Stage 5 – La Granja de San Ildefonso to Zamarramala, 17 km

The albergue at San Ildefonso was very cosy and warm – I can’t recommend it highly enough. We had no idea until we rose and looked out of the window that it had been snowing during the night. It continued as we walked out – not a lot, and not for long, but wow, that was a chilly start to the day

We walked along the main road into Segovia, the 601. There was a comfortable sand path alongside the road all the way and it wasn’t unpleasant. In fact it was easy walking and we made a very good pace for the 12 km into the heart of the city. I had on most of my walking clothes – short sleeve merino wool T-shirt, arm warmers, fleece, runner’s tights, hiking skirt and rain jacket, plus my visor and small buff over my head and ears and long buff wrapped three times around my neck. I didn’t use my walking poles because I wanted to keep my hands less exposed, but they were still freezing inside my thin gloves, although my body was warm enough.

There was a very sharp wind that drove us on to walk at full speed.

We arrived into Segovia at around 10:30 and found a cafe right under the famous aqueduct for a warming drink and scrambled egg breakfast. It was delicious. We relaxed, ordered another drink and finally left over an hour later. We had established that there were two options to deposit our backpacks whilst we played tourist around this beautiful city. The bus station has lockers and a hostal offers a left luggage service. We later realised that this was the place that Eli, Carsten and Ralf had stayed the previous night. So we walked a few minutes from the aqueduct to The Hostel Duerme Vela (, tel 691 282 445 / 921 047 004) and left our packs for a fee of 3 euros each. It was a wonderful feeling to wander the city unencumbered.

The architecture is charming, the aqueduct is a sight to behold, the cathedral is magnificent and the castle could feature in a Disney film.

We met up with Eli in the castle and then ate a fabulous lunch in a restaurant Eli had experienced the previous night. Tuma serves excellent food with good vegan and vegetarian options. We all ordered a menu del dia for 11.50 euros and I brought half of my main course away for supper. Yum!

We went to collect our packs. Eli was very impressed with the accommodation and service and the place is very central, charge 18 euros for shared room. The receptionist recommended an alternative to the ‘official’ camino route for making out way the few kms to Zamarramala. And we were very glad we took her advice. The walk was delightful, through a park, alongside a river and finally a climb up to the village, with stunning views from the valley up to the castle and cathedral high above.

En route we passed by this tiny new-born donkey, so new that he hadn’t yet learned how to make his enormous ears stand on end.

I clocked 5 km from the hostal to The albergue at Zamarrramala, making a total of 17 kms of camino walking (and about 6 km of tourist walking around the city). The albergue was built in 2014, has 20 beds on the ground floor two gender-specific bathrooms, a good kitchen and reception area. There was lashings of hot water and we were able to control the radiators. Everything is shiny and new. I believe there are another 20 beds upstairs. A hospitalero is present from 14:30 to 21:00 and at other times it is possible to collect a key and register in the local shop and bars. No wifi. 8 euros. An excellent facility.

All in all I had a wonderful day. The icy wind eventually dropped mid afternoon and as we walked the last stage alongside the river I was finally able to divest myself of a few layers. We were even treated like celebrities when some American youths asked to take our photo and we impressed them with our combined camino accomplishments. Four pilgrims with 17 Camino’s already walked prior to this one!

We have parted company with Carsten and Ralf for the time being as they have walked on, but hopefully we will see them again along the way.

Today’s distance 17 km
Total distance 121 km
Average per day 24.2 km

About magwood

Trepidatious Traveller - camino blog is about preparing for and walking the Camino de Santiago. Many future pilgrims have found the blog useful and inspiring, and many who have no plans to walk the camino have simply enjoyed the dialogue
This entry was posted in Camino de Madrid, Camino de Santiago de Compostela and tagged , , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

18 Responses to Stage 5 – La Granja de San Ildefonso to Zamarramala, 17 km

  1. lynharrison4wind says:

    Wonderful photos of Segovia but it’s the donkey foal still learning to make his floppy ears stand up that has me captivated!

    Liked by 2 people

  2. I had been told how lovely Segovia is and your photos are proof of this. The architecture is stunning. You need some thermal gloves to keep your hands warm, if the cold spell is going to continue.


  3. Janice Tyler says:

    What wonderful photos today! I always love to hear about the warm and cosy places where you stop for refreshments and heat the acoommodation is like.


  4. Sally says:

    Fabulous photos. Looks stunning. €11.50 for menu del dia? You was robbed! 😀 x


  5. Your photos have inspired me to go to Segovia when I return to Spain. It looks gorgeous! So happy that you’re all doing so well and having such a buen Camino. Thank you for sharing it!


  6. Jo says:

    Fabulous to be following your trail again. Looks like the weather is quite changeable.
    As an aside, the train from Malaga to Madrid, did you need to book in advance (we are going Madrid to Malaga for the Mozarabe) and a rough price?


    • magwood says:

      Hi Jo. I did book the train in advance. It was around 50 euros and it seemed quite full. Probably best to book. I hope you love the Mozárabe as much as I did. Buen camino!


  7. OzAnnie says:

    Surely a beauty of a day! One you’ll commit to instant recall.
    Just think how awesome that architecture must have been at the time it was built !!!
    And today in 21st century people are still gobsmacked by it.
    And wonder of wonders in the same day ‘a newborn foal!’
    Amazing blog ! Love it


  8. Danielle says:

    Wow!! Beauiful photos of the srchitecture and your narrative is soooo interesting! Stay warm while you keep walking. Buen Camino me amiga!


  9. litespeedles says:

    Lovely to see you are blogging a Camino again. I was so inspired by your Del Norte one that I am continuing on that after the Chemin d’Arles which I’m now on. If you email a reply I will send you the URL, as I have made it private for now.


  10. Mary Lynch says:

    Enjoyed the description of your day in Segovia very much Maggie. Forgive me if I’m insulting you by stating the obvious, as one who has never done a Camino yet! Why don’t you put some socks over your gloves to keep your cold hands warm? Wonderful photos as ever. You will have to do a Brierley type book sometime Buen Camino xx.

    Liked by 1 person

    • magwood says:

      Impossible for you to insult me Mary. But you did remind me about the socks trick, which I used several times on the Mozárabe and totally forgot about when my hands were freezing last week. xx


  11. What a lovely day, and only a little 17km stroll!! And the tourist time! I couldn’t manage 1km let alone 17!
    Love the donklet, very special.


  12. Joan Gilford says:

    Hi Maggie! I always enjoy your blogs. Visited Segovia many years ago, so happy memories. Incidentally, your comment about the filmic quality of the Alcazaba is spot on. It appeared in Camelot as Sir Lancelot’s abode, and later in The Gun, a film about the Peninsular War,masquerading as a castle in A Coruna, I think.. Love the photos, they bring back many happy memories.


  13. Nadia Mitchell says:

    As of April 2019 the albergue in Zamarramala is closed to pilgrims. It is housing refugee migrants.


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