Being s pilgrim on the Camino de Santiago is a funny old business. Especially on this less travelled path. Each day when we arrive at our destination, we have no idea if the information we have is correct and whether we will find albergue accommodation, and if we do, what it will be like. The camino has provided very well for us so far with adequate, if ‘interesting’ accommodation. Yesterday was the exception, but today has turned up trumps.
We were a little creative with our exit from Lucena this morning as the young woman in the tourist office had told us of a route that would save us backtracking, so we joined the ‘Via Verde” a kilometre or so closer to our destination. The Via Verde is a paved track created where there was once a railway line.
That will be easy, I thought – it must be flat and it runs all the way to our destination. Well, I think George found it less of a challenge than the steep elevations we have encountered thus far, but after the initial pleasure at walking on a flat, paved path I soon found that this track didn’t suit me at all. With no change in elevation my feet were in the same position all day and I found it very wearing. And I quickly grew tired, so I called upon the magic of music, The Archers and Frank Skinner to keep my mind off the tedium and put a bit of a spring in my step.
We stopped at the half way point (13 km) at the old station building at Cabra, now a cafe, and I ordered my coffee and surreptitiously ate some of my supplies (dried apricots and nuts) while G tucked into half a bagette’s worth of toast, butter and jam. And then we set back off for more of the same. There were lots of people using the track for walking, running and cycling. A couple of old guys stopped to talk and I had my hand kissed in recognition of my task.
Today has been sunny and dry with some cloud. Some of the walk was alongside high banks which provided some shade, but for the most part there was no shade and just that interminable monotonous asphalt track. There were some pretty flowers growing alongside though, so I have some nice pictures for you today.
We arrived at our destination of Doña Mencía after ?? Km and stopped off at the first bar we came across for an ice cool fanta. The waiter then bought out a couple of tapas, each one a small filleted battered fish (minus head) on s slice of bread. George turned his nose up, so I once again enjoyed double helpings of these absolutely delicious morsels. I’m doing very well out of travelling with a fussy eater!
Our info told us that the keys were held by the Policia Local. We enquired at the townhall and were told to wait for twenty minutes for someone to turn up. We waited at least thirty minutes and went back to check and were told to wait ten minutes. But this time a phone call had been made and said policeman turned up within the allocated time and opened up his office in order to copy our passports and stamp our credencials. He then led us (him driving, us walking) to our home for the night. And it is actually a home – a tiny little house, with small reception area and bathroom on the ground floor, bedroom with two beds on first floor and an attic room with another bed. It even has a washing machine, so all my walking clothes have been piled in for s thorough wash at last and they are now on an aired in the sunshine outside the front door.
Doña Mencía is a good sized town with some nice period buildings. It seems very friendly. Caracoles (snails) seem to be the local delicacy here – everyone surrounding us is tucking in – not the sizeable ones I have eaten in France, but tiny shells sold in half pint mugs – one local tradition I shan’t be trying.
Distance according to wikiloc (my own recording) 27 km, mapmywalk 29 km. Fitbit recorded steps 35,701
Accumulated elevation uphill 179 metres
Accumulated elevation downhill 72 metres
Total distance walked 158 km
Today’s spend – coffee 1€, fanta 1.5€, winex2 2€, supermarket shop fruit, salad and replenishment of nuts 7.2€, albergue donation 5€ = 16.7€
Six days total spend 135.4€
Trepidatious traveller - camino blog 
Well done Maggie even though today was hard on your feet! Cute little Albergue as well.
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Ay, the andaluces love their caracoles. I try to keep an open mind about food, but I can’t with caracoles, unless it’s the pastry.
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I wish I was a fly on your backpack, enjoying all the flowers…
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I’m learning so much from you Maggie – right down to the dried fruit and nuts (I think those are great snacks to have along and they wouldn’t weight too much either).
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I had no idea walking on straight and even pavement all day would be hard. Your poor feet. Lovely flowers. Gorgeous day for walking, and freshened laundry. Are you sure you’re eating enough? Forward and onward. Another day will dawn soon and maybe the walk will be easier. ❤
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It was a Sunday when I walked the Via Verde and it was very popular with cyclists and people gathering snails. There was no café at Cabra but excellent spring water at the station in Dona Mencia. Once again no pilgrim accommodation so I stayed at Hostal Casa Morejon which gave me a massive pilgrim discount.
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AJ, your camino must have cost you a lot more than mine – I am trying to stick to a low budget and private accommodation would soon demolish that.
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Here in the colonys they’re converting old senic rail road routes and turning them into bike/walking trails. No black top just the old rail beds. The one of note here is called the Biz Johnson trail. 28 miles long and no roads. Several tunnels and bridges alongside the Susan river.
Your Camino is, to me, very unique . Love your observations and photos. March on Maggie 👣👣👣
Happy Trails
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Thank you Tony, I really appreciate your comments and support. I would have preferred a sandy track to a ‘blacktop’ one.
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Can I ask, Maggie, what device you are wearing/carrying that records all the data you include daily? Also are you carrying a solar powered charger? By the way, snails (des escargots) are delicious!!
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Well done Maggie on another hard day. Are you sure you are eating enough? It must be a delight to get some clothes washed and dried. It’s the little things that make us happy isn’t it.
Buen camino
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Lovely pictures Maggie
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Hi Magwood,
Great to walk up each morning to read your Blog and see your beautiful pictures. Very relaxing and easier than walking.
Keep up the good work.
Sean
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Maggie I am so impressed with your daily milage! Very impressive! I would love to know what kind or brand of hydration you use. I would love to know more about it.
Buen Camino!
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Hi Cheri, I am writing a separate post answering questions. Hopefully will post this evening.
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Thanks for your pic showing how you set up your drink bottle. Clever! I don’t like the bladder either and prefer bottles but difficult to grab them from side pockets. I’m off myself on the Salvador /primitivo and I’m going to try your set up
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I am so pleased with it annie. I sm drinking so much more than with others systems. I will make more comments in a separate post.
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How long is the tunnel in the picture? I like walking along old railway lines.
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If I remember rightly there were two tunnels, one quite long and rather dark for a while. It was a lovely day, but a bit too flat for my liking.
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