Camino Mozárabe stage 22, Monterrubio de la Serena to Castuera 19 km

Today’s distance 19 km
Elevation gain 123 m
Elevation loss 166 m
Total distance from Almería 544 km

To have a private room with all the facilities of a well planned albergue is indeed a privilege. Normally in private accommodation there are no facilities – nowhere to wash or hang your clothes, nowhere to prepare or cook food.

If you are walking this route you will find that there is not much signage once you leave the town. The main road out has been recently resurfaced with shiny new asphalt and maybe some marks have been lost. But be aware. you need to take the right fork shortly after leaving town onto a minor road. There is a granite marker at the entrance to this side road but at the time of speaking no arrows to indicate the way.

The majority of today’s walk was on this very quiet road with no shoulder at all but also with very little traffic on a Saturday morning, other than an occasional tractor (no more tractor jokes!). We are back walking between olive groves for a few km and then progressing to crop fields studded with oaks.

For the last few stages there have been seven of us walking the same distances. Two French guys, Margaret from Australia and we four. Today I am pleased to be walking on the road. My left foot has been giving me a little discomfort for a couple of days – I think I must have twisted it whilst walking on stony ground and I probably have a bit of a strain. Marilyn immediately delved into her ‘Mary Poppins bag of everything you could ever need’ and generously gave me a medicated pad which certainly helped get me walking straight, with further assistance from a painkiller.

Nina and I took a rest at 12 km by a pond and again we spied some turtles sunning themselves on the bank.

The colours and profusion of the flowers in the fields are spectacular, the red of the poppies, white daisies, the sunniest yellow sea asters, and purple of the hemp broomrape – I have so many photos, but still feel the urge to take more. We have also passed many new plantings of olive groves, so there must be good money to be made from them.

At around 14 km the road turns into a wide sandy track so we had a little relief from walking on the road although to be honest I’m not sorry it has been a day of flat even walking because it made for an easier passage for my poorly foot.

At 17.5 km we join with the road that leads into Castuera and this lively town has thrown a party for us. El Dia del Queso. There are street bars, a stage with huge speakers, ladies dressed up in their best parading outfits and children in dance costumes. Lots of tents surround the church square all offering tastings of the local cheese.

We are informed that the Policia Local, with whom we have to register and pick up the key to the albergue, are busy on fiesta duty and cannot attend to us until whenever they feel like it. It is no great hardship to take a seat at a bar and drink a couple of beers whilst we wait.

The albergue here is superb. The pinnacle of albergue design. Two large rooms each with two sets of bunks, a substantial kitchen and dining area, and two state of the art bathrooms, add to the mix two separate terrace areas and we are in pilgrim heaven.

As we are five peregrinas and only two hombres, we ladies opt to take one room and remove the top bunk mattresses to the floor – none of us needs to climb up to a top bunk if it isn’t necessary. We bring a fifth mattress from the other room and so we are three on the floor and two on bottom bunks – lucky it’s a big room! Contact Policia Local 0034 924 772 350, 8 euros including sheets and quilt. Thank you Castuera.

I have taken advantage of the facilities and cooked up a pot of chickpea/spinach goodness (much nicer than it sounds) and the others are working on a pasta dish. I’m not sure how I will cope with food in the coming days so wanted to make sure I fuelled up tonight.

Tomorrow we depart from the camino Mozárabe as it is best known, and are taking the variant through Trujillo – a very little walked route, and it will be good to cover some new ground after retracing my steps for a week or so.

A new adventure awaits…

About magwood

Trepidatious Traveller - camino blog is about preparing for and walking the Camino de Santiago. Many future pilgrims have found the blog useful and inspiring, and many who have no plans to walk the camino have simply enjoyed the dialogue
This entry was posted in Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Camino Mozárabe from Almeria and tagged , , , , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

7 Responses to Camino Mozárabe stage 22, Monterrubio de la Serena to Castuera 19 km

  1. Stewpot says:

    Hi Maggie
    The field full of poppies, daisies and sea asters must have filled your hearts with joy. What a gem of a photograph. We are so enjoying your trip. Go well ladies

    Liked by 1 person

  2. wildscotland says:

    Hi Maggie Would you mind if I promoted you on the Camino del Santiago forum? I could say that you are walking the Camino and after the Camino, why not the North Highland Way.

    Also I could blog on Letsgonorth that you are doing the Camino.. maybe we could get a mention on your blogs sometime – especially if the scenery is similar to Scotland. Which it is in the North

    We are already linked on the LetsGoSouth page under Competa.

    Kind regards


    On Sat, 5 May 2018, 19:22 Trepidatious traveller – camino blog, wrote:

    > magwood posted: ” Today’s distance 19 km Elevation gain 123 m Elevation > loss 166 m Total distance from Almería 544 km To have a private room with > all the facilities of a well planned albergue is indeed a privilege. > Normally in private accommodation there are no f” >


  3. OUTSTANDING Photos!!! Just a Beautiful blog….I’m along with you all the way! Thanks for the memories!!!

    Liked by 1 person

  4. Pia McInerney says:

    Looking forward to reading about your Trujillo variant. Buen Camino!


  5. Conchy says:

    Thanks for your blog. Reading it I feel like I am walking with you. It has happened with all your camino blogs. Being 83 and not in the best health, I will never walk the Camino. So i am doubly thankful. How did you cook your garbanzos and espinaca dish? It looks wonderful! Hope your foot gets better.


  6. M3 Mary says:

    Another great day Maggie. Loved the look of your dinner. Your albergue tonight looks brilliant. I also feel as though I’m walking with you and enjoying all the flowers and trees etc. Very thoughtful of the town to have a fiesta for your arrival. I love cheese. Hope your foot stops hurting. Much love and buen camino xx


  7. ingridfolkers says:

    Loving the flowers….healing send your way for your foot. Light and Love Ingrid

    Liked by 1 person

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