back past them, and just to rub salt in the wound I stopped at the top of the hill to look down on them and take a photo.


We are seeing a lot of adobe buildings, some still standing and in use, and others like this ruin by the side of the track today. I love the look and texture of these structures – amazing how a bit of mud mixed with stones and straw can stand the test of time.


It was a fairly unremarkable day, albeit with some pretty flowers lining the path at times.


I had it in mind to walk around 35 km today, but when there was mention of a very lovely Albergue with wifi, dinner, pretty garden and clean sheets at 22 km, I was instantly lured in and stopped off at this point without a second thought. The day had promised great heat, but shortly after I stopped walking a brisk breeze and cloudy skies developed – possibly an ideal day to walk a longer distance. But hey, I’m here, and was the first to shower in a freshly cleaned cubicle and have been charmed by the lovely hospitalera sisters here at ‘Casa Anita’. The forecast is for cooler weather over the next few days so I can catch up on lost time along the line.


An update on the shortcut dilemma – I met today with a French guy called Jean-Marc, who also took the shortcut along the highway yesterday. He said he hated it, it was very dangerous and it was a big mistake. So now I am even more pleased that I didn’t take this route.

So far in this Albergue are Paul and me, the German brothers we have seen on and off for a few days (whom I have christened the ‘chuckle brothers’), another German guy (all in their sixties I imagine), a German woman, another middle-aged couple who are new to me and not very communicative and the lovely Alke and Patrick.

I have bought supplies including cava and have swapped some of my alcohol for Paul’s orange juice so that we have enjoyed a couple of Buck’s Fizzes and am now sitting in the garden writing this post. The costs here are 12€ for the bed and 10€ for the menu del dia, so a bit of a budget buster, but worth every centimo!

Distance according to Wikiloc – 22.4 km
Accumulated elevation uphill 238 metres
Accumulated elevation downhill 273 metres
Total distance walked 982 km, average 27.3 km per day

About magwood

Trepidatious Traveller - camino blog is about preparing for and walking the Camino de Santiago. Many future pilgrims have found the blog useful and inspiring, and many who have no plans to walk the camino have simply enjoyed the dialogue
This entry was posted in Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Camino Mozarabe, Camino Sanabrés, Via de la Plata and tagged , , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

11 Responses to Camino Mozárabe (Via de la Plata) – day 36 – Tábara to Santa Croya de Tera 22.4 km

  1. janpow123 says:

    Great posting Maggie…everything worked out well from start to finish today it seemed! Good idea, it’s bucks fizz with our dinner this evening (my other half will think I’ve gone mad) but tuff!😉


  2. Maggie Gardner says:

    It must be wonderful meeting people like Jose who add the extra touches to make your stay memorable. Amazing photography as always!


  3. mary lynch says:

    Maggie so pleased you didn’t take the shortcut the other day. It sounds horrendous. Beautiful looking albergue tonight. Hope the dinner is as nice as the dorm. looks. Fantastic photo of the wind turbines, I love them also, so graceful. Enjoy the Bucks Fizz you deserve it. Buen Camino.


  4. martinandbethjackson says:

    Passing the 1000 kms tomorrow/today. Well done dear girl, well done.


  5. Almost at 1,000 km. Woo hoo. You’re amazing as are your photographs. Thank you for sharing. ❤


  6. ingridfolkers says:

    Maggie, you are making it very enticing for me to walk out of Zamora and follow in your footsteps. Really enjoying your posts and pics. Ultreia


    • magwood says:

      Hope I havent ‘bigged it up’ too much. I think I have been honest. But I am enjoying it a lot. I spoke to a hospitalero today who said that right now is the time that most French people walk so that is why there have been so many. It also seems to be the time that least women walk – I am missing female company.
      In response to your previous comment the cold shower was definitely not in Zamora. The hospitalero in Montamarta explained that the boiler is very small and it needs time to reheat after the previous shower. Hope you are luckier than me! Buen camino.

      Liked by 1 person

  7. Keith Rocks says:

    Another good day Maggie. Well done


  8. Jane says:

    I cant believe you have been walking 36 days now, sorry not been following you- lots going on- very well done and enjoy your bucks fizz xx


  9. lynharrison4wind says:

    Indeed, a wonderfully creative photo of a wind turbine and the first like it I’ve ever seen (which given the thousands I’ve dealt with is not saying so little). The combination of solar and wind makes tit a commercial prospect. A way of adding to your sponsorship income? When you have a good internet connection send me the original and I’ll work on getting it some publicity. Meantime, I’m worried about the state of your boots, not to mention socks. Anything I can do to get new footwear sent to an Albergue up ahead? I do have the joys of super fast broadband 24/7 so might be easier if I tackled the job. Loving your daily stories and superbly evocative prose, which I read as my goodnight story every day. I second Sandie: looking lean! As to men splashing around in bathrooms a few posts back, if only it was plain water they sprinkled about so liberally …..
    We have cava on cool for when you pass the 1000 km milestone (kilometrestone). Perhaps it’s happening as I write? Huge respect and hugs.


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