Sorry folks for the delay of my post for my final stage. I spent my blogging time soaking up the sun on the beach…it seemed the right thing to do.
I left the bustling albergue yesterday well before 07:00 and set off with one of the bag rustling light shining ladies who now seemed perfectly acceptable after my night’s experience amongst many snoring, bed rattling, tossers (as in tossing and turning, but take it any way you want). And at this point I have to say how very much I enjoyed your interaction with my previous post. I burst out laughing at your comments so regularly that I am sure those around me thought I needed some medical attention.
I was soon walking on my own and it was a fabulous stage. Beautiful tracks through moorland and woodland and delightful villages in bright but windy conditions. I took a couple of breaks in bars before glimpsing my first sight of the sea. Such a treat.
I passed through the large seaside town of Cee which looked very pretty in the older quarter and then took a very steep track which would eventually lead to the Finisterre peninsular.
When I finally saw from a distance the long stretch of beach that I would walk along, a few tears of elation escaped from my eyes. The previous time I had walked into Finisterre it was from Muxia and a different route, not one that was particularly memorable. But I remember well my Dutch walking companion from that time telling me how he had felt on reaching the beach (thanks Peter) and I have wanted to take that path ever since. It didn’t disappoint. I removed my boots, took a quick selfie for prosperity and walked straight to the water’s edge. It felt marvellous – I have tears in my eyes now as I write this account.
I sent a quick text to Olivier to tell him I had arrived and made my way along the 2 kms of beautiful white sand towards my destination of Finisterre. I don’t think many pilgrims walk along the sand, but take the easier path along the back of the beach. But I can recommend the experience – I loved every step of those two kilometres. And Olivier was there at the end to greet me. Perfect!
He had found a lovely albergue just outside the far end of the town (called Mar de Fora 10€, highly recommended) and after I had dumped my stuff we made our way to a beautiful bay of white sand to the north of the town. Not many people had found this slightly out of the way beach and we spent a couple of hours comparing our experiences over the last couple of weeks.
Later I went into the town to collect my Compostela for the Camino Fisterra before a fish supper and a hike to the lighthouse 3km uphill for the sunset. Poor Olivier was suffering a bit with his foot and couldn’t walk fast enough to reach the the top of the hill before the appointed hour of 22:06, and because I had stayed at his pace for too long before rushing on, I also missed the sunset. But it didn’t really matter – I already have the beautiful photos from my last visit and so I took a few snaps in the dwindling light and turned round to see how far Olivier had reached – and there he was slowly making his way to the top of the hill. So I turned back around again and I walked back up to the lighthouse with him. A perfect end to a fabulous day.