Camino Primitivo, A Fonsagrada to O Cádavo 25 km

Yesterday the number of views on my blog tripped over 900,000. I find it unbelievable that it has reached this number. Thank you all for taking the time to visit.

And a huge thank you to everyone who goes to the trouble of making a comment. This is so much appreciated – and I delight in every one. I’m just sorry that I can’t find the time to respond to them all. It takes a long time to prepare the blog each evening and I have no head space left for responses, except the few that ask specific questions.

I had a comment relating to taking a taxi the other day…

If you felt uncomfortable taking a taxi (and I understand it completely), why not having walked a short and relatively easy stage from Campiello to Pola de Allande or Peñaseita? There are 4 albergues there nowadays. Seems like you skipped the best part of Primitivo with a taxi. Kind of sad

In response I just want to reiterate that I have walked the Hospitales route before in beautiful weather and it was absolutely stunning. I thought long and hard about how to manage this stage with an injured knee. The Pola de Allende route is even harder on the knees (with unforgiving descent) than the Hospitales route. And there is also an unremitting descent on the following stage down to the reservoir. The lovely Dutch pilgrim we shared our taxi with is a nurse and she commented that I will want my knee to support me for at least another twenty years and I do not need to abuse it in the meantime. So, taking all the circumstances into account I am happy with the decision we took and I hope that I can begin to walk slightly longer stages from here on.

As I have already stated in previous posts, this was never going to be a camino as I have walked in the past. I have previously always started at the perceived beginning of a route and walked every stage until the end, and often beyond. This trip was intended to test my new hip, and my stamina after three years of relative idleness. I didn’t start at the beginning and I’m not finishing at the end and so it doesn’t really matter what happens in between. But, most importantly, I have learned the lesson that I should have invested that enormous sum of money for bespoke orthotics, which may well have resulted in a pain-free experience this year.

So, on to today…It starts cold and very cloudy and dull. There is a mixture of quiet roads, busy roads and tracks to start the day. But soon enough we are on track through farmland which is most pleasant, except the loud voices of the four men who are walking behind me. They are virtually shouting to eachother and I find it takes me entirely out of the zone where I wish to be. This is exactly what I don’t want early in the morning walking in nature. So I stand aside and let them pass so that I can walk in peace again.

As I have already written, there are many more pilgrims on this route than I have experienced before. Lots of Spanish, French, Germans, Dutch, Austrian, Australian, North American, and a few Brits. There are probably many other nationalities that I haven’t yet discovered. The proportion of men to women is high, as usual, and there are quite a few couples.

There is a bit of light rain early on and I stop at a bar at around 12 km that is full of slightly soggy walkers. There’s another donativo cafe at 16 km and another opportunity a couple of kms further on.

The tracks are mostly beautiful through woodland, following the ridge of a steep valley. There have been some ridiculously steep climbs. My eyes constantly lie to me, telling me that the incline finishes at the next bend, or just a few metres ahead and my body so wants to believe my eyes, but it is almost never true. However I made it to the top in one piece.

The paths have been lovely to walk on – the recent rain has made them soft without, for the most part, making them muddy. The views over the valleys are marvellous revealing wide vistas of pine trees and green fields all topped off with threatening cloud. The sun hasn’t put in an appearance so far today and it is currently noon.

And about 12.05 it starts raining quite hard accompanied by a drop in temperature which makes it quite cold. I could even see my breath for a while!

After yet more steep climbs I finally descend into O Cádavo, my stage end for today. Not the most exciting or interesting town, but most small towns seem a bit sad in the rain. There is an abundance of albergues. Paul and I are staying in the municipal albergue, €8, reasonable kitchen, and sensible separate bathroom facilities, but very few power points. I find myself sleeping between two of the noisy men that I tried to avoid this morning, in a room for 10 where I am the only woman. Wonderful!

About magwood

Trepidatious Traveller - camino blog is about preparing for and walking the Camino de Santiago. Many future pilgrims have found the blog useful and inspiring, and many who have no plans to walk the camino have simply enjoyed the dialogue
This entry was posted in Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Camino del Norte, Camino Primitivo. Bookmark the permalink.

10 Responses to Camino Primitivo, A Fonsagrada to O Cádavo 25 km


    Oh Magwood I am surprised it is only 900,000…..your pictures are beautiful and the way you have with words on paper bring us with you. Thank you for taking the time to include every little detail on your posts. At times I want to ask you if I can join you next time you do another walk and then I think of my knee that “let’s me know” when she has had enough!!! I did the Portugeese way 5 years ago and being my first time I followed those arrows to the end. You seem to know other routes and that makes El Camino even more interesting……… seem flexible when things don’t go as planned and grateful when they do. A true pilgrim……….Buen Camino from Florida……

    Liked by 1 person

  2. Nina says:

    You need not explain why you take a taxi and skip part of a stage. You are the Queen of Camino walking!

    900,000! Congrats. Wish I could send you a bottle of Champagne.
    Thank you for taking your time to share your adventures with us.

    Sleep tight 🙂


  3. Congratulations on your 900,000 followers. You deserve all of them. Your blog is super well done, your photos are amazing. You capture so much of the essence of those caminos. Thank you for that. I hope you knee is following without too much pain.🤞🎉🙌


  4. Heather Coffin says:

    Bravo again my friend.
    It seems I am not the only one who enjoys reading your blog!!!!
    I look forward to seeing how your day has been. Hoping your knee holds out and you get a good nights sleep.
    Love Heather


  5. Dave says:

    Well done. Keep on rockin’. Hope the weather improves…



    I read your blog every night – it feels like accompanying you! I am full of admiration all the time!


  7. Thank you for taking me with you. I love your writing and your photos.


  8. Pat says:

    Was so excited to see you doing another Camino as your posts are really entertaining and informative. This was to be our next Camino when covid hit and now that we’re that much older it’s nice to see it can be done without walking the kms set out in the recommended stages. I think you’ve got it right, taking your time and walking when you want is the way to enjoy the experience. After doing a few Caminos, it’s not the stamps or the end that matters, it’s what’s in between. Buen Camino!


  9. M3 Mary says:

    Congratulations on 900.000 views Maggie but it doesn’t surprise me either. Your writing is beautiful and your photos are even better. You are a wonderful woman and I have nothing but admiration for you. I look forward to your blog every morning. Much love xx


  10. OzAnnie says:

    Hi Maggie
    Whilst in Spain, I haven’t been ‘in the zone ‘ to read the lovely blogs I so enjoy being immersed in at home.
    Good for you., that you are doing ‘what is necessary’ to continue this walk (heavenly as the pics are disclosing ).. being sensible in regard to the need to avoid overworking that hip /and body which could take away your ability to enjoy walking in general over the next 20 years.
    I am impressed that you are weighing in with the best of them and sleeping in albergues and sometimes getting your night music for free (snorers).

    Well done and buen camino.


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