Camino Mozárabe stage 14 – Baena to Castro del Rio 21 km

Today’s distance 21 km
Elevation gain 122 m
Elevation loss 335 m
Total distance from Almería 341.5 km

There was another misty start to the day and the air felt damp. We stop at a cafe for breakfast but they haven’t yet received their bread delivery so tostada con tomate is off the menu.

We leave town on a busy road with no shoulder and after about 1.5 km we turn onto a dirt track through more olive groves. It’s a rough stone track and not very comfortable to walk on and at 7 km we return to a very quiet asphalt road, and there we stayed until reaching our destination, so 14 km straight road walking.

I am now covering ground that I have already walked in 2015. Baena is where the Mozárabe routes from Almeria and Málaga meet. A few landmarks seem familiar, but I don’t recall such a long walk on the road.

This Camino is becoming very different from how I expected. When I walked from Málaga in 2015 we saw only three other pilgrims one day in all eighteen days we were walking between Málaga and Merida. Whereas now we are in a bubble of more than 15 on each stage. Some are staying in private accommodation which lightens the load on the albergues, but at tomorrow’s stage end there are no beds available in the two hostels in town and there isn’t an albergue. I’m not quite sure how to handle that problem, but I have a plan that I may put into action. And then at the end of the following stage to Córdoba we run into mayday weekend and there are virtually no beds available in the city, although I luckily managed to reserve three spaces in a hostel.

It’s a little disappointing that there are more people than beds and it’s frustrating to have to worry about where we might sleep

After Córdoba there are six further stages until I take a right turn and leave the Mozárabe, and I am sure I won’t see many other pilgrims on that route.

While Nina and I are taking a five minute break under the shade of a tree I look up and see a huge group of pilgrims walking towards us. Oh no! Not more to share the albergues with. They tripped spritely past us and I saw that they were all just carrying dolly day bags, and I assumed they were just day walkers. But no, when I caught up with a couple and engaged in conversation I learned that they were a group of nine ‘posh pilgrims’ probably rather like those taking part in the recent TV series, being ferried in a shiny mini-bus and then walking into the next town, picked up and taken somewhere luxurious to spend the night. They were nine women of various ages from California and were accompanied by THREE guides. The two who I spoke to were very pleasant and it’s good that the local economy can benefit from the camino phenomenon – they must be contributing a lot more per head than I do!

I did mention to the ladies (as all of their three guides should have done) that rather than spreading themselves right across the road and dividing to left and right when vehicles came into sight, they should actually all be walking on the left, towards oncoming traffic. If there are people on both sides of the road it’s a nightmare for drivers to have to weave around them. They took my words in good stead and immediately told the rest of their party to follow the rules.

We actually had a brief break from the olive trees today when we passed some lush green crop fields, but they were back soon enough. I can’t normally imagine being bored with olive trees, but after a week or so it’s good to get a different view.

The albergue tonight is rather basic, with twelve places over six bunks. I think there are eight of us here. There are no kitchen facilities whatsoever although there is a nice room where you can eat any food that you have found elsewhere. The bathroom leaves something to be desired! It is necessary to register with the Policia local situated in the Ayuntamiento. I have a note that the cost is 5 euros, but wasn’t asked for any money and there is no donation box at the albergue.

I have been invited to attend the opening of an exhibition taking place in the town, organised by Michel Cerdan who is very involved with the Camino Mozárabe. I took a peak earlier. It is a collection of stones picked up by pilgrims along the camino and they are hung from threads at the corresponding distance and height that they were found. I contributed a tiny shiny stone that took my fancy yesterday, but it looks rather underwhelming amongst the much bigger rocks already hanging. But every little helps, so they say!


About magwood

Trepidatious Traveller - camino blog is about preparing for and walking the Camino de Santiago. Many future pilgrims have found the blog useful and inspiring, and many who have no plans to walk the camino have simply enjoyed the dialogue
This entry was posted in Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Camino Mozárabe from Almeria and tagged , , , , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

8 Responses to Camino Mozárabe stage 14 – Baena to Castro del Rio 21 km

  1. Alan says:

    Ha an amusing shadow giant happy to see some pilgrims. Nice text and pics Maggie.x


  2. Sally says:

    Love the Grim Reaper photo x


  3. M3 Mary says:

    Yet another dry Maggie. I’m very happy for you. The shortage of beds is a bit worrying but I’m sure the Camino will provide. Much love and buen camino xx


  4. Marie says:

    Hi Maggie, I have walked the Camino Frances in 2014 and enjoyed the experience. I’m planning to go back for sure, but I don’t know when. Your blog and photos of your Caminos are very interesting and motivating. Please add me to your list so that I can “feel” the Camino again until I am able to go back. Thank you for sharing with all of the pilgrims around the world.

    Marie from Canada


    • magwood says:

      Hi Marie, thanks for your comment, but I can’t add you to the list. You have to actively follow the blog by clicking on the ‘follow’ button at the top of the right side bar.


  5. JO KENNEDY says:

    I remember that Albergue, it was sooooo hot when we were there last year, mind you it was the middle of June and luckily we were only 3 of us so the lack of bathroom facilities didnt affect us too much. I remember lots of tarmac walking that day too!!


I would love some feedback - tell me what you think.....

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.