Camino Primitivo, O Cádavo to Lugo 32 km

Last night in the dorm was atrocious – nine people, eight men, very close and smelly, lots and lots of snoring. I gave up trying to sleep at 1 am and put in earplugs and listened to the radio for an hour or so, but when I tried to sleep again it was no better.

And then this morning at 05:30 this selfish, thoughtless, ignorant group of men (who had disturbed my peace at the beginning of yesterday’s walk) went about noisily packing up, rustling plastic bags and flashing their headlights – one even talking to himself. This went on for at least half an hour before they left the room. Great I thought, we can at least have an hour’s sleep. But no, they proceeded to talk in their loudest of loud voices in the kitchen, which reverberated all around the albergue. I never want to be in the same space as them again!

There is sun today – yippee!! It is cool and fresh with a blue sky and still air.

My knee was particularly uncomfortable after yesterday‘s stage, which was the longest I’ve walked for some days, and it takes me a couple of kms to get moving smoothly.

After a km or so on a quiet road we have a very comfortable wide sandy track through a pine forest with lots of beautiful yellow broom lining the way.

I heard my first cuckoo of this camino. And I saw another stork in a field, only the second on this trip.

There are a few kilometres on country lanes before reaching Castroverde at 8.25 km and then it alternates back and forth between track and road.

I pass new plantings for a eucalyptus plantation, currently saplings only about 5 feet tall, but in no time at all they will rise to a great height to obscure all the views and, from what I am told, will take all the nourishment from the soil without putting anything back

This beautiful chap’s legs are so long that he has to bend them in order to nibble the grass.
The friendliest dogs on the camino

I’m surprised to come across a delightful stone built albergue called Puciña Muñiz with a bar/cafe in a tiny village 15 km from O Cadavo – half way point for me. My knee is already making walking painful and a few kms further on I am pleased to see that an enterprising man has set up a donativo melon station in a field at the side of the road. He is offering melon to all who wish to stop – and there are plenty!

There is probably more road than track during the last third of this stage, most of which was easy and fine. Sadly my right knee, and increasingly my left foot continued to give increasing pain and I limped slowly into the beautiful walled city of Lugo.

I had decided en route to stay an extra night in Lugo to give myself a rest. I’m staying at Hostel Cross not far from the main square. €15. There are not many here which is great, as the bathroom facilities seem limited, but what there is is very good. I seem to be the only woman so I have a luxury shower room to myself. That will probably change for night two.

I hobbled to the cathedral for a stamp for my credencial. I bought some more pain relief cream which seems to have no effect and will try to buy some kinesiology tape tomorrow. If I didn’t have a homeward flight already booked I would probably think about going home early. As it is, I hope to be able to walk to Melide where the Primitivo meets the Frances – 1.5 stages. I will stay in Melide overnight to have a look around as I have only passed straight through before. Then (as was always my intention) jump on a bus to Santiago. I had originally planned to walk the three days to Finisterre but now I will stay two days in Santiago and then move to A Coruña for a couple of nights before jumping on a short Volotea flight to Bilbao and back to Bristol from there.

So, for the moment, it is…

hip = 10/10

Knee and foot – could do a great deal better!

About magwood

Trepidatious Traveller - camino blog is about preparing for and walking the Camino de Santiago. Many future pilgrims have found the blog useful and inspiring, and many who have no plans to walk the camino have simply enjoyed the dialogue
This entry was posted in Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Camino del Norte, Camino Primitivo. Bookmark the permalink.

7 Responses to Camino Primitivo, O Cádavo to Lugo 32 km

  1. Dave says:

    LOL! Nothing like embracing the sounds and smells of an albergue at night on a camino. You’ll look back and larrrfffff. Sleep depreciation is a killer though. Nothing makes things look worse than when you’ve had no proper sleep. Sounds like the finishing line is looming. Well done. The body did good. Amazing, that new hip. It makes me not so worried, as I know it’s gonna happen.


  2. Ingrid Folkers says:

    What a shame your knee and foot are giving you such trouble, but so happy your hip is tops.
    Personally I don’t find Melide that interesting, Lugo I liked a lot, especially the walk on top the city wall….hopefully you can do it with minimal discomfort. Ultreia!


  3. sixwheeler says:

    As one of life’s great snorers I apologise on behalf of us all but our snoring group would always try to find a remote spot in the alpine huts; talking and making a racket though is unforgivable. You’re right about eucalyptus and in addition they’re a fire hazard with their sap and they do tend to explode. Take care.


  4. Judy says:

    I have really enjoyed going virtually on this journey with you. Thank you! 🙏 Your photos and writing are wonderful. Except for a medical issue that came up for me, my husband and I would have walked the Camino del Norte when you did, so reading your blog was the next best thing. BTW we stayed at the Puciña Muñiz in 2019 and it was the best albergue we ever stayed at. Definitely we’d give it a 10 out of 10 rating.


  5. memismsblogs says:

    I agree with sixwheeler, the only thing that helps me with snorers is a good pair of foam earplugs. They usually give me a good rest but the talking, rustling, banging, smell, etc is unacceptable. If only they allowed bear spray in Spain. 😀 Keep plugging at it and enjoy Lugo.


  6. Tony Rice says:

    Well that was a scathing albergue review. 5 star review resulting in a minus 5 star review.
    You would make a great Chief Petty Officer in any Navy. 🤣


  7. luca y ivonne says:

    ciao MAG .Siamo LUCA y IVONNE da Milano. Sei la nostra apri pista per molti cammini. Ci dispiace per il tuo ginocchio. Noi riprendiamo a giugno la ruta de lana da siguenza a burgos. Era il 2019 e ti abbiamo seguito da alicante a siguenza. CIAO


I would love some feedback - tell me what you think.....

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.