Camino Mozárabe stage 17, Córdoba – Cerro Mariano 19 km

Today’s distance 19 km
Elevation gain 468 m
Elevation loss 59 m
Total distance from Almería 412 km

I had covered about 1.5 km before I realised I hadn’t started to record my walk which explains the difference between the profile above and the stated distance.

The signage out of Córdoba is by means of high level fairly discrete plaques, but they were frequent and adequate. We walk around 4 km before leaving the city limits, and it is much more pleasant leaving that it was arriving. We are almost immediately in beautiful countryside and the wild flowers are spotted with bubbles of morning dew – the first I have seen on this camino and a perfect opportunity for playing with my camera.

In contrast to yesterday’s terrific wind, it is very still today and although it starts quite cold, as soon as we are out of the shadows of the tall city buildings the sun soon warms us.

I made this walk three years ago and it is just as beautiful as I remembered it, but I didn’t remember that there was so much elevation.

At about 7.5 km we pass through the very odd suburb of Torreblanca an area of hundreds or probably thousands of affluent properties but with no sign of life. No one walking around and no obvious facilities. But soon after we are in beautiful woodland with abundant wild flowers, lavender, rock roses, gorse, margaritas – a riot of colour amongst the rocky trail. All three of the common oaks, gnarly old holm, holly and cork and some towering pine trees

Soon enough our short stage is coming to an end and we pop into the large restaurant at the entrance to Cerro Muriano. I order a plate of grilled asparagus and share a dish of fried potatoes – all very tasty.

Four of us are staying at the guest house Santa Maria del Trabajo. It is a massive property that is used to raise funds for the unemployed. Although the property is very grand the decor is rather dated. There is a large garden that would be lovely in warmer weather and a swimming pool that is available in the warmer months. I thought it was rather expensive – we are sharing a room with bathroom, one bunk and two singles, 22.75 euros each. All other accommodation in the town is full.

While we wait for our room to be readied we go to investigate the old copper mines that this town is known for.

Everything is working well, no foot problems (oh how I hate to say that – tempting fate). After a while of indecision I am liking my toe socks, even though one developed a hole already. Luckily it’s on top of my big toe nail so I have stitched it up and it shouldn’t cause any discomfort there. I am thoroughly used to my pack and it’s heavy weight. I used my umbrella again today when it rained just before the end of the stage, but I’m still not sure it’s worth the extra weight.

Vegan diet isn’t causing too many issues except that I am finding it more expensive to eat this way in restaurants. There is nothing except salad on the menu and although people are very kind and find me something I can eat, it does tend to come at a premium. If I can cook for myself and if there are appropriate supplies in the shops I can eat for a pittance, but sadly I haven’t been able to do that for quite a while.

Two of us are still quite poorly but both managed to walk today.

About magwood

Trepidatious Traveller - camino blog is about preparing for and walking the Camino de Santiago. Many future pilgrims have found the blog useful and inspiring, and many who have no plans to walk the camino have simply enjoyed the dialogue
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5 Responses to Camino Mozárabe stage 17, Córdoba – Cerro Mariano 19 km

  1. Alan says:

    Good read and grand pics Maggie. Yes the toes socks can suffer from wear like that. Mine was caused by a little ridge on my Brooks trainers I used on our last walk. Oh it’s quite ridiculous that a meal with no meat is more expensive than one with meat/chicken/pork etc. In Santiago Casa Manalo did us a wonderful salad with Sietan burgers. Stay healthy.x


  2. Cathy Platin says:

    What lovely photos Maggie! It seems that the day was a good one. Espero que tu sientas mejor cada día…que tenga un día muy buena mañana…


  3. M3 Mary says:

    Sorry to hear two of the group are ill Maggie and I hope them make a quick recovery. Your photos are gorgeous as ever. Love the dew bubbles. Your accommodation looks like it may have been a former convent? Do you know? I’m loving this Camino. Much love and buen camino xxx


  4. gracethepilgrim says:

    Ooh yes, I am loving this camino as well, Maggie. As always your botanical photos are marvellous. Thanks for taking to time to record these wonders…buen camino


  5. Katherine Paterson says:

    Fabulous photos today Maggie.
    Hope you took your own protein, oh yes, the peanut butter powder 🙂 🙂


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