Stage 23 – Bodenaya to Campiello, 25.9 km

Last evening the albergue in Bodenaya lived up to its glowing reputation. There were many pilgrims resident that I had met over the last couple of days and the atmosphere was jolly. Hospitalero David was kindness personified and provided everything a flagging pilgrim might require. On arrival tea, coffee or juice, wine (yes please) or beer. Later we all gathered for an informative presentation about our options for the coming days and a decision was made about the time we would rise in the morning. A compromise of 06:15 was decided upon and we were assured we would be woken to the sound of music and the smell of coffee. We then tucked into a meal of pasta salad followed by potato soup and as much wine as we wanted. As promised all the washed clothes were left for collection in the morning. But what I expected to look like a jumble sale was presented more like the items for sale in a Benetton shop, every shirt, pair of pants, socks, bras and shorts neatly folded just so with meticulous care. And then there was breakfast before we set off on our next stage.

I was delighted that Marilyn walked the extra kms yesterday to catch up and she raised a cheer as she was one of the last to arrive. Many had already been turned away but I had reserved a bed for Marilyn in the hope that she would make it. There are two further albergues just 1 km down the road, so all pilgrims would have been catered for.

Today’s walk has been almost entirely along woodland tracks with a few stiff climbs involved. The mist this morning was beautiful and settled below the highest mountains and behind the lowest ones – the effect was magical. The going was a bit muddy and boggy at times but nothing too difficult to cope with.

I loved this ‘how green is my valley’ sign – I had been saying those words over and over to myself during the last week or so, so it was particularly apt. And wow, it is green, and it is beautiful and it is vast. Such a privilege to walk along this camino.

Although I have to admit that over the last couple of days I have felt quite weary. No specific problems – the feet are really behaving themselves and I have no particular aches or pains, just a general feeling of fatigue. I was expecting to feel stronger with every day, but not so for today and yesterday. Hopefully a shortish stage today will gear me up for the exertion tomorrow. Up and over another mountain pass with no facilities at all en route, so extra food and water have to be carried. But the weather looks promising so I am feeling very positive about it.

Many pilgrims have walked on to the village of Borres, 3 km along the road, but the albergue is reported to be not great. Whilst here in Campiello the albergue Casa Ricardo is absolutely top notch, and there is another in the village. There are bars and shops which Borres doesn’t have. So it was a toss up between a 3 km shorter walk on a long and hard day and poor conditions, versus comfort and facilities. This afternoon I am definitely thinking I have made the right choice, but who knows what I might think tomorrow.

At least the weather is looking promising. There are two options tomorrow – one to go up and over (preferred in good weather), the other to walk into the valley and back up the other side (the winter route with a stop halfway), both with the same end point.

But back to Casa Ricardo, there is a beautiful kitchen with full hob, coffee machine and marble topped tables, washer and dryer, excellent large separate shower facilities each with two showers, two loos and two basins and the dormitory has 26 places in very sturdy wooden bunks, each with its own little shelf and power point. These guys have put a great deal of thought into providing what a tired pilgrim really needs and have come up trumps. Oh, and don’t forget the large sunny courtyard with an abundance of tables and chairs and a shop and bar across the road where we can buy food and drink. Absolutely first class. 10 euros, wifi but not very strong.

Today’s distance 25.9 km
Accumulated uphill elevation 474 m
Accumulated downhill elevation 502 m
Total distance 620.3 km
Average per day 27 km

About magwood

Trepidatious Traveller - camino blog is about preparing for and walking the Camino de Santiago. Many future pilgrims have found the blog useful and inspiring, and many who have no plans to walk the camino have simply enjoyed the dialogue
This entry was posted in Camino de Madrid, Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Camino del Salvador, Camino Primitivo and tagged , , , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

17 Responses to Stage 23 – Bodenaya to Campiello, 25.9 km

  1. rba says:

    Your postings are GREAT and thank you! I stayed in Bodenaya in September of 2015 and agree with your comments, as I received the exact same treatment as you described. I also look forward every day to your postings and pics, and I am trying to decide what my next Camino will be this coming September,

    Buen Camino,


  2. Amanda de Klerk says:

    Hi Maggie, you are such a strong walker…Hope you energy returns and that a good nights sleep will restore the body and mind. And wow, this Camino seems to be a toughie!! All the best, loving your blog and photos. amanda


  3. One of your best posts ever! Just beautiful! Those albergues look wonderful, putting most I’ve experienced to shame. You’ve really been traveling, long distances and hefty ups and downs. I’d say you’ve made the right choice to stop sooner. I look forward to tomorrow’s post.


  4. JoAl says:

    620k so far Maggie,time for a rest day with your feet up. Great post and pics. Thanks for sharing.x


  5. Janice Tyler says:

    A good rest should sort you out and what a lovely place to stay. By the way, were you saying ‘how green is my valley’ in a Welsh accent as you walked?


  6. Maybe a short day is what you need. I found that being alone (losing the group) for a night refreshed me. Then after two days I caught up with them again – that cheer when you finally trudge in the door is very satisfying!


  7. pmschlaate says:

    Hola Maggi
    Diariamente espero tu informe de tu camino. Me alegro tus fotos y textos. Tienes ojo clínico por hacer buenas fotos. Deseo que tengas un camino impresionante y libre de accidentes .
    Buen Camino
    Peter el suizo (VdP 2015)


  8. Take care Maggie and listen to your body. Buen camino. Mel


  9. Nadine says:

    Oh it was such a joy to see a photo of you and David at Bodenaya- it brought back so many memories! Good luck if you walk the Hospitales route- I had foggy, misty weather that day (but still did Hospitales)… it was very atmospheric but I had none of the outstanding views. A reason to go back!


    • magwood says:

      We are so lucky with the weather Nadine – it has been better than we could have expected all the way. It starts to hot up tomorrow, so I may well be complaining about the heat soon!


  10. Mary Lynch says:

    What a wonderful albuergue Maggie. Sorry you are feeling a little tired. Hope you get over it, whatever it is. This sounds like a wonderful Camino and I’m loving the photos and the greenery Much love and buen camino xx


  11. Dave says:

    That albergue looks like pure pampered luxury compared to the Borres one, but Borres did have spectacular views from the bed!


  12. thanks for the update 🙂 I’m so enjoying reading your blogs. Although I’ll be walking a different route in September, it’s great to read about places along the route you’re walking. The photos are great and gives one an insight into places we would never otherwise see. Buen Camino. I hope I am diligent as you when I walk 😉


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