I awoke with no aches today. My knee had behaved yesterday but my right hip was a bit uncomfortable. Nothing a couple of painkillers could not deal with. Today though I decided to go drug-free. In addition I had not taped my feet for a couple of days. I have a couple of small blisters but not requiring any attention.
It was raining steadily when we left the albergue and we immediately met with the final section of our big climb. A short while after leaving we came across the marker showing that we were leaving Castilla y Leon and entering Galicia. We have been walking through Castilla y Leon for 15 days, since leaving La Rioja on day 9.
At the top of the hill we came to the beautiful stone village of O Cebreiro, which we thought was the highest point of the camino. But guess what? Yes, that’s right, we were still climbing when we left the village.
I think the scene below was taken pretty much from the highest point (…….so far!)
We passed through some fabulous hamlets again today. The roof slates in this pic are typical of the area and very pretty.
And then the mist came down, and then it got thicker.
But eventually it brightened and stopped raining but by now the path as extremely muddy and we had to wade through deep sludgy puddles. I was convinced my socks were wet which makes for perfect blister making conditions. So I stopped to change my socks, only to find that they were perfectly dry. Most peculiar.
I had to pop a painkiller towards the end of the walk as my knee clicked on a downhill stretch. But generally I have performed well enough.
We passed through the village of Triacastela and continued for a further 1.5 km to reach an albergue that had been recommended to us by Peter, our Dutch friend with whom we walked for the first few days. It is a beautiful stone building lovingly restored by the Italian/Dutch couple who opened it only a few weeks ago. There are only ten beds in a huge room. There should be no problems with the room getting stuffy at night because there is an abundance of natural air conditioning around the windows and door! It is situated in a chestnut wood with ancient trees, this one estimated to be 800 years old.
Our hosts provide a communal dinner from organic ingredients for which we are invited to make a donation. I am currently sitting in front of the pretty wood burner trying to warm up as it is rather chilly in here. I shall have to brave the shower in a moment – we are asked to use the provided ecological products. Apparently the shower is lovely and hot, but I will have to pile on the clothes when I get out.
Galicia hay!! In the right county then. well done. galloping on at a pace now? today’s pictures look like something out of a hobbit village.
Nearing the end Maggie.
What an adventure!
Hope yours and Ellie’s feet are ok.
Very well done
Kim & Phil
Do you remmember the name of the albergue in Triacstela?
Hello Emanuel. The albergue is called ‘el beso’ – ‘the kiss’. It had only been open a few days when I stayed there last year. You will be made very welcome. See their Facebook page for contact details and directions. https://www.facebook.com/albergue.ecologico.el.beso/info
I was very thirsty when passed that rock with water flowing down on it. Obviously there was no sign of “agua potatble” around, but I at that moment I thought that dehydratation is worse than diarrhea :-).
I guess free-flowing mountain water is usually ok to drink. What time of year were you walking?
Very helpful blog!!! And thank you also for the packing list! Having walked the Camino de Santiago, I am getting ready for the Via Francigena in Italy. I am walking from Tuscany into Rome.
How many km’s is that Susan? I imagine it will be beautiful. I am thinking about the Mozarabe from Málaga next year, but maybe not all in one go. Buen camino (what is it in Italian?)